I looked at the article. Now they are looking for a pathogen. Just
like in Mad Cow disease - which has since been shown to be related to
types of pesticides and copper/manganese. I wonder why none of the
German/Japanese research that found a potential link to GM pollen is
cited? Is it that American Universities are so dependent upon funds
from GM purveyors that they dare not "go there"? I expect the Japanese
research will be declaimed as "bad science", just like all the initial
studies on Mad Cow that did not look for a pathogen.
I get tired of industry-funded "spin-science". If you want to know why
I feel this way, I recently watched "The Future of Food".
A little cynical today, but improving,
Barbara Rosholdt
Z7
There's a good article in today's New York Times about the bee
situation, so I thought I'd just post the link, in case anyone's
interested:
http://www.nytimes.com/2007/04/24/science/24bees.html
Bill
Lincoln, NE
We use the Watchdog Wireless Crop Monitor from Spectrum Technologies
(http://www.specmeters.com) along with the SpecLog and Specware
software.
Specware is the data logging, Report and Alarm Management software that
includes T/RH Hours, Daily Light Interval, DIF Temperature, Degree days
and
summary reports. Specware (Spec 8 Pro) is the Disease and Insect Model
software that works with Spec Log. Pricing is:
Watchdog Monitor Temperature System is $395
Watchdog Monitor Temperature/RH System is $445.
Leaf Wetness External Sensor is $89.
Radiation Shield (Required) is $75.
SpecLog is $199.
Spec 8 Pro is $274
Disease and Insect Models for Apple/Pear is $349.
If you just want Degree Days you can get by with the Monitor w/shield
and
SpecLog for less than $700. We have used the wireless monitor for 2
years
now with great results. The monitor transmits data up to 1,000 feet to
a
base unit(included) which hooks up to your computer via serial/USB
cable
which is around $25. Prior to the wireless model we used a WatchDog
data
logger for about 10 years. The wireles monitor is only about $50 more
and
well worth it. It saves you from having to take your laptop out into
the
field and download the data to your laptop manually. If you have any
questions, feel free to contact me.
Dennis Norton
Royal Oak Farm Orchard
http://www.royaloakfarmorchard.com
http://www.theorchardkeeper.blogspot.com
http://www.revivalhymn.com
----- Original Message ----- From: <oowonbs@netscape.net>
To: <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
Sent: Monday, April 23, 2007 10:45 PM
Subject: [NAFEX] nafex: Weather Stations
I have an interest in Weather Stations.
On a 50x100, I have no desire (abiity) to spend thousands, but
have seen some by Davis, and by AWS/Weatherbug, that are less
than a thousand. I'd be interested in the brands and
"more than temp/rain measuring" abilities at you use.
Of great interest wouldbe computewr recording of data,
or ability to purchase "components" as I can and add them as uprades.
TIA,
BillSF9c (amateur)
My weather station
monitors the daily temps every 10 minutes, establishes the daily low
temp
and daily high temp from the date of biofix
forward, calculates the DD
(Degree Days), then uses the 50 degree DD base model to time sprays
for
the 1st and 2nd generations.
My codling moth program for this season is:
- - - snip - - -
100 DD..............................Place
traps in orchard
Dennis Norton
Royal Oak Farm Orchard
http://www.royaloakfarmorchard.com
http://www.theorchardkeeper.blogspot.com
http://www.revivalhymn.com
________________________________________________________________________
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Bill, take a look at
http://www.robertlyonsphotography.com/webcam/index.php
he uses a Davis Vantage Pro 2 -- I was thinking of setting up something similar
(although without the webcam).
Richard
Here in east Kansas it looked like the freeze
a couple weeks ago nulled any chance for fruit. Now it looks like we
could have some pears. Someone on the list mentioned plants can
re-bloom. It looks like that's what happened to the pears.
I'm glad to hear it. My Northstar cherry had just started to bloom when
the freeze hit, and it's blooming again, too (though not very many
blossoms this time).
Blackberries are re-foliating and sending up
new canes. Strawberries coming back. Our strawberries were hit much
worse than others in the area.
I don't have blackberries, but many of my black raspberry canes died.
Others, especially those closest to my garage, are sprouting new
leaves, and all of the roots are starting to send up new canes. My
strawberries are looking fine, but I'd covered them with straw.
Oddly enough, though, straw didn't help protect some things (currants
and one gooseberry), and might even have hurt. Most of these appeared
to come through the freeze just fine, but afterwards, the leaves and
young shoots started dying. This happened with my irises, too (which I
hadn't covered, since they aren't edible). They looked good right after
the freeze, but the leaves all slowly died in the week or so after
that.
Someone mentioned they had serious twig
dieback of persimmon because of the frost. Perhaps that's what's going
on with the persimmon and paw paw, as there is no new growth coming
back. The trees may be dead. They were pretty small.
Apricot foliage was damaged worse on the Hargrand (100% damage), but
it's putting out new foliage as are the japanese plums.
All of my fruit trees had 100%, or nearly so, foliage damage (they're
all pretty young), but my Japanese plums have come out of it the best
here, too. Of course, they hadn't sprouted out as much as the others,
either. My Asian pears still look the worst, but one of them is
sprouting out again.
You mentioned twig dieback. One problem I've noticed is that almost all
of the end buds (next to my pruning cuts) seem to be dead. At least,
there are very few trees where these have started sprouting new leaves,
even when the rest of the branch is greening up again. One branch on a
young peach tree even split lengthwise at the tip. Maybe the sap froze
and split it?
Should I re-prune these trees now, to cut off the dead stub? Or wait
and prune it off later, if it really is dead, either later this season
or with my normal dormant pruning next year? I'm still learning how to
prune. Though I've read a lot about it, I need experience. But if the
end buds on my pruned branches are dead, the next one is going to be on
the opposite side of the branch - exactly the opposite of where I'd
planned. So perhaps I should prune back even further, to a better
choice? Although, considering how bad my trees look, I suppose I
shouldn't stress them any further right now.
Advice, anyone?
Bill
Lincoln, NE (zone 5a)
I forgot to mention my Concord grapes, and I thought there might be
some interest.
I'd waited until late March to prune them, which was maybe a good
thing. But the huge buds were just starting to open when the freeze
hit. The pruning cuts were still gushing sap, so I had icicles hanging
from the ends of the branches. It didn't look good, but I couldn't tell
if the buds had died, since they were sort of yellowish-brown to begin
with. And they didn't show the slightest change for about three weeks.
But all of a sudden, my grapevines have started leafing out, so I guess
the buds weren't damaged after all. Well, maybe some of them were,
since not everything has sprouted yet, but my two vines are looking
surprisingly good right now. (I've got one Caco, too, and it's looking
OK. It hasn't started to leaf out yet, but the buds are swelling.) I'll
definitely delay pruning next year, too - probably on all my stuff.
Bill
Lincoln, NE (zone 5a)
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