North American Fruit Explorers mailing list at ibiblio

["Gordon Nofs" <gc_nofs@hotmail.com>]

Del
  The inner part of the graft or what I think your are calling sapwood is 
not sapwood never heals. It is The cambium that is the inner part of the 
bark is what calluses. And your yearly growth is only where your new 
strength builds up. That is why some good growths sometimes blow off. Or if 
in a second year you let two much fruit laden down the branch it will also 
snap off.

Gordon C. Nofs
Flint, Michigan
gc_nofs@hotmail.com

=================================================

----Original Message Follows----
From: "del stubbs" <pinewoodel@hotmail.com>
Reply-To: nafex@yahoogroups.com
To: nafex@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [nafex] grafting technique and ?'s
Date: Fri, 24 Aug 2001 02:58:23 +0000

budgrafting reply
Brian, On the rootstock sprouts that were 1/8" or under I found the bark way
too fragile to peel, and on wild choke cherry it seperated poorly even on
1/4 " stock. So I took a sharp knife and, trying to match the bud scion
dimension, I made a cut 1 to 2" long down the rootstock's new growth stem,
trying to not go deeper then 1/3 of the stem thickness. I could do grafts
down to 1/16" this way.
If these words don't work I could try a simple drawing and send as an
attachment privately. Del

Something I'd like to understand....When bark is cut (as opposed to peeled)
the scion has access to both sides of the cambium..... But when inserting a
bud under the bark only the outer side of the sapwood contacts the innerside
of the scion-bud stock.....so

Question?...when the bark is seperated is the cambium split in two equally
(so it doesn't matter which surface you try to join to)?
Or is the part that is attached to the bark, or the part attached to the
sapwood, the best for callusing and mating? Mn. Del




 >From: "Raby, Brian {20-4~Indianapolis}" <BRIAN.RABY@ROCHE.COM>
 >Del,
 >Sounds interesting since I have several varieties in the fridge that I
 >would
 >like to try and graft this summer/fall.  In your description in #3 below,
 >are you saying that you peeled the bark back off the rootstock, inserted
 >your variety behind it, then wrapped it..?
 >Thanks,
 >Brian
 >-----Original Message-----
 >From: del stubbs [mailto:pinewoodel@hotmail.com]

 >3. Just finished bud grafting various plums in the field. Many were quite
 >small caliper (including the rootstock). So instead of doing the normal T
 >cut and inserting the bud, I took a shaving down the rootstock stem,
 >leaving
 >
 >it attached. Then cut off the top third of the 'shaving' and inserted the
 >bud behind it. The 'shaving' held the bud nicely in place while beginning
 >to
 >
 >wrap it.Surely this isn't a new method, what would it be called?   Sure
 >worked easier for small stock.  Mn. Del



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