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[David Shaari <dshaari AT nature.berkeley.edu>]

http://www.nytimes.com/2004/05/03/international/africa/03cong.html

KINSHASA JOURNAL 
The Gentlest of Beasts, Making Love, Ravaged by War
By SOMINI SENGUPTA

Published: May 3, 2004


INSHASA, Congo - Upstream from this dog-eat-dog capital, where the Congo 
River spills its tendrils into the belly of the equatorial rain forest, lies 
the jungle home of one of mankind's closest cousins and one of the most 
endangered primates on earth: the bonobo.

Genetically, humans and bonobos, a species of chimpanzee, are more than 98 
percent similar. Socially, it is another matter. Matriarchal as a rule, 
bonobos eschew conflict. They do not fight over territory. They do not kill. 
Any small friction they resolve through sexual contact: a playful rub, oral 
sex, full intercourse. 
 
Peace-loving they may be, but during Congo's latest war, the bonobos' jungle 
habitat fell smack on the front line between fighting factions.

Fishing and farming all but ground to a halt during the war, which officially 
ended last year. Civilians and soldiers alike turned to the forest to fill 
their bellies.

More and more, the bonobos turned up as supper. Their smoked remains showed 
up at riverine markets. Babies were orphaned, which is to say they were more 
or less destined to die: the bonobo infant, accustomed to staying on its 
mother's back for the first several years of life, has great trouble making 
it on its own.

So it was that the bonobo orphans of the central African rain forest found 
themselves hurtling hundreds of miles down the Congo River to this gritty 
metropolis and into the arms of a redheaded Frenchwoman called Claudine André.

Ms. André recalls it as love at first sight. More than 10 years ago, after a 
famous, ruinous pillage of Kinshasa, Ms. André, then a businesswoman, went to 
the ravaged city zoo and chanced upon a bereft infant bonobo. He looked as 
though he wanted to die, she recalled. She named him Mikano, took him home 
and became, in her words, his surrogate mother.

When the war came, more orphans trickled in. She kept them on the grounds of 
an elite American school. Then, last year, when peace came, she opened Lola 
Ya Bonobo, a sanctuary for orphaned bonobos on a 75-acre patch of green on 
the fringes of the capital. 

Infants are paired up with surrogate mothers. There is an endless supply of 
bananas and sugar cane (bonobos have an incurable sweet tooth). An electric 
fence encircles the park, so as to keep the apes from scampering out of the 
woods and into Kinshasa's traffic. The park is open to visitors. 

On a Sunday afternoon not long ago, the park's 31 young charges did what 
young bonobos do: chewed on blades of grass, swung from palm fronds, kissed, 
frolicked and fondled. 

"It's the hippies of the forest," Ms. André said, taking their wrinkled hairy 
hands in hers. "When they feel anxious, when they are afraid, they have sex. 
And they calm down." 

As if on cue, a big bonobo mounted a small bonobo. They rolled around on the 
grass, rubbed against each other and went on their merry ways. 

Bonobos are not proprietary about mates, and sex is not always about 
procreation. Homosexuality is au courant, and sexual play begins when they 
are barely a year old, though intercourse must wait until they are teenagers. 
Much to Ms. André's delight, a teenage orphan, a male, arrived recently. 
Hopefully, she said, mating will soon begin. 

"It's really make love, not war," Ms. André said of the bonobo way of life. 
"It was so sad to see such a pacific animal so destroyed by war."

The plight of the bonobos, a species found only in Congo, is a window into 
the repercussions of war on the ecology of the Congo River Basin, one of the 
most diverse ecosystems in the world and home to more than 400 species of 
mammals. Mining, logging and a sustained trade in bush meat have all put the 
squeeze on their habitats. 

War having made vast swaths of the country inaccessible to researchers, it is 
impossible to know precisely how these creatures have fared. Certain habitats 
may have been left untouched, others devoured. 

In the Virunga Highlands near the border of Uganda and Rwanda, the mountain 
gorilla population has grown, according to a census by the Wildlife 
Conservation Society. By contrast, in the Kahuzi-Biega National Park, the 
eastern lowland gorilla's population has fallen by 70 percent to fewer than 
5,000, according to Conservation International. The elephants in the same 
park may well have vanished.

As for the bonobo population, scientists have no reliable numbers but fear 
the species may be nearing extinction. Late last year, the United Nations 
Environment Program reported that the bonobo, along with the gorilla, 
chimpanzee and orangutan, could disappear in 50 years.

Peace is likely to present a new challenge to forest dwellers: Congo's rain 
forests have once again opened up to logging companies, and today the first 
batches of timber can be seen floating downriver from Équateur Province to 
the port here in Kinshasa. With blessings from the World Bank, 150 million 
acres of rain forest could be opened up for logging.

As the World Bank sees it, timber concessions could pour hundreds of millions 
of dollars into government coffers. Environmentalists fear that the logging 
could also endanger the habitat of the Pygmy people, who have eked out a 
living in the forest for centuries. The bonobos are sometimes called Pygmy 
chimpanzees, because Pygmies too are averse to conflict; they too prefer to 
hunt and forage in the forest rather than fight one another for territory. 
United Nations investigators suspect that some of them had been eaten during 
the war too.