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  • From: Victor Patterson <vsp@flash.net>
  • To: North American Fruit Explorers <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
  • Subject: Re: [NAFEX] Beautiful Fruits
  • Date: Fri, 04 Apr 2003 05:43:21 -0600

Doreeen:
Being a fruit lover that is a difficult question but a tree loaded
with persimmons is hard to ignore so that would be my nominee.
Victor

Doreen Howard wrote:
>
> I'm compiling a list of fruits that are beautiful to look at and luscious to
> eat--fruits that would be great to sell a farmer's markets, gourmet
> groceries and to find as ingredients or stars of good restaurant cuisine. I
> have a few assembled.
> Blood orange
> Saturn peach
> Api (Lady) apple
> White currant
>
> What would you nominate, fruit lovers?
> Doreen Howard
>
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>From sharplr@yahoo.com Fri Apr 4 07:41:13 2003
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From: lee sharp <sharplr@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [NAFEX] bleeding grafts
To: North American Fruit Explorers <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
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I have been grafting for 45 years and my favorite
procedure is to "bark graft". It is easy and very
successful to do. The "old timer" that taught me to
graft warned me not to graft a sap bleeding stump.
With experience I developed a method of cutting off
the plants to be grafted one day and waiting until the
next day after the dew dries to make sure the plants
are not bleeding and if dry complete the graft. If the
plants are bleeding I wait until they dry regardless
of how long it takes and then complete the grafting. I
have on occasion made a vertical cut down the stump
which seems to make the bleeding time less but that
depends on the trunk diameter.
I have used this procedure on Pecans, Pears,
Persimmons and Mulberries.

Lee Sharp
Ms. Gulf Coast,Zone 8b/9
--- del stubbs <pinewoodel@hotmail.com> wrote:
> I was loaned a wonderful little 1950's book by Carl
> Weschke 'Growing Nuts in
> the North'. He mentions grafting nuts after the
> leaves start to come out (on
> planted trees), but this causes considerable sap
> bleeding. His method of
> getting around this is to cut the rootstock - then
> wait several days before
> commencing with grafting. I am wondering if this
> might not have merit with
> stone fruit like apricots that seem to need higher
> temperatures to callus? I
> remember Bob Purvis saying to graft apricots late to
> get as much heat as
> possible, but not so late that they fill the graft
> with running sap. 6"snow
> today, Del
>
> Del Stubbs www.pinewoodforge.com ag zone2/3
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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>From shelly0312@hotmail.com Fri Apr 4 07:44:14 2003
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Subject: [NAFEX] lichens on trees
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<html><div style='background-color:'><DIV>
<P>I was always under the impression seeing lichen was "a good thing".&nbsp;
They will not thrive in the presence of air pollutants.&nbsp; "Don't worry,
be happy".&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Michelle Horner&nbsp;&nbsp; SE Wis&nbsp; z
4/5<BR><BR></P></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>&gt;From: nafex-request@lists.ibiblio.org
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<DIV></DIV>&gt;To: nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
<DIV></DIV>&gt;Subject: nafex Digest, Vol 3, Issue 8
<DIV></DIV>&gt;Date: Fri, 4 Apr 2003 00:32:10 -0500 (EST)
<DIV></DIV>&gt;
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<DIV></DIV>&gt;
<DIV></DIV>&gt;
<DIV></DIV>&gt;Today's Topics:
<DIV></DIV>&gt;
<DIV></DIV>&gt; 1. Re: Lichens on trees (Rick Valley)
<DIV></DIV>&gt; 2. Re: Lichens on trees (Joe and Ellen Hecksel)
<DIV></DIV>&gt; 3. Use of Scientific Names (Was Re: Unidentified Fruit)
<DIV></DIV>&gt; (Dan Sorensen)
<DIV></DIV>&gt; 4. Beautiful Fruits (Doreen Howard)
<DIV></DIV>&gt; 5. Re: Lichens on trees (Dr. Chiranjit Parmar)
<DIV></DIV>&gt; 6. Re: Emergency recomendations needed: Rootstock source
<DIV></DIV>&gt; (road's end farm)
<DIV></DIV>&gt; 7. Re: Beautiful Fruits (Ribes60@aol.com)
<DIV></DIV>&gt; 8. bleeding grafts (del stubbs)
<DIV></DIV>&gt; 9. Re: bleeding grafts (Lon J. Rombough)
<DIV></DIV>&gt; 10. Re: Beautiful Fruits (Lon J. Rombough)
<DIV></DIV>&gt; 11. Budagowsky 118 (Sgroppino Farms)
<DIV></DIV>&gt;
<DIV></DIV>&gt;
<DIV></DIV>&gt;----------------------------------------------------------------------

<DIV></DIV>&gt;
<DIV></DIV>&gt;Message: 1
<DIV></DIV>&gt;Date: Thu, 03 Apr 2003 11:39:48 -0700
<DIV></DIV>&gt;From: Rick Valley <BAMBOOGROVE@CMUG.COM>
<DIV></DIV>&gt;Subject: Re: [NAFEX] Lichens on trees
<DIV></DIV>&gt;To: North American Fruit Explorers <NAFEX@LISTS.IBIBLIO.ORG>
<DIV></DIV>&gt;Message-ID: <BAB1CE03.3CDE%BAMBOOGROVE@CMUG.COM>
<DIV></DIV>&gt;Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
<DIV></DIV>&gt;
<DIV></DIV>&gt;
<DIV></DIV>&gt;
<DIV></DIV>&gt;Subject: Re: [NAFEX] Lichens on trees
<DIV></DIV>&gt; &gt;
<DIV></DIV>&gt; &gt; I have heard that lichens don't harm trees but may
indicate a poor
<DIV></DIV>&gt; &gt;&gt; nutritional state. They are getting pretty bad on my
walnut and apple
<DIV></DIV>&gt; &gt;&gt; trees and are unsightly.
<DIV></DIV>&gt;
<DIV></DIV>&gt;I get similar feedback on my beard sometimes. But I notice
that in certain
<DIV></DIV>&gt;weather conditions both function as terrific water condensors.
Thus it makes
<DIV></DIV>&gt;good sense to hear lichen names like "barba de palo"
(treebeard)
<DIV></DIV>&gt;
<DIV></DIV>&gt;They give the little insectivorous birds more places to check
for lunch,
<DIV></DIV>&gt;too.
<DIV></DIV>&gt;
<DIV></DIV>&gt;-Rick
<DIV></DIV>&gt;
<DIV></DIV>&gt;
<DIV></DIV>&gt;------------------------------
<DIV></DIV>&gt;
<DIV></DIV>&gt;Message: 2
<DIV></DIV>&gt;Date: Thu, 03 Apr 2003 14:58:32 -0500
<DIV></DIV>&gt;From: Joe and Ellen Hecksel <JHECKSEL@VOYAGER.NET>
<DIV></DIV>&gt;Subject: Re: [NAFEX] Lichens on trees
<DIV></DIV>&gt;To: North American Fruit Explorers <NAFEX@LISTS.IBIBLIO.ORG>
<DIV></DIV>&gt;Message-ID: &lt;3E8C9268.6080008@voyager.net&gt;
<DIV></DIV>&gt;Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed
<DIV></DIV>&gt;
<DIV></DIV>&gt;Young, fast growing trees tend to shed there outerbark more
quickly
<DIV></DIV>&gt;since their girth increases by a larger percentage each year.
The
<DIV></DIV>&gt;lichens cannot get a toehold. Trees that are older or are
struggling do
<DIV></DIV>&gt;not shuck off their outer bark as quickly and lichens can
colonize them.
<DIV></DIV>&gt;
<DIV></DIV>&gt; &gt;I have heard that lichens don't harm trees but may
indicate a poor nutritional state.
<DIV></DIV>&gt;
<DIV></DIV>&gt;
<DIV></DIV>&gt;--
<DIV></DIV>&gt;-Joe Hecksel
<DIV></DIV>&gt;My personal web site: http://my.voyager.net/~jhecksel
<DIV></DIV>&gt;
<DIV></DIV>&gt;
<DIV></DIV>&gt;
<DIV></DIV>&gt;
<DIV></DIV>&gt;
<DIV></DIV>&gt;------------------------------
<DIV></DIV>&gt;
<DIV></DIV>&gt;Message: 3
<DIV></DIV>&gt;Date: Thu, 03 Apr 2003 17:16:19 -0500
<DIV></DIV>&gt;From: Dan Sorensen <DAN.PHANTOM@WESTPA.NET>
<DIV></DIV>&gt;Subject: [NAFEX] Use of Scientific Names (Was Re: Unidentified
Fruit)
<DIV></DIV>&gt;To: North American Fruit Explorers <NAFEX@LISTS.IBIBLIO.ORG>
<DIV></DIV>&gt;Message-ID:
&lt;5.2.0.9.2.20030403164831.01eaa0d0@mail.westpa.net&gt;
<DIV></DIV>&gt;Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
<DIV></DIV>&gt;
<DIV></DIV>&gt;This is a perfect example of the failure of common names and
makes a good
<DIV></DIV>&gt;case for the use of scientific names. The word "sapote" is
believed to
<DIV></DIV>&gt;have come from an Aztec word, "tzapotl", which refers to any
soft, sweet
<DIV></DIV>&gt;fruit. Avoiding any fruit called sapote would be like saying
because may
<DIV></DIV>&gt;apples (Podophyllum)can be poisonous one should avoid eating
anything
<DIV></DIV>&gt;called "apple". There are plants in at least seven different
genera that
<DIV></DIV>&gt;go by the common name of "sapote" and perhaps dozens of others
that have
<DIV></DIV>&gt;sapote as part of their name. Even I, here in Pennsylvania am
growing
<DIV></DIV>&gt;white sapote (Casimiroa sapota) and the Chico sapote
(Manilkara sapota),
<DIV></DIV>&gt;two totally different, unrelated species. Unless you are also
allergic to
<DIV></DIV>&gt;common chewing gum, you probably won't be allergic to the
chico sapote,
<DIV></DIV>&gt;although undoubtedly some people are because given any
substance at random,
<DIV></DIV>&gt;someone is probably allergic to it. It would be sad if some
people with
<DIV></DIV>&gt;latex allergy would automatically refuse to eat a fruit
because it is
<DIV></DIV>&gt;called sapote by some people somewhere.
<DIV></DIV>&gt;
<DIV></DIV>&gt;I happen to be allergic to mangoes, cashews and gingko nuts
under certain
<DIV></DIV>&gt;conditions. The first two are in the same family as poison
ivy. the third
<DIV></DIV>&gt;is unrelated but has a similar oil in the fleshy covering. I
try to learn
<DIV></DIV>&gt;as much as possible about new fruits so I know what to be
cautious of and
<DIV></DIV>&gt;what to avoid altogether.
<DIV></DIV>&gt;
<DIV></DIV>&gt;On the other hand, it doesn't help when the botanists decide
the name is
<DIV></DIV>&gt;incorrect and change it. ;-)
<DIV></DIV>&gt;
<DIV></DIV>&gt;Dan
<DIV></DIV>&gt;
<DIV></DIV>&gt;At 10:36 AM 4/3/2003 -0600, you wrote:
<DIV></DIV>&gt;
<DIV></DIV>&gt; &gt;After reading all the discussion about the mystery fruit,
I'd like to add a
<DIV></DIV>&gt; &gt;caution. A couple years ago, Dr. Bargyla Rateaver of San
Diego sent me a
<DIV></DIV>&gt; &gt;box of sapote fruit from her trees. They had a lovely
aroma and wonderful
<DIV></DIV>&gt; &gt;flavor. But....the second the flesh hit my lips, they
started to swell.
<DIV></DIV>&gt; &gt;Same with the throat. I avoided a trip to ER by gulping
50 mg. of Benadryl.
<DIV></DIV>&gt; &gt;My point is, if you have a latex allergy or sensitivity,
sapote will give
<DIV></DIV>&gt; &gt;you major trouble. The latex can be seen in fruit skins.
<DIV></DIV>&gt; &gt;Doreen Howard
<DIV></DIV>&gt; &gt;Wisconsin 4b, where the pears broke bud yesterday and the
cornus mas is
<DIV></DIV>&gt; &gt;blooming
<DIV></DIV>&gt; &gt;
<DIV></DIV>&gt;
<DIV></DIV>&gt;______________________________________________________________________

<DIV></DIV>&gt;Dan Sorensen Visit my Experimental Gardening
<DIV></DIV>&gt;Website at:
<DIV></DIV>&gt;RD2 Box 57 http://phantom.home.westpa.net/
<DIV></DIV>&gt;Russell, PA 16345 Northwestern Pennsylvania USDA
<DIV></DIV>&gt;Zone 5
<DIV></DIV>&gt;dan.phantom@westpa.net Penn State Master Gardener &amp; Ham
Radio-
<DIV></DIV>&gt;WB8VEF
<DIV></DIV>&gt;______________________________________________________________________

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<DIV></DIV>&gt;
<DIV></DIV>&gt;Message: 4
<DIV></DIV>&gt;Date: Thu, 3 Apr 2003 17:07:43 -0600
<DIV></DIV>&gt;From: "Doreen Howard" <DOREENH@TICON.NET>
<DIV></DIV>&gt;Subject: [NAFEX] Beautiful Fruits
<DIV></DIV>&gt;To: "North American Fruit Explorers" <NAFEX@LISTS.IBIBLIO.ORG>
<DIV></DIV>&gt;Message-ID: &lt;002401c2fa35$d73b65c0$d084b542@oemcomputer&gt;
<DIV></DIV>&gt;Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
<DIV></DIV>&gt;
<DIV></DIV>&gt;I'm compiling a list of fruits that are beautiful to look at
and luscious to
<DIV></DIV>&gt;eat--fruits that would be great to sell a farmer's markets,
gourmet
<DIV></DIV>&gt;groceries and to find as ingredients or stars of good
restaurant cuisine. I
<DIV></DIV>&gt;have a few assembled.
<DIV></DIV>&gt;Blood orange
<DIV></DIV>&gt;Saturn peach
<DIV></DIV>&gt;Api (Lady) apple
<DIV></DIV>&gt;White currant
<DIV></DIV>&gt;
<DIV></DIV>&gt;What would you nominate, fruit lovers?
<DIV></DIV>&gt;Doreen Howard
<DIV></DIV>&gt;
<DIV></DIV>&gt;
<DIV></DIV>&gt;
<DIV></DIV>&gt;------------------------------
<DIV></DIV>&gt;
<DIV></DIV>&gt;Message: 5
<DIV></DIV>&gt;Date: Fri, 28 Feb 2003 05:56:00 +0530
<DIV></DIV>&gt;From: "Dr. Chiranjit Parmar" <PARMARCH@VSNL.COM>
<DIV></DIV>&gt;Subject: Re: [NAFEX] Lichens on trees
<DIV></DIV>&gt;To: "North American Fruit Explorers" <NAFEX@LISTS.IBIBLIO.ORG>
<DIV></DIV>&gt;Message-ID:
&lt;001301c2debf$fa013c60$215e003d@ChiranjitParmar&gt;
<DIV></DIV>&gt;Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
<DIV></DIV>&gt;
<DIV></DIV>&gt;Our experience here in temperate zone is that when thw treees
get too old
<DIV></DIV>&gt;and devitalized or live their normal age span, they are
affected by lichens.
<DIV></DIV>&gt;
<DIV></DIV>&gt;Here the common belief among the orchardists is that
appearence of lichens
<DIV></DIV>&gt;on trees is an indication of the need for the replacement of
trees.
<DIV></DIV>&gt;
<DIV></DIV>&gt;Dr. Chiranjit Parmar
<DIV></DIV>&gt;Horticultural Consultant on Lesser Known Indian Fruits
<DIV></DIV>&gt;www.lesserknownindianplants.com
<DIV></DIV>&gt;
<DIV></DIV>&gt;----- Original Message -----
<DIV></DIV>&gt;From: Joe and Ellen Hecksel <JHECKSEL@VOYAGER.NET>
<DIV></DIV>&gt;To: North American Fruit Explorers <NAFEX@LISTS.IBIBLIO.ORG>
<DIV></DIV>&gt;Sent: Friday, April 04, 2003 1:28 AM
<DIV></DIV>&gt;Subject: Re: [NAFEX] Lichens on trees
<DIV></DIV>&gt;
<DIV></DIV>&gt;
<DIV></DIV>&gt; &gt; Young, fast growing trees tend to shed there outerbark
more quickly
<DIV></DIV>&gt; &gt; since their girth increases by a larger percentage each
year. The
<DIV></DIV>&gt; &gt; lichens cannot get a toehold. Trees that are older or
are struggling do
<DIV></DIV>&gt; &gt; not shuck off their outer bark as quickly and lichens
can colonize them.
<DIV></DIV>&gt; &gt;
<DIV></DIV>&gt; &gt; &gt;I have heard that lichens don't harm trees but may
indicate a poor
<DIV></DIV>&gt;nutritional state.
<DIV></DIV>&gt; &gt;
<DIV></DIV>&gt; &gt;
<DIV></DIV>&gt; &gt; --
<DIV></DIV>&gt; &gt; -Joe Hecksel
<DIV></DIV>&gt; &gt; My personal web site: http://my.voyager.net/~jhecksel
<DIV></DIV>&gt; &gt;
<DIV></DIV>&gt; &gt;
<DIV></DIV>&gt; &gt;
<DIV></DIV>&gt; &gt;
<DIV></DIV>&gt; &gt; _______________________________________________
<DIV></DIV>&gt; &gt; nafex mailing list
<DIV></DIV>&gt; &gt; nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
<DIV></DIV>&gt; &gt; Most questions can be answered here:
<DIV></DIV>&gt; &gt; http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex
<DIV></DIV>&gt; &gt; File attachments are accepted by this list; please do
not send binary
<DIV></DIV>&gt;files, plain text ONLY!
<DIV></DIV>&gt; &gt; Message archives are here:
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<DIV></DIV>&gt;is
<DIV></DIV>&gt; &gt; YOUR email address)
<DIV></DIV>&gt; &gt; NAFEX web site: http://www.nafex.org/
<DIV></DIV>&gt; &gt;
<DIV></DIV>&gt;
<DIV></DIV>&gt;
<DIV></DIV>&gt;------------------------------
<DIV></DIV>&gt;
<DIV></DIV>&gt;Message: 6
<DIV></DIV>&gt;Date: Thu, 3 Apr 2003 22:16:07 -0500
<DIV></DIV>&gt;From: "road's end farm" <ORGANIC101@LINKNY.COM>
<DIV></DIV>&gt;Subject: Re: [NAFEX] Emergency recomendations needed:
Rootstock source
<DIV></DIV>&gt;To: North American Fruit Explorers <NAFEX@LISTS.IBIBLIO.ORG>
<DIV></DIV>&gt;Message-ID: <C6BA14C1-664B-11D7-8F7B-00039357077E@LINKNY.COM>
<DIV></DIV>&gt;Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
<DIV></DIV>&gt;
<DIV></DIV>&gt;Maybe try Cummins Nursery?
<DIV></DIV>&gt;18 Glass Factory Bay Rd.
<DIV></DIV>&gt;Geneva NY 14456
<DIV></DIV>&gt;315-789-7083
<DIV></DIV>&gt;www.cumminsnursery.com
<DIV></DIV>&gt;I don't know what they have in stock, this time of year; and
the website
<DIV></DIV>&gt;doesn't list either of those two varieties; but they might
have
<DIV></DIV>&gt;something you could use.
<DIV></DIV>&gt;
<DIV></DIV>&gt;--Rivka
<DIV></DIV>&gt;Finger Lakes NY; zone 5 mostly
<DIV></DIV>&gt;
<DIV></DIV>&gt;On Wednesday, April 2, 2003, at 10:32 PM, Mauch1@aol.com
wrote:
<DIV></DIV>&gt;
<DIV></DIV>&gt; &gt; I messed up. I delayed making my
<DIV></DIV>&gt; &gt; final rootstock order for the spring,
<DIV></DIV>&gt; &gt; and my "standard" source is sold out.
<DIV></DIV>&gt; &gt;
<DIV></DIV>&gt; &gt; I need ~10 Plum/Apricot rootstocks.
<DIV></DIV>&gt; &gt; Was going to get Marianna 2624,
<DIV></DIV>&gt; &gt; but would also be happy with St. Julian A
<DIV></DIV>&gt; &gt; (Actually though I was looking for moderate
<DIV></DIV>&gt; &gt; dwarfing from these two options, at this point
<DIV></DIV>&gt; &gt; I'll almost take anything graft compatible).
<DIV></DIV>&gt; &gt;
<DIV></DIV>&gt; &gt; If the nursery can also supply even smaller quantities
of
<DIV></DIV>&gt; &gt; apple and pear rootstock, I'd be even happier.
<DIV></DIV>&gt; &gt;
<DIV></DIV>&gt; &gt; Please go ahead and make recommendations.
<DIV></DIV>&gt; &gt;
<DIV></DIV>&gt; &gt; Thanks very much!
<DIV></DIV>&gt; &gt;
<DIV></DIV>&gt; &gt; Chris Mauchline
<DIV></DIV>&gt; &gt; SE PA, zone 6
<DIV></DIV>&gt; &gt; 40° 5' N 75° 51'W
<DIV></DIV>&gt; &gt; ~650 ft elevation
<DIV></DIV>&gt; &gt; _______________________________________________
<DIV></DIV>&gt; &gt;
<DIV></DIV>&gt; &gt;
<DIV></DIV>&gt;
<DIV></DIV>&gt;
<DIV></DIV>&gt;------------------------------
<DIV></DIV>&gt;
<DIV></DIV>&gt;Message: 7
<DIV></DIV>&gt;Date: Thu, 3 Apr 2003 23:17:37 EST
<DIV></DIV>&gt;From: Ribes60@aol.com
<DIV></DIV>&gt;Subject: Re: [NAFEX] Beautiful Fruits
<DIV></DIV>&gt;To: nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
<DIV></DIV>&gt;Message-ID: &lt;6.df2eade.2bbe6161@aol.com&gt;
<DIV></DIV>&gt;Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
<DIV></DIV>&gt;
<DIV></DIV>&gt;I think that Red Currants are the most beautiful fruit I have
seen
<DIV></DIV>&gt;
<DIV></DIV>&gt;
<DIV></DIV>&gt;Ed Mashburn
<DIV></DIV>&gt;Northumberland BerryWorks
<DIV></DIV>&gt;707 Front Street
<DIV></DIV>&gt;Northumberland, PA 17857
<DIV></DIV>&gt;(570) 473-9910
<DIV></DIV>&gt;-------------- next part --------------
<DIV></DIV>&gt;An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
<DIV></DIV>&gt;URL:
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<DIV></DIV>&gt;
<DIV></DIV>&gt;------------------------------
<DIV></DIV>&gt;
<DIV></DIV>&gt;Message: 8
<DIV></DIV>&gt;Date: Fri, 04 Apr 2003 04:44:16 +0000
<DIV></DIV>&gt;From: "del stubbs" <PINEWOODEL@HOTMAIL.COM>
<DIV></DIV>&gt;Subject: [NAFEX] bleeding grafts
<DIV></DIV>&gt;To: nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
<DIV></DIV>&gt;Message-ID: <F40AMFKQU1BCDUG07MJ000511F7@HOTMAIL.COM>
<DIV></DIV>&gt;Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed
<DIV></DIV>&gt;
<DIV></DIV>&gt;I was loaned a wonderful little 1950's book by Carl Weschke
'Growing Nuts in
<DIV></DIV>&gt;the North'. He mentions grafting nuts after the leaves start
to come out (on
<DIV></DIV>&gt;planted trees), but this causes considerable sap bleeding. His
method of
<DIV></DIV>&gt;getting around this is to cut the rootstock - then wait
several days before
<DIV></DIV>&gt;commencing with grafting. I am wondering if this might not
have merit with
<DIV></DIV>&gt;stone fruit like apricots that seem to need higher
temperatures to callus? I
<DIV></DIV>&gt;remember Bob Purvis saying to graft apricots late to get as
much heat as
<DIV></DIV>&gt;possible, but not so late that they fill the graft with
running sap. 6"snow
<DIV></DIV>&gt;today, Del
<DIV></DIV>&gt;
<DIV></DIV>&gt;Del Stubbs www.pinewoodforge.com ag zone2/3
<DIV></DIV>&gt;
<DIV></DIV>&gt;
<DIV></DIV>&gt;
<DIV></DIV>&gt;
<DIV></DIV>&gt;
<DIV></DIV>&gt;
<DIV></DIV>&gt;_________________________________________________________________

<DIV></DIV>&gt;MSN 8 helps eliminate e-mail viruses. Get 2 months FREE*.
<DIV></DIV>&gt;http://join.msn.com/?page=features/virus
<DIV></DIV>&gt;
<DIV></DIV>&gt;
<DIV></DIV>&gt;------------------------------
<DIV></DIV>&gt;
<DIV></DIV>&gt;Message: 9
<DIV></DIV>&gt;Date: Thu, 03 Apr 2003 21:12:09 -0800
<DIV></DIV>&gt;From: "Lon J. Rombough" <LONROM@HEVANET.COM>
<DIV></DIV>&gt;Subject: Re: [NAFEX] bleeding grafts
<DIV></DIV>&gt;To: North American Fruit Explorers <NAFEX@LISTS.IBIBLIO.ORG>
<DIV></DIV>&gt;Message-ID: <BAB25429.CDB5%LONROM@HEVANET.COM>
<DIV></DIV>&gt;Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
<DIV></DIV>&gt;
<DIV></DIV>&gt;One method of avoiding bleeding in nut trees and grapes is to
save dormant
<DIV></DIV>&gt;scions and graft them on new, green shoots. The green shoots
don't bleed
<DIV></DIV>&gt;and dormant scions are less prone to drying out the way green
to green
<DIV></DIV>&gt;grafts can do.
<DIV></DIV>&gt;-Lon Rombough
<DIV></DIV>&gt;I was loaned a wonderful little 1950's book by Carl Weschke
'Growing Nuts in
<DIV></DIV>&gt;the North'. He mentions grafting nuts after the leaves start
to come out (on
<DIV></DIV>&gt;planted trees), but this causes considerable sap bleeding. His
method of
<DIV></DIV>&gt;getting around this is to cut the rootstock - then wait
several days before
<DIV></DIV>&gt;commencing with grafting. I am wondering if this might not
have merit with
<DIV></DIV>&gt;stone fruit like apricots that seem to need higher
temperatures to callus? I
<DIV></DIV>&gt;remember Bob Purvis saying to graft apricots late to get as
much heat as
<DIV></DIV>&gt;possible, but not so late that they fill the graft with
running sap. 6"snow
<DIV></DIV>&gt;today, Del
<DIV></DIV>&gt;
<DIV></DIV>&gt;Del Stubbs www.pinewoodforge.com ag zone2/3
<DIV></DIV>&gt;
<DIV></DIV>&gt;
<DIV></DIV>&gt;-------------- next part --------------
<DIV></DIV>&gt;An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
<DIV></DIV>&gt;URL:
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<DIV></DIV>&gt;
<DIV></DIV>&gt;------------------------------
<DIV></DIV>&gt;
<DIV></DIV>&gt;Message: 10
<DIV></DIV>&gt;Date: Thu, 03 Apr 2003 21:22:45 -0800
<DIV></DIV>&gt;From: "Lon J. Rombough" <LONROM@HEVANET.COM>
<DIV></DIV>&gt;Subject: Re: [NAFEX] Beautiful Fruits
<DIV></DIV>&gt;To: North American Fruit Explorers <NAFEX@LISTS.IBIBLIO.ORG>
<DIV></DIV>&gt;Message-ID: <BAB256A5.CDBC%LONROM@HEVANET.COM>
<DIV></DIV>&gt;Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
<DIV></DIV>&gt;
<DIV></DIV>&gt;A well filled cluster of grapes with autumn sun on it is hard
to beat for
<DIV></DIV>&gt;beauty, to me. Golden ones backlit by the light, so the
berries are
<DIV></DIV>&gt;translucent and glowing, can be magnificent.
<DIV></DIV>&gt;-Lon Rombough
<DIV></DIV>&gt;
<DIV></DIV>&gt;------------------------------
<DIV></DIV>&gt;
<DIV></DIV>&gt;Message: 11
<DIV></DIV>&gt;Date: Fri, 4 Apr 2003 00:31:21 -0500
<DIV></DIV>&gt;From: "Sgroppino Farms" <SGROPPINO@SGROPPINO.COM>
<DIV></DIV>&gt;Subject: [NAFEX] Budagowsky 118
<DIV></DIV>&gt;To: <APPLE-CROP@VIRTUALORCHARD.NET>,
<NAFEX@LISTS.IBIBLIO.ORG>,
<DIV></DIV>&gt; <CIDER@TALISMAN.COM>
<DIV></DIV>&gt;Message-ID: &lt;001e01c2fa6b$72cbf8d0$834b030a@Sgroppino&gt;
<DIV></DIV>&gt;Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
<DIV></DIV>&gt;
<DIV></DIV>&gt;I'm in the process of grafting a bunch of trees for 2004 and
am trying out Bud 118 for the first time. I don't hear many people discussing
this rootstock, yet what little I've heard about it has been quite
positive---especially for rough Northern winters. Is there anyone on the list
who'd be willing to share their experiences with Bud 118? I'm curious to hear
what the downsides to it may be, aside from the unwieldly size of the trees
it can produce. Which apple cultivars are the best candidates for grafting
onto the more 'standard' sized rootstocks like Bud 118 and Antanovka? Which
should be avoided?
<DIV></DIV>&gt;
<DIV></DIV>&gt;Any/all feedback greatly appreciated.
<DIV></DIV>&gt;
<DIV></DIV>&gt;John
<DIV></DIV>&gt;
<DIV></DIV>&gt;* * * * *
<DIV></DIV>&gt;
<DIV></DIV>&gt;John A Gasbarre
<DIV></DIV>&gt;Sgroppino Farms
<DIV></DIV>&gt;Vinalhaven Island, Maine
<DIV></DIV>&gt;sgroppino@sgroppino.com
<DIV></DIV>&gt;USDA Zone 5
<DIV></DIV>&gt;
<DIV></DIV>&gt;
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<DIV></DIV>&gt;
<DIV></DIV>&gt;------------------------------
<DIV></DIV>&gt;
<DIV></DIV>&gt;_______________________________________________
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<DIV></DIV>&gt;Most questions can be answered here:
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<DIV></DIV>&gt;End of nafex Digest, Vol 3, Issue 8
<DIV></DIV>&gt;***********************************
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>From gc_nofs@hotmail.com Fri Apr 4 10:33:29 2003
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Walnut varieties only bleed if grafted before full leafing out. Never graft
till after leafing. Same goes for pruning walnuts if pruned before leafing
it will bleed a long long time. Only prune after full leafing.
Gordon C. Nofs
Flint, MI.
*************************************

----Original Message Follows----
From: "del stubbs" <pinewoodel@hotmail.com>
Reply-To: North American Fruit Explorers <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
To: nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
Subject: [NAFEX] bleeding grafts
Date: Fri, 04 Apr 2003 04:44:16 +0000

I was loaned a wonderful little 1950's book by Carl Weschke 'Growing Nuts in
the North'. He mentions grafting nuts after the leaves start to come out (on
planted trees), but this causes considerable sap bleeding. His method of
getting around this is to cut the rootstock - then wait several days before
commencing with grafting. I am wondering if this might not have merit with
stone fruit like apricots that seem to need higher temperatures to callus? I
remember Bob Purvis saying to graft apricots late to get as much heat as
possible, but not so late that they fill the graft with running sap. 6"snow
today, Del

Del Stubbs www.pinewoodforge.com ag zone2/3






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