North American Fruit Explorers mailing list at ibiblio

["J. Rosano II" <GIANNI-2@prodigy.net>]

Hi Ginda:

Ginda Fisher wrote:
> 
> Thanks Gianni,
Your very welcome. Glad to be of service.... 
> > you may want to see if your soil is coolish,
> > if so, possibly put it over a register or a heating pad to warm the pot.
> 
> I have baseboard heating, right next to the pot.  Maybe that's another
> reason it does better in the winter?
>
> > Water is OK to really give
> > it a good soaking all the way down to the pan and let it sit with the 
> > water for
> > a couple of hours and then dump the excess. But it cannot stand to be wet 
> > for
> > any length of duration. If you have a really dry environment indoors maybe
> > the once a week water is OK, but while your into the later months and the
> > tree is now primarily indoors I would try to stretch the water to every 2
> > weeks or until you know when the pot is really, Really dry. The leaves 
> > will
> > curl and droop when it's asking to be watered.
> 
> Okay, I lied.  I intend to water all the houseplants weekly, but I often
> miss a week.  I will stop worrying about this for the lemon.  Thanks!
> 
> > Citrus also hates re-potting and you wanna try to choose a pot that is 
> > only
> > 1/3 larger than the root mass, they actually respond well to some 
> > bounding.
> 
> It's been in the same pot since I got it (3 years ago) and seems happy.
> I didn't intend to repot it any time soon.  (So I'm ignoring your advice
> about soil for now.)  I have been wondering when/if it ought to be
> repotted.  From your comments, I think, not too soon.
I am almost positive you may have more bounding than you want at this point, 
the citrus will respond to some bounding initially but if allowed to continue 
it
may be detrimental to the tree with binding and knotting of the root ball. you
may want to check the holes in the bottom to see if you have any roots 
working 
their way out the drain holes and this may be why you have only been able to
produce a few small fruits. To test, I would try to pull the tree out of the 
pot
by the trunk and see how much of the pot the root mass is inhabiting, if the 
mass
is literally using the entire pot, then it's time for a change or a root ball 
trim. 
> > I would hold back on the weekly feedings as this may be a problem since 
> > you
> > dropped leaves and may not be able to process the nutrients.
> 
> It hasn't dropped any leaves since last fall, when I brought it
> indoors.  Once it started to grow again, it grew nicely over the winter,
> and while it stopped growing, it didn't lose any leaves this summer.  It
> seems to be stirring again (warm roots and sunlight, you know).  Does
> this advice still hold?
As above if this tree is really bound then I suspect the treatment of 
fertilizer
has been what's been keeping this tree going. I repot my citrus twice a year 
just to 
trim, maintain, observe and make sure that the rhizosphere is doing what it 
should,
as container growing is limited to what you give it. The more you promote it, 
the
more you'll reap. I try to keep some of my trees trimmed in the rootball to 
within
1/4 to 1/3 less the pots diameter and always leaving a couple of inches or 
more
for growth on the very bottom. I have some trees pulled above the crown soil 
line
and the main roots above the soil harden off and become woody, if your tree is
healthy, it will respond.
> > I strongly suggest using an endomycorrhizal fungus especially with 
> > potting as
> > this process nearly always seems to thrive with potted plants/trees and 
> > just
> > about everything else too. The "Myco" takes stress of the tree as it 
> > works in
> > unison with the root ball and helps deliver microscopic nutrients to the
> > plant allowing it to get to the business of growing and producing. I have 
> > found
> > immeasurable benefit from using this in all my potted trees/plants. And 
> > once
> > the myco has become well established, any amendments or fertilizers you 
> > use
> > seem to be readily absorbed.
> 
> I bought some endomycorrhizal fungus starter two years ago, and have
> used it on my outdoor plantings.  I didn't notice any difference from
> what I would have expected - in either direction.  I think I put a bit
> of it in the pot last spring (or maybe last fall) and scratched it in a
> bit, but I wouldn't swear to it.  Would you try again?  Would you
> recommend a particular source?
Myco that has a minimum of 5 spores and upwards is good, the more the better 
as
some fungus works better than others with what your target plant is but myco 
does
absolutely no good whatsoever unless it is directly used in the root system.
The best time to apply it is during planting or re-potting/potting. The 
powdered
type although expensive can be fashioned to a coffee can with the lid punched 
some 
holes into and just a few shakes over the pot or target area for planting, 
making
direct contact with the root ball. It has to come in direct contact with your 
target
plant/s roots to be able to work correctly. Thereafter it will multiply from 
the root
ball outwards drawing in from all reaches back to the main root system 
multiplying 
the plants own ability to draw from cation and osmosis at an incredible rate 
that
your plant/tree could have never been able to do on it's own. For 
containerized
growing this is a fabulous way to increase productivity and reduce stress and
shock. I have tried a few different types. Powdered, granular, liquids. Each
manufacturer has it's own merits and I have had good success with all the ones
I have tried and I wouldn't be able to say which one is best as I am still
trialing and working through with what I have purchased in the past.
Generally, I am almost sure whichever one you opt for you will be pleased by
it's success for you.
You can also use a probe to deliver myco to your root ball.
> Thanks.  A friend who used to have a full sized Meyers lemon outside
> says that they seem to hjold their quality well long after they are
> ripe, which argues for holding out a bit longer.  When the second one
> turns completely yellow, I'm going to try it.  I think it's very
> exciting that I might be able to grow my own citrus in Massachusetts!!
Were living in an incredible time where horticultural advances and 
discoveries have allowed colder area growers to enjoy some of the joy growers 
do in in southern latitudes. Keep your eyes open, there is more cold hardy
citrus being worked on domestically that has been brought in from the orient
and other areas that shows promise. If it's citrus and it's cold hardy,
I want it yesterday!
> (Being poorly situated to shoot the squirrels, I plant to keep it
> indoors from now on.)
I stand them all outdoors next to a long stockade fence and drape a netting
over the whole deal, the chipmonks and squirrels cant get at them.
> Ginda Fisher
> Eastern Mass.  Zone 6
Enjoy that lemonade!

Best wishes,
Gianni

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