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[Josh Greenman <josh.greenman AT gmail.com>]

http://allafrica.com/stories/printable/200510170616.html

Tracking Gorillas, Our Genetic Cousins

New Vision (Kampala)
NEWS
October 16, 2005
Posted to the web October 17, 2005
Kampala

ALMOST everyone that I have talked to has said that spending an hour
with the gorillas is one of the most magical experiences of their
lives.

However, I must admit that I was not enthusiastic at first. Not when I
learnt that the trip would include of a full day of hiking uphill
through thick jungle. I was worried that I was too out of shape to see
them. but my worry subsided as my excitement to see them grew.

Bwindi Impenetrable National Park contains approximately half of the
world's 600 remaining mountain gorillas. There are three groups
(Mubare, Habinyanja and Rushegura) that visitors can see in the park
and one group (Nyakagezi) in Mgahinga Gorilla National Park.

Our permits were for the Mubare group, which, we were told when we
arrived, would not get us back to our residence, Buhoma Homestead,
until 3:00pm. We had been hoping for a shorter hike because we wanted
to have time to look for tree-climbing lions in Ishasha and get to
Mweya at a reasonable hour.

However, when we checked in at 7:45 the next morning we were told that
all groups were full and the chances of finding people to switch from
a close group to a far group were slim. I did not mind because by now
I had come to terms with the fact that I was going to be doing some
strenuous hiking all day and, to be honest, I was excited for the
day's adventure.

So when I found out that there was a couple that wanted to switch, I
was a little disappointed as I was finally mentally prepared for the
day ahead. However, I told myself that it is not the hike that you pay
for. It is the experience of being with the gorillas.

The Rushegura group assembled and were given a quick briefing by our
guide about the various rules that must be obeyed while in the park
and with the gorillas.

The excitement of the group was contagious and I soon forgot why I was
upset about being in the short group. We took off for a short hike up
a fairly small but steep hill.

I was already sweating and panting and could not imagine the state I
would have been in after hours of hiking. A half-hour went by when we
reached the 200-meter point where we put down our bags and walking
sticks, and got our cameras ready.

After another 10 minutes of walking through thick vegetation we caught
our first glimpse of the magnificent gorillas.

The Rushegura group consists of 12 gorillas and one silverback.

Within the first half hour we had seen all 13 which, according to our
guide, was particularly lucky.

The young gorillas were extremely entertaining to watch as they rode
on their mother's backs or terrorized some of the older gorillas. It
was incredible to watch them communicate and play with one another in
a manner that was almost identical to that of human interactions.

In one case, a mother gorilla dropped everything to catch her baby who
was falling out of a tree and most likely would have hit the ground.
When this particular event happened, our whole group let out a
collective squeal even though we had been told to keep our voices to a
minimum. Personally, I found it extremely difficult to contain my
excitement with the gorillas so close.

Our group was extremely sad when the gorilla experience came to an
end. There were even members of the group that were crying because of
the incredible and rare experience that they had shared with our
closest kin of mammal. I was not crying but I was definitely
speechless after the experience.

Honestly, as cliché as it sounds, I do not think that words can truly
express the experience of seeing gorillas in their natural habitat.
Gorilla tracking in Bwindi Impenetrable National Forest is an
experience that I will never get tired of talking about as long as
there are people who want to listen.