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  • From: "Mark Lee" <markl@nytec.com>
  • To: "North American Fruit Explorers" <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
  • Subject: RE: [NAFEX] Pluot (was: Apricot tree)
  • Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2003 08:26:39 -0700

Chris,
I believe my problem with pluots is not due to frost. Last winter was
pretty mild and we only had frost a few times. I think my problem is lack
of pollinators. It is a challenging temperature zone where it is too cold
for bumble bees to be efficient foragers yet warm enough to cause pluots to
bloom (just below 50'F). I think orchard mason bees would have a hard time
working at this temperature also. I guess I could make it artificially
warmer around the tree with a clear plastic tent and then capture and
release bumble bees inside this tent. Sounds like too much work.

Maybe the best way to get this pluot tree into production is to replace all
its branches (ie via grafting) with a plum I know will produce in Seattle.
-Mark Lee, Seattle

-----Original Message-----
From: nafex-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org
[mailto:nafex-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org]On Behalf Of Mauch1@aol.com
Sent: Thursday, July 17, 2003 6:56 AM
To: nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
Subject: [NAFEX] Pluot (was: Apricot tree)


Mark,
Sorry it took so long for me to get back, I hadn't seen the
message. Note that none of these is fool-proof or even proven.

Some things you can do to delay and or protect blooms:
1) Paint the tree trunk with a diluted indoor latex paint
(latex to water a 1:1 ratio). This helps keep the trunk
cooler and delays the sap rise.
2) Pile snow around the tree. (This is probably not an
option for you in Seattle, and rarely for me, plus I'm not
sure how well it works, (May work in Moscow). Similar concept
to #1.
3) Plant the tree against a wall (particularly a North Wall)
You already have your tree planted, + would a north wall be
too cool for Seattle?
4) There's a new commercial product (spray) out that is
supposed to provide frost protection, but I can't remember
the name. Has anyone else out heard of this?
5) I'm testing a homemade frost protection spray, but
unfortunately, this was my first year trying it and we did not
get a 'test' winter, so I probably would have gotten fruit set
anyway.

If the tree is about to bloom or blooming:
6) Miniature Christmas tree lights. Many times only a degree or
two will make a difference in fruit set. However I didn't find
this effective on a small tree with a 100 light strand.
7) If you can spare the water, running a sprinkler on the tree
during a frost period may help.
8) Covering the tree, depending on the tree size and your
determination, might be an option.

Remember that clear, low humidity nights (do you get these in
Seattle?) are probably the worst for having frosts.

You could be right about your climate not being right for pluots,
but hey, that's what fruit exploring is about, right?
Sometimes just delaying the bloom for a few days can make a
tremendous difference.

Chris Mauchline
SE PA, zone 6
40° 5' N 75° 51'W
~650 ft elevation


>Chris,
>I have a problem with pluots setting fruit. What "games" are >you
referring
>to in order to delay blooms? My pluot is the first tree to >bloom in early
>March or even late February. I planted one of these in the >Ballard
>neighborhood of Seattle, and other another about 10 miles >north in
Edmonds.
>Although the same age, the one in Ballard sets a modest >amount of fruit
each
>year and is somewhat dwarf due to poor growing conditions. >The other is a
>larger tree but produces 1 or 2 fruits only each year... this >year no
fruit
>:-( . I just don't think pluots are cut out for my climate, >but if you
have
>some bloom related tips, I'd like to hear them.
>-Mark Lee, Seattle, zone 7B/8A


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