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- From: Rodney Eveland <Reveland@WYOMING.com>
- To: North American Fruit Explorers <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
- Subject: Re: [NAFEX] Re: [BG]: fruit trees
- Date: Sat, 29 Mar 2003 09:21:52 -0700
You can either get help grafting from someone with a proven track
record, or tell the wife that the Master Gardeners said that if you cut
down the tree and pour clorox on the stump that it will grow back twice
as big, with extra sweet fruit in just a few years. Apologies to the
Master Gardeners........ ;-)
Rodney
Cara &Tom Patterson wrote:
>
> On Sat, 29 Mar 2003 Rodney Eveland <Reveland@WYOMING.com> wrote:
>
> >My Stanley is the only one of my plum trees that holds it's fruit well.
> >They will turn into prunes on the tree if my wife lets them stay that
> >long. She prefers letting them stay on until they are just starting to
> >turn as they then have a high sugar content and more flavor. We prefer
> >nearly all of the other prunes earlier in the season. A Stanley may look
> >ripe, but it isn't until much later in the season than most of the other
> >plums, at least in our part of the country. They develop a "foggy
> >looking" covering like some grapes that hides their real color. When did
> >you pick yours? We pick ours in Sept-Oct time frame if Jack Frost
> >doesn't kill them first. Definitely not in August.
> >Rodney in zone 4.
> >
>
> We've waited for them to get soft and have tried late September and
> October. I've had Stanley plums that were delicious, which is why I
> chose this variety, but the plums have never had any taste. (Well
> actually the unripe plums have quite a bit of taste, just not
> pleasant)
>
> I've considered grafting but have never had any luck with all my prior
> grafting attempts.
>
> Tom
>
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>From rooting@hortus.com Sat Mar 29 14:06:59 2003
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From: "rooting" <rooting@hortus.com>
To: "Rare Fruit List," <rarefruit@yahoogroups.com>,
"Perenials List," <perennials@mallorn.com>,
"NAFEX" <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 2003 14:06:57 -0500
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Subject: [NAFEX] powdery mildew
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For those who replied about powdery mildew on mint, Thank you!
The following ideas seem to be the most organic methods
Sulfur
When to Use: Apply to affected plants at the first sign of symptoms to
prevent spread of disease to unaffected areas and new growth. Repeat
treatments will likely be required if the fungus was left untreated too
long.
Lime Sulfur or Wettable Sulfur
When to Use: As directed as trees leaf and bud in the spring.
Dormant oil and Lime Sulfur mix
When to use: Use a horticultural oil in late winter or early spring before
any growth starts. Apply as directed and spray until the mixture runs off.
Baking Soda Spray
Recipe: Mix one teaspoon of baking soda and one quart of water in a spray
bottle. Add a few drops of dishwashing liquid. Adding 1/2 teaspoon of oil,
such as Sunspray Dormant Oil, or even Canola oil may increase the
effectiveness against black spot and other fungal diseases. Apply
liberally.
Milk
10-20% skim milk to water ratio. Milk seems to boost the plants immune
system to fight off fungi. Apply liberally.
We are trialing the baking soda (sodium bicarbonate) with some spreader in
the form of dish washing detergent by total immerse.
Initially all the visible mildew disappeared.
If this does not work then we will add some canola oil to the mix
regards
MRK
-
[NAFEX] Re: [BG]: fruit trees,
Cara &Tom Patterson, 03/29/2003
-
Re: [NAFEX] Re: [BG]: fruit trees,
Rodney Eveland, 03/29/2003
-
Message not available
- Re: [NAFEX] Re: [BG]: fruit trees, Rodney Eveland, 03/29/2003
-
Message not available
-
Re: [NAFEX] Re: [BG]: fruit trees,
Rodney Eveland, 03/29/2003
- <Possible follow-up(s)>
- Re: [NAFEX] Re: [BG]: fruit trees, Dan Ester, 03/29/2003
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