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Re: [NAFEX] T-bud demonstrated via animation

From: "philip sauber" <mrtejas@lycos.com>
To: "North American Fruit Explorers" <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
Subject: Re: [NAFEX] T-bud demonstrated via animation
Date: Fri, 18 Apr 2003 14:21:39 -0500

In my opinion, the GIF does not give a good picture of how to cut the bud for
t-budding. It looks more like how to cut a chip for a chip bud. Start out
about 1/2" above the bud and make a straight cut to 1/2" below the bud
keeping the amount cut off thin. The same technique can also be used on
apples, pears, persimmon, peaches etc. I just got back today from t-budding
several of a friend's persimmon trees.

The link below gives the best pictures of t-budding citrus I have ever seen.

http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/citrus/budding/budding.htm
--

See also my secrets of t-budding citrus success page. I wrote this up since
many things must be right for a t-bud to take, the right budwood(2nd to last
growth spurt), the outside temperature and on and on =>

http://members.fortunecity.com/pjsauber/BuddingNotes.htm

I use dormant buds for citrus, pears, and persimmons cut in February and
budded when the bark starts slipping in April. You can't do t-budding where
I live near Houston in the summer as the buds die if the weather is above
90F. I think in the frozen north where most list memebers live, you could
probably do t-budding in the summer and I've heard it called summer budding.

Most budding in my area is done in the fall about September 15 - October 15
when the weather is below 90F and the cool fronts with night temperatures
below 55F haven't hit yet. The budwood is from current growth. The bud is
left on the seedling through the winter(winters are mild) and forced in the
spring.

Also check out the grafting techniques I have been documenting on my home
page. I have been building these pages primarily to remind myself how to do
the various grafting techniques. I am really a beginner and have only been
grafting a few years.

http://members.fortunecity.com/pjsauber

On Fri, 18 Apr 2003 08:54:01
Mark Lee wrote:
>http://generalhorticulture.tamu.edu/lectsupl/Propaga/p93f1an.html
>The link above contains a computer animation (GIF file) that demonstrates
>how a T-bud is put together. I have never seen this done in-person, but I
>have read instructions from a number of sources. The animation clearly
>shows what to do. I'm pretty sure I can make this work now. Anyone new to
>grafting should check out this link. It will help you add T-buds to your
>bag of tracks.
>-Mark Lee, Seattle, z7B/8A

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To: "North American Fruit Explorers" <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
References: <BAC370B9.D521%lonrom@hevanet.com>
Subject: Re: [NAFEX] multiple apple cultivars on one tree?
Date: Fri, 18 Apr 2003 14:26:41 -0700
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Re: [NAFEX] multiple apple cultivars on one tree?Please unsubscribe.
----- Original Message -----=20
From: Lon J. Rombough=20
To: North American Fruit Explorers=20
Sent: Wednesday, April 16, 2003 8:42 PM
Subject: Re: [NAFEX] multiple apple cultivars on one tree?

It's very likely that one or more of the varieties you grafted on =
the crab was a symptomless carrier of virus. There are viruses that =
have little or no effect on cultivated apples, but will attack a number =
of species of crab apples, causing the death of the tree. If you peel =
the bark off the crab apple, you may find that the wood is pitted, while =
the wood of the scion is not.
I've gotten letters from NAFEX members that were pretty irate about =
multiple graft trees as a cause of spreading virus, with some who left =
the group because they didn't want to be part of it, or even because =
they got virus infected material from someone with a multiple variety =
tree. It's much better to graft one variety per dwarf rootstock than a =
collection on a single large tree. I have a multiple graft tree for my =
own enjoyment, but I also have the important varieties on individual =
stocks if I share scionwood. And there ARE signs of virus in my big =
tree - apple mosaic and burr knots - which don't show up on the =
individual trees. I destroy all the wood from the big tree.=20
-Lon Rombough=20

=20

Grapes, writing, consulting, my book, The Grape Grower, at =
http://www.bunchgrapes.com

From: list@ginda.us

Reply-To: North American Fruit Explorers <nafex@listsibiblio.org>
Date: Wed, 16 Apr 2003 22:38:29 -0400
To: North American Fruit Explorers <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
Subject: Re: [NAFEX] multiple apple cultivars on one tree?

I grafted a bunch of varieties onto two crab apples. One of them =
had=20
some leaves that were oddly shaped after that. It may have had them =

before I grafted for all I know - I hadn't looked at it too closely. =
=20
But I did worry if I might have given it a virus. Two years ago we =
had=20
a serious summer drought, and that tree nearly died. It finished =
dying=20
last year (in more dry weather, although I watered it.) The other =
crab=20
did fine, and I haven't seen any other dead or dying apples around=20
town. So I think it's likely that something from the multiple =
grafts=20
weakened the crab. Whether that was a virus, or some kind of=20
incompatibility, or just that there were "holes" in its skin where =
the=20
grafts hadn't fully healed, I couldn't say. I do know that if I'd =
just=20
pruned it and not put on the extra wood, it would have been minor=20
pruning. (That is, I didn't chop off much of the tree to graft it.)

I was very careful to graft each type of scion onto only one of the =
two=20
crabs, and to wash all my tools carefully between trees. So a virus =

transmitted to one would likely have missed the other.

The other crab is looking very happy right now, with 5 different=20
cultivars grafted to it. Interestingly, the crab twigs have tiny=20
leaves showing, and the grafted twigs just have swelling buds. I =
don't=20
know if that's because the crab is naturally earlier or if its =
because=20
of some compatibility thing. But some of the grafts look like they=20
might flwoer this year, which would be very exciting for me.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------=
-----

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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD><TITLE>Re: [NAFEX] multiple apple cultivars on one =
tree?</TITLE>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2614.3500" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Please unsubscribe.</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: =
0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-RIGHT: 0px">
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV=20
style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
black"><B>From:</B>=20
<A href=3D"mailto:lonrom@hevanet.com"; title=3Dlonrom@hevanet.com>Lon =
J.=20
Rombough</A> </DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A=20
href=3D"mailto:nafex@lists.ibiblio.org"; =
title=3Dnafex@lists.ibiblio.org>North=20
American Fruit Explorers</A> </DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Wednesday, April 16, 2003 =
8:42=20
PM</DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: [NAFEX] multiple =
apple=20
cultivars on one tree?</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>   It's very likely that one or more of =
the=20
varieties you grafted on the crab was a symptomless carrier of virus.=20
  There are viruses that have little or no effect on =
cultivated=20
apples, but will attack a number of species of crab apples, causing =
the death=20
of the tree.  If you peel the bark off the crab apple, you may =
find that=20
the wood is pitted, while the wood of the scion is=20
not.<BR>   I've gotten letters from NAFEX members that =
were=20
pretty irate about multiple graft trees as a cause of spreading virus, =
with=20
some who left the group because they didn't want to be part of it, or =
even=20
because they got virus infected material from someone with a multiple =
variety=20
tree.  It's much better to graft one variety per dwarf rootstock =
than a=20
collection on a single large tree.  I have a multiple graft tree =
for my=20
own enjoyment, but I also have the important varieties on individual =
stocks if=20
I share scionwood.  And there ARE signs of virus in my big tree - =
apple=20
mosaic and burr knots - which don't show up on the individual trees. =
 I=20
destroy all the wood from the big tree. <BR>-Lon Rombough <BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE>   <BR></BLOCKQUOTE>Grapes, writing, =
consulting, my=20
book, <B>The Grape Grower</B>, at =
http://www.bunchgrapes.com<BR><BR><B>From:=20
</B>list@ginda.us<BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE><B>Reply-To: </B>North American Fruit Explorers=20
<nafex@listsibiblio.org><BR><B>Date: </B>Wed, 16 Apr 2003 =
22:38:29=20
-0400<BR><B>To: </B>North American Fruit Explorers=20
<nafex@lists.ibiblio.org><BR><B>Subject: </B>Re: [NAFEX] =
multiple=20
apple cultivars on one tree?<BR><BR></BLOCKQUOTE><BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE><TT>I grafted a bunch of varieties onto two crab apples.=20
 One of them had <BR>some leaves that were oddly shaped after =
that.=20
 It may have had them <BR>before I grafted for all I know - I =
hadn't=20
looked at it too closely.  <BR>But I did worry if I might have =
given it=20
a virus.  Two years ago we had <BR>a serious summer drought, =
and that=20
tree nearly died.  It finished dying <BR>last year (in more dry =

weather, although I watered it.)  The other crab <BR>did fine, =
and I=20
haven't seen any other dead or dying apples around <BR>town. =
 So I=20
think it's likely that something from the multiple grafts =
<BR>weakened the=20
crab.   Whether that was a virus, or some kind of=20
<BR>incompatibility, or just that there were "holes" in its skin =
where the=20
<BR>grafts hadn't fully healed, I couldn't say.  I do know that =
if I'd=20
just <BR>pruned it and not put on the extra wood, it would have been =
minor=20
<BR>pruning.  (That is, I didn't chop off much of the tree to =
graft=20
it.)<BR><BR>I was very careful to graft each type of scion onto only =
one of=20
the two <BR>crabs, and to wash all my tools carefully between trees. =

 So a virus <BR>transmitted to one would likely have missed the =

other.<BR><BR>The other crab is looking very happy right now, with 5 =

different <BR>cultivars grafted to it.  Interestingly, the crab =
twigs=20
have tiny <BR>leaves showing, and the grafted twigs just have =
swelling buds.=20
 I don't <BR>know if that's because the crab is naturally =
earlier or if=20
its because <BR>of some compatibility thing.  But some of the =
grafts=20
look like they <BR>might flwoer this year, which would be very =
exciting for=20
me.<BR><BR></TT></BLOCKQUOTE>
<P>
<HR>

<P></P>_______________________________________________<BR>nafex =
mailing=20
list<BR>nafex@lists.ibiblio.org<BR>Most questions can be answered=20
here:<BR>http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex<BR>File =
attachments=20
are accepted by this list; please do not send binary files, plain text =

ONLY!<BR>Message archives are=20
here:<BR>https://lists.ibiblio.org/sympa/arc/nafex<BR>To view your user =
options=20
go to: <BR>http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/options/nafex/XXXX@XXXX =
(where=20
XXXX@XXXX is <BR>YOUR email address)<BR>NAFEX web site:  =20
http://www.nafex.org/<BR></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_0042_01C305B6.87FD0A40--

RE: [NAFEX] T-bud demonstrated via animation, Raby, Brian {D204~Indianapolis}, 04/18/2003
- Re: [NAFEX] T-bud demonstrated via animation, Lon J. Rombough, 04/18/2003
- <Possible follow-up(s)>
- Re: [NAFEX] T-bud demonstrated via animation, philip sauber, 04/18/2003