Skip to Content.
Sympa Menu

nafex - RE: [nafex] Planting Grafted Trees

nafex@lists.ibiblio.org

Subject: North American Fruit Explorers mailing list at ibiblio

List archive

Chronological Thread  
  • From: "Raby, Brian {20-4~Indianapolis}" <BRIAN.RABY@ROCHE.COM>
  • To: "'nafex@yahoogroups.com'" <nafex@yahoogroups.com>
  • Subject: RE: [nafex] Planting Grafted Trees
  • Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2001 13:34:56 -0400

Don,
 
Last year, I had ordered several benchgraft trees on Bud 9 from Bear Creek.  Several of them had scion wood that did not take.  I ordered more scion wood and tried my hand at chip budding.  One bud took, but has still not sprouted.  The others fell off and now I have Bud 9 trees growing.  Do I just allow them to grow this summer and try again at bud chipping this fall?  My thought was to make a stool bed, create more rootstock plants to transplant into my orchard, then starting scion wood grafting the following year.  Surely you or someone out there has run into this opportunity before.
 
Thanks for your help,
 
Brian
Sheridan, IN  where I'm about a month away from my first batch of strawberries!
-----Original Message-----
From: Don Yellman [mailto:dyellman@earthlink.net]
Sent: Friday, April 27, 2001 9:57 AM
To: nafex@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [nafex] Planting Grafted Trees

For Waite Maclin:

   Planting out grafted trees is a bit more complicated than just
leaving the graft 1-2 inches above the soil line, and I am surprised
this aspect of propagation was not covered in your grafting class.  BTW,
what rootstock were you grafting on?  This could influence how you want
to plant to achieve the final desired tree.  Let's assume that you were
using a "semi-dwarf" rootstock such as M-7:

1.  1-2 inches above the soil like is none too much to leave if you want
to avoid scion rooting.  Planting holes often subside with time and
rains, especially if you are adding some organic material (such as peat)
to the planting hole.  If you subsequently mulch your trees, you could
also cover the graft.  If you want a full-size standard tree, and have
room for it, just bury the graft.  I generally shoot for 4 inches above
the soil line, or more, when planting out trees on M-7 to achieve the
desired size control.

2.  The length of rootstock stem between the soil line and the graft
will influence the final size of the tree.  The more rootstock stem
exposed, the greater the degree of dwarfing induced by the rootstock.
Of course, your ability to make these adjustments at planting depends on
how high you placed the grafts on the rootstock stem.  Your grafting
instructor probably saw to it that you placed them at least 4-5 inches
above the point where roots actually begin on the stock.

3.  I believe that the influence of exposed rootstock stem on the size
of the tree is even more pronounced with fully dwarfing stock such as
M-9, M-26 and M-27.  Someone like Ed Fackler who has worked with these
things professionally would be able to tell you for sure, but it would
be helpful to know what rootstock you have, and how high you placed the
grafts on the stems.

Rgds, Don Yellman, Great Falls, VA



Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.

Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
www.debticated.com

Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.



Archive powered by MHonArc 2.6.24.

Top of Page