North American Fruit Explorers mailing list at ibiblio

["Peter Knop" <knop@erols.com>]

Why not use a white masking tape?  Should last a year and then rots
off...Clear tape would lead to heat build up... As I will be doing my FIRST
grafting this year, all I can is say thanks for all the discussion .  Timing
has not been discussed with dates -  Just as the sap starts running for
tongue, whip, cleft, and maybe a few weeks later or  as long as active
growth?  That would put maple, for example, now in our area....
   Peter, Zone 7 Chantilly, N. VA
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Sent: Sunday, February 22, 2004 12:05 PM
Subject: nafex Digest, Vol 13, Issue 45


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> Today's Topics:
>
>    1. Re: Grafting (philip sauber)
>    2. Re: Grafting (Lon J. Rombough)
>    3. Re: grafting (Jwlehman@aol.com)
>    4. Rooting Osage-orange. (Jwlehman@aol.com)
>    5. Black locust & Alder.  (Jwlehman@aol.com)
>    6. Re: Grafting (Jwlehman@aol.com)
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Sun, 22 Feb 2004 09:56:13 -0600
> From: "philip sauber" <mrtejas@lycos.com>
> Subject: Re: [NAFEX] Grafting
> To: "North American Fruit Explorers" <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
> Message-ID: <OFAMELGNHGINBAAA@mailcity.com>
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>
> My 2 cents worth.  Buy a grafting knife from Womacksnursery.com for $15
and a rol of grafting tape for $1.50.  Practice.  Find someone experienced
and ask a lot of questions.  Try t-budding.
> Phil
>
> --
>
> --------- Original Message ---------
> DATE: Sun, 22 Feb 2004 06:05:34
> From: Jim F <bonfire58_2000@yahoo.com>
> To: nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
> Cc:
>
>
>      I'm responding to Skip from Michigan.
>      When I started grafting, I didn't know that special grafting tools
existed so I just used my pocket knife, or whatever knife was handy, and
black electrical tape to finish it.  ¾+ of my grafts take so I never did buy
any special grafting supplies.
>
> Jim Fruth
> Pequot Lakes, MN
>
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> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Sun, 22 Feb 2004 08:07:58 -0800
> From: "Lon J. Rombough" <lonrom@hevanet.com>
> Subject: Re: [NAFEX] Grafting
> To: "mrtejas@lycos.com, North American Fruit Explorers"
> <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
> Message-ID: <BC5E13DD.199EF%lonrom@hevanet.com>
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>
> If you are going to do budding, chip budding has one big advantage in that
> you can use it anytime the stock is active enough to heal the bud into
> place, even if the bark isn't slipping, the way it must be for t-budding.
> This allows you to bud almost into fall, which is a big help if you have a
> lot of trees to bud.  Also, the wound from chip budding is less invasive
and
> heals more readily with less oozing (depending on the species).  T-budding
> some Prunus will cause lots of gumming of the bud, while chip budding
> usually heals very cleanly.
> -Lon Rombough
>
> My 2 cents worth.  Buy a grafting knife from Womacksnursery.com for $15
and
> a rol of grafting tape for $1.50.  Practice.  Find someone experienced and
> ask a lot of questions.  Try t-budding.
>
>
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> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 3
> Date: Sun, 22 Feb 2004 11:27:34 EST
> From: Jwlehman@aol.com
> Subject: Re: [NAFEX] grafting
> To: nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
> Message-ID: <1c6.158d6b52.2d6a3276@aol.com>
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>
> Hello,
>
> I've been using the machine V cut grafter now about 10 years and
absolutely
> love it. I feel sure your problem is elsewhere, not the method. As Gordon
> suggested make sure your blades are clean. I do this simply by taking the
pruning
> shears and cutting off the rootstock a few inches above where I plan to
make
> the graft. I then take that piece to clean and moisten the blades by
making a
> few cuts through that discarded piece of rootstock. You now should have
brushed
> off so, to speak, material that could cause problems.
>
> Next about the fit. That V cut works so well you don't even have to have a
> perfect fit with soft material such as apple and even persimmon. Walnut
may be
> different. If the scion is undersized make sure one side matches the
cambium.
> Both sides do not need match perfectly. I've done many undersized
persimmon and
> apple V grafts with nearly the same success rate as when both sides fit.
> Remember the cleft graft is basically a V graft with only one side
matching and
> that method has been around for hundreds of years. (I think) When a tree
is
> injured the cambium grows together to close the wound. Likewise a graft
take is
> this healing process which heals, if you will, to the scion piece. Cut off
a 6
> inch limb at the main collar and it will heal across in a few years.
>
> It is my observation in a V graft the healing starts at the bottom of the
V
> and works itself up on the unmatched side and by the end of the summer it
will
> have nearly worked up to the top. I'd had some mismatches where one side
> didn't completely heal the first year and by the end of the second they
do. I
> believe it is better to have the scion undersized than over size which
would allow
> the scion to dry out. But with Parafilm drying out isn't a problem,
normally.
>
>
> Hardwoods such as walnut and hickory are more critical and my experience
> using the V grafter is limited on them. Yes, a perfect fit there is more
critical
> and timing even more critical. May I suggest the three most important
> considerations to successful grafting is timing, timing and timing?
>
> I'd submit your problem is not the grafter, but other details. Are you
> checking the condition of your wood before using it? If grafting hardwoods
is the
> rootstock bleeding? Again I always clean off the blades especially when
going
> from one species to another using the above mentioned method.
>
> When grafting Prunus cleanlines is more important due to virus
> considerations.
>
> The Indiana Nut Growers annual grafting demonstration meeting will be
again
> at Indianapolis this year on June 6. The Michigan Nut Growers also have
> meetings to teach grafting.
>
> Jerry Lehman
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> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 4
> Date: Sun, 22 Feb 2004 11:27:38 EST
> From: Jwlehman@aol.com
> Subject: [NAFEX] Rooting Osage-orange.
> To: nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
> Message-ID: <1ef.19ac2430.2d6a327a@aol.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
> Let me throw in my two cents worth on this subject. I too have winter cut
> Osage-orange for fence posts and placed them in the ground and they grow
limbs,
> but not root. They seem to be able to store a lot of growing energy. I
thought
> too they were rooting, but by late summer they die. This is in a low wet
area
> with a high water table and if they will root this would have been in my
> opinion a good place. The posts were about 8 to 10 inches in dia.
>
> Plant Propagation in Pictures by Montague Free says Osage-orange can be
> propagated by root cuttings but doesn't list it as propagatable by
cuttings taken
> above ground.
>
> But please try it.
>
> Jerry
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> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 5
> Date: Sun, 22 Feb 2004 11:27:39 EST
> From: Jwlehman@aol.com
> Subject: [NAFEX] Black locust & Alder.
> To: nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
> Message-ID: <105.3fbbc0eb.2d6a327b@aol.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
> In a message dated 2/21/2004 9:48:59 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
> machelp@attglobal.net writes:
>
> > Have you considered growing Alder?  Black Locust and Alder both offer
> > nitrogen fixing benefits.  I know Locust is considered hard and blade
dulling,
> > would alder be soft enough to work?
> > Charlie Paradise
>
> About 15 years ago the Indiana Nut Growers planted a seven acre nut
> experimental orchard. We planted Black Locust and European Alder as a
nurse crop. We
> are still trying to kill of the last of them. The root systems are very
hardy.
> I'm not saying don't do it, just be forewarned.
>
> Jerry
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> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 6
> Date: Sun, 22 Feb 2004 11:35:41 EST
> From: Jwlehman@aol.com
> Subject: Re: [NAFEX] Grafting
> To: nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
> Message-ID: <de.447c85c4.2d6a345d@aol.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
>
> In a message dated 2/22/2004 9:06:03 AM US Eastern Standard Time,
> bonfire58_2000@yahoo.com writes:
>
> >
> >     I'm responding to Skip from Michigan.
> >      When I started grafting, I didn't know that special grafting tools
> > existed so I just used my pocket knife, or whatever knife was handy, and
black
> > electrical tape to finish it.  ¾+ of my grafts take so I never did buy
any
> > special grafting supplies.
> >
> > Jim Fruth
> >  Pequot Lakes, MN
> >
>
> Jim is right. I use a cheap Stanley utility knife. When the blade gets
dull
> simply field replace.  I've used it for years. But I use white or yellow
> electrical tape as it doesn't get as hot in the sun.
>
> Jerry
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