North American Fruit Explorers mailing list at ibiblio

["Doreen Howard" <doreenh@ticon.net>]

Tom,
When I lived on the Gulf Coast of Texas (elevation 4 inches), we had sticky
clay soil and a water table that was about 18 inches down.  You'd dig a hole
that deep and hit water.  Plus, the area averaged about 65 to 70 inches of
rain annually.  I planted ALL my fruit trees on mounds.  I'd dump top soil,
compost and peat into a pile.  Then I'd mix it with as much clay soil as I
could scrape up.  These mounds would be about 36 to 40 inches high by the
time I finished.  Don't let the height scare you, because the soil settles,
and the tree roots compact the mound.  I'd plant a tree in the middle of
each mound or a two trees in a long mound.  Then I'd mulch the mound
heavily.  The trees would get a good start and grow vigorously.  By the time
the tap roots worked their way down to the water table, there was a large
mass of feeder roots established in relatively dry mound soil.  This mass
sustained the tree and allowed it to flourish.  Roots that went deeper grew,
rotted and died in cycles, but there was always some action downward.
Meanwhile the feeder roots were there to sustain the tree.  The county
extension agent recommended this practice, as it was the only way fruits
like peaches, low chill apples and plums could survive.  Hope some of this
helps.
Doreen Howard
Wisconsin-Z4b, where it's finally Spring!  The dandelions have appeared.


----- Original Message -----
From: "Tom Olenio" <tolenio@sentex.net>
To: <nafex@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, March 30, 2002 7:51 AM
Subject: [nafex] Raised bed for fruit tree


> Hello,
>
> My topsoils is OK, but 12" down I hit hard, thick, rubbery
> clay.  Can I put a fruit tree in a raised bed 4'x4'x24"?
>
> Should the insides (except bottom) of the raised bed be
> lined in heavy plastic?
>
> What is optimal for a fruit tree in a raised bed?
> Constructing the bed using old oak pallets.
>
> Thanks,
> Tom
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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