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  • From: John Ehrlich <johnkaty AT shaw.ca>
  • To: Market Farming <market-farming AT lists.ibiblio.org>
  • Subject: Re: [Market-farming] Greenhouse heating
  • Date: Tue, 8 Feb 2011 06:33:25 -0800

Couldnt you cover some of the sensitive crops on colder nights to avoid
freezing?

The on demand outdoor propane furnace is 1500 in Ontario.

It is about 1000 for a forced air propane unit, but the efficiency is less, I
assume.


On 2011-02-08, at 6:24 AM, sunnfarm AT netscape.com wrote:

> A professionally designed system the water temp going in will be the same
> coming out. The whole idea of bottom heat is temperature uniformity. On my
> bench top system the in and out temps hold at 120 degrees. Remember your
> not creating one big loop but many small loops from a common manifold...
> Bob.
>
> --- thamnophis AT gmail.com wrote:
>
> From: Thamnophis <thamnophis AT gmail.com>
> To: Market Farming <market-farming AT lists.ibiblio.org>
> Subject: Re: [Market-farming] Greenhouse heating
> Date: Mon, 7 Feb 2011 23:50:18 -0600
>
> If the water was 140F going in, how log was the tube and and what was
> the water temp coming out?
>
> Did you pack the sand in tight? (less air space would equal less
> insulation [dead air space] and more heat absorption into the sand)
>
> (I'm curious because I'm thinking of setting up something similar and
> realize there is a lot of math involved!)
>
> Joe
>
>
> On 2/4/11, Jason Bomkamp <grt4kids AT hughes.net> wrote:
>> I experimented with in floor heat this past fall. I used 1/2 inch pex
>> tubing at 10" spacing throughout the floor. I had 2" polystyrene
>> under it and 6" of sand over that. My water temp was around 140
>> degrees. My results were very disappointing though. My tomatoes
>> froze last fall when it got down to around 20 outside, I was hoping
>> for better results. If someone knows some tricks to this I'm all ears.
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