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nafex - Re: [NAFEX] New method for sprouting seeds

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  • From: "philip sauber" <mrxtexas@lycos.com>
  • To: "North American Fruit Explorers" <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
  • Cc:
  • Subject: Re: [NAFEX] New method for sprouting seeds
  • Date: Fri, 07 Mar 2003 15:26:42 -0600

I have had seedling citrus fruit in 1-3 years here 500 miles north of the
citrus belt on the z8b/9a border. I had a limequat fruit the first year in a
pot. 5 years is more likely and 10 or more years is not unheard of. A friend
has a cocktail grapefruit outside that took 15 years. You end up with a
thorny, upright, large tree(pick fruit with a ladder). Some of my seedlings
had nasty thorns as long as 2 inches. The thorns disappear the higher up you
get in the tree. I say had because I have grafted all the seedlings, like
bearing sour orange on sour orange seedling, changshou kumquat on sunquat
seedling, satsuma on long huang kat seedling,meyer lemon on limequat
seedling. My long huang kat seedling had bushels of fruit in its third year
but it was not sweet by Christmas=>too late for my preference and for
avoiding freezes. Meyer lemon as most citrus(except for clementine and a few
others), comes true from seed and unlike some, grows well on it's own roots.
They also can
be rooted from cuttings. Make sure there is no standing water, the soil
must drain very well. 50% sand would be good. With a grafted tree, you
could almost be guaranteed to have fruit the first year in a pot. Many meyer
lemon trees I see at Home Depot have fruit already before you buy them. I
live in a warm humid place and just wait until April to sprout my citrus
seeds. We will have 80F days by then.(You would be lucky to have any 80F
days in the hottest part of the summer in Seattle!)
--

On Fri, 7 Mar 2003 11:35:04
Mark Lee wrote:
>I have some equipment that I use to help germinate seeds. One of these is a
>temperature controlled chamber. It works well, but it is quite bulky and
>requires a source of AC power to regulate the temperature. I have developed
>a low tech alternative for small scale seed germinating projects... I mean
>really small scale. And my new technique is very portable, but I doubt that
>adds much value to the process. So here is my story:
>
>I needed a key ring recently, and I decided to buy one with a thermometer in
>it. I noticed that the temperature in my pocket was right around 80'F all
>day long, day after day. I don't know how much this varies from
>person-to-person, but at this temperature I saw an opportunity. This was
>close to the temperature I use in my seed germinating chamber. I decided to
>try an experiment. I purchased a Meyer lemon. I saved all the seeds, and I
>placed them in a plastic sandwich bag. Nothing else was added to the bag.
>I carried these in my pocket for a week. Nothing happened, and the seeds
>were starting to dry out a little. I decided to add some potting soil to
>the bag. After a few days my pocket started to smell like dirt, so I
>stopped the experiment. That was one day ago. Today I looked in the bag
>and one of the seeds has sprouted. The room temperature is around 60'F in
>my house. I think the seeds would have taken much longer to germinate at
>this room temperature than they did in my pocket. This sounds like an
>experiment that would make a good school science project (comparing seeds
>germinated at room temperature to seeds germinated in a pocket).
>
>By the way, how long do I have to wait to get Meyer lemons from seed, if it
>is at all possible?
>
>-Mark Lee, Seattle z7b/8a
>


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Date: Fri, 07 Mar 2003 17:42:28 -0500
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To: North American Fruit Explorers <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
Subject: Re: [NAFEX] Lutie Grape
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Hi,

According to the "THE SUPER GIGANTIC Y2K WINEGRAPE GLOSSARY" at
http://www.thewineguru.com/winegrapeglossary.htm

--------
LUTIE:
According to the Geilweilerhof database (above) this cultivar is
classified as a North American V. Labrusca derived from the Dracut Amber
O.P. variety. Once fairly commonly grown in the Northeast region of the
USA it can currently (1999) be found in certain U.S. North Central
states. (No other information on either of these cultivars available at
present).
--------

Hope that helps.

Later,
Tom


Richard O'Barr wrote:

> Is anyone growing the Lutie grape? I could not find that one in Lon's
> book. Any description will be helpful. The nurseryman here says he got
> it from his mom's
> place.
> Topgun Zone 7
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
> _______________________________________________
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>
--

===
Canada plant hardiness zone 5b
Southwest Ontario
===


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<!doctype html public "-//w3c//dtd html 4.0 transitional//en">
<html>
<body bgcolor="#FFFFFF">
Hi,
<p>According to the "THE SUPER GIGANTIC Y2K WINEGRAPE GLOSSARY" at <A
HREF="http://www.thewineguru.com/winegrapeglossary.htm";>http://www.thewineguru.com/winegrapeglossary.htm</A>
<p>--------
<br>LUTIE:
<br>According to the Geilweilerhof database (above) this cultivar is
classified
as a North American V. Labrusca derived from the Dracut Amber O.P. variety.
Once fairly commonly grown in the Northeast region of the USA it can currently
(1999) be found in certain U.S. North Central states. (No other information
on either of these cultivars available at present).
<br>--------
<p>Hope that helps.
<p>Later,
<br>Tom
<br>&nbsp;
<p>Richard O'Barr wrote:
<blockquote TYPE=CITE><style></style>
<font face="Arial"><font size=-1>Is
anyone growing the Lutie grape? I could not find that one in Lon's book.
Any description will be helpful. The nurseryman here says he got it from
his mom's place.</font></font><font face="Arial"><font
size=-1>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
Topgun</font></font><font face="Arial"><font
size=-1>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
Zone 7</font></font>
<pre WRAP>
<hr WIDTH="90%" SIZE=4>_______________________________________________
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nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
Most questions can be answered here:
<a
href="http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex";>http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex
</a>File attachments are accepted by this list; please do not send binary
files, plain text ONLY!
Message archives are here:
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href="https://lists.ibiblio.org/sympa/arc/nafex";>https://lists.ibiblio.org/sympa/arc/nafex
</a>To view your user options go to:&nbsp;
<a
href="http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/options/nafex/XXXX@XXXX";>http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/options/nafex/XXXX@XXXX</a>
(where XXXX@XXXX is&nbsp;
YOUR email address)
NAFEX web site:&nbsp;&nbsp; <a
href="http://www.nafex.org/";>http://www.nafex.org/</a></pre>
</blockquote>

<p>--
<p>===
<br>Canada plant hardiness zone 5b
<br>Southwest Ontario
<br>===
<br>&nbsp;
</body>
</html>

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