North American Fruit Explorers mailing list at ibiblio

[athagan@atlantic.net]

I think those guidelines would be tough to draft.  Mostly it seems to
come from having planted too much and resolving not to do it again. 
>From the way the vegetable garden has grown and grown and grown this
year I haven't learned this lesson yet it seems.

I live on the Florida sand ridge and this is the time of year that we
go into our dry period until roughly June or so though the way this
Spring has gone maybe not.  I'm a long time member of the Church of
Stout so everything gets mulched here, even the citrus.  This cuts
way down on the amount of watering I have to do though if it's
something that I only recently planted I'll water it pretty often for
the first couple of months.  I use a fair amount of peat in the
planting holes as well to keep moisture around the roots while the
plant is establishing itself.  In a few years the peat disappears as
all organic material does in our sand, but by then the root system
has grown out and the permanent mulch keeps things moist and cool.

Now raking up all the necessary mulch every year takes considerable
time, but I get double duty out of it by raking it up from the areas
I'm trying to encourage better grass growth.

.....Alan.

> From: tanis grif <tanisgrif@yahoo.com>
> Subject: Re: [NAFEX] New member joining the list.
> 
> This got me thinking about watering/ irrigation.  Before last year,
> s.WI had some dyr summers in which we (especially the sandy soil 
> people) had to give supplimental water to everything planted in the
> previous 3 years!  This is a lot of irrigation if you've spent
every
> spare minute planting new stuff for 3 years! 
> Does anyone know of any guidelines for planning for not planting 
> more than can be taken care of, if conditions turn unfavorable?


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