North American Fruit Explorers mailing list at ibiblio

["tanis cuff" <tanistanis@hotmail.com>]

When I was learning & experimenting w/ grafting, I tried bench grafting and 
had 100% FAILURE, because of SEVERAL errors, I've since learned.  I found 
that my best success was to graft in May, even into early June, with dormant 
scion (stored in refrig), onto rootstocks which had fully broken dormancy, 
and which had been planted into a nursery row at least one year ahead.  I 
use a simple graft: one long diagonal cut on the rootstock stem, and one 
long diagonal cut on the scion, and an elastic wrap to join the two.  And 
keep the nursery row watered.

tc, s.WI, rather poor sandier soil.


----Original Message Follows----
From: Jason MacArthur <rotread@localnet.com>
Reply-To: North American Fruit Explorers <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
To: nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
Subject: [NAFEX] spring grafting
Date: Wed, 7 Jan 2004 17:46:28 -0500

I have a few Bud9 apple trees going into 2nd leaf which I would like to 
graft over to other varieties.  I have done cleft grafting on larger trees 
but I am leery of doing this on so small a tree.  Another option is to do 
whip and tongue grafts on all the branches, "topwork" the tree so to speak.  
A third option, which was recently recommended to me, is to bud graft the 
trees over in spring, a method I am not familiar with.  My fourth option is 
to wait and bud graft the trees in late summer.  Are there are any 
recommendations out there?  I am relatively new to grafting and apple tree 
growing, and I don't want to mess up my poor little trees!

Jason MacArthur
Marlboro, Vt
Zone 4b

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