North American Fruit Explorers mailing list at ibiblio

["Erdman, James" <ErdmanJ@uwstout.edu>]

I originally sent this question to Dennis, but it came back as undeliverable, 
so I am sending it to the entire list.
Am I just confused or IS the table wrong?
Thanks.
 
Jim Erdman, in Menomonie, WI

________________________________

From: Erdman, James
Sent: Wed 5/2/2007 11:46 AM
To: dmnorton@royaloakfarmorchard.com
Subject: RE: [NAFEX] pH question


Dennis 
Thanks for the interesting article.  But it appears that the table showing 
amounts of sulfur to lower the pH is the same as the other table showing 
limestone to raise pH.  Do you have the proper table available?
Thanks.
 
Jim Erdman in Menomonie, WI

________________________________

From: nafex-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org on behalf of 
dmnorton@royaloakfarmorchard.com
Sent: Wed 5/2/2007 7:05 AM
To: North American Fruit Explorers
Subject: Re: [NAFEX] pH question


Options to lower soil ph include sphagnum peat, elemental sulfur, aluminum 
sulfate, iron sulfate, acidifying nitrogen, or organic mulches. Below is an 
article I had on hand that may help:
 

An excellent way to lower the pH of small beds or garden areas is the 
addition of sphagnum peat. (The pH of Canadian sphagnum peat generally ranges 
from 3.0 to 4.5.) Sphagnum peat is also a good source of organic matter. On 
small garden plots, add a one to two inch layer of sphagnum peat and work it 
into the top 8 to 12 inches of soil before planting. The addition of sphagnum 
peat to large areas would be cost prohibitive. 

Granular sulfur is the safest, least expensive but slowest acting product to 
use when attempting to lower your soil's pH. The table below shows the pounds 
of sulfur needed per 100 square feet to lower the pH to 6.0 in the top 6 
inches of soil. 

Soil pH  Sandy Loam      Loam    Clay loam      
5.0      8       10      15     
5.5      6       8       10     
6.0      3       4       6      

To avoid plant injury, don't exceed 2 pounds of sulfur per 100 square feet 
per application. Wait at least 3 months to make another application. 

Aluminum sulfate and iron sulfate react more quickly with the soil than 
elemental sulfur. However, aluminum sulfate and iron sulfate must be applied 
at a 5 to 6 times greater rate. Do not apply more than 5 pounds per 100 
square feet of aluminum or iron sulfate at any one time. Excessive amounts of 
these two sulfates can also injure plants. 

Some types of fertilizers can help to acidify the soil and most of them are 
safe to apply. Acidifying fertilizers include ammonium sulfate, diammonium 
phosphate, monoammonium phosphate, urea, and ammonium nitrate. Read the label 
on the fertilizer bag to determine if it is an acidifying fertilizer. 

Research suggests that wood chips as a surface mulch may actually allow 
greater nutrient absorption by some trees. Spread a layer about three inches 
thick at least out to the dripline. Each spring add more mulch to keep the 
depth at about three inches. 

If the pH of your soil is greater than 7.5, then the soil may contain a large 
amount of free calcium carbonate. This compound strongly resists changes in 
soil pH. Lowering the pH becomes difficult or impractical on soils that have 
a pH above 7.5. 

The pH of highly acidic soils can be raised by incorporating limestone into 
the soil. Hydrated lime works quicker, but over liming is more likely. The 
table below shows pounds of ground limestone needed per 100 square feet to 
raise the pH to 6.5 in the top 6 inches of soil. 

Soil pH  Sandy loam      Loam    Clay loam      
5.0      8       10      15     
5.5      6       8       10     
6.0      3       4       6      

 

Wood ash will also raise the soil pH and make the soil more alkaline. Do not 
apply wood ash, limestone, hydrated lime, or other liming materials to 
alkaline soils. 

Modifying a soil's pH is usually a slow process and may require repeat 
treatments. It is often most effective to use a combination of treatments. 
However, don't expect a quick fix or a miracle cure. 

This article originally appeared in the April 6, 1994 issue, pp. 1994 issue, 
pp. 42-43. 
________________________________


Prepared by Eldon Everhart <http://www.hort.iastate.edu/> , Department of 
Horticulture <http://www.hort.iastate.edu/> 
Iowa State University <http://www.iastate.edu/> , Ames, Iowa. 
        

Dennis Norton
Royal Oak Farm Orchard
http://www.royaloakfarmorchard.com <http://www.royaloakfarmorchard.com/> 
http://www.theorchardkeeper.blogspot.com 
<http://www.theorchardkeeper.blogspot.com/> 
http://www.revivalhymn.com <http://www.revivalhymn.com/> 

        ----- Original Message ----- 
        From: Jerrydana5@aol.com 
        To: nafex@lists.ibiblio.org 
        Sent: Tuesday, May 01, 2007 1:43 PM
        Subject: [NAFEX] pH question

        
        I have put a lot of horse manure on my garden spot, with the result 
that it is very fertile, but the pH is too high, due to (I was told) the 
amount of horse urine, which produced Ammonium hydroxide, which raised the pH 
too much.  Besides sulfur any suggestions for what to put on it?  I know pine 
needles is a possibility.  How about chicken manure, since I suddenly have a 
source of some?  How long should it be composted before spreading?  Jerry in 
southern Indiana



        
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