Bill, you have NO idea how helpful this was! It explains all the
"onion mysteries" we've had here over the years. Thank you!
Kathryn (Allium-challenged) Kerby
Frog Chorus Farm
Snohomish, WA
In a message dated 2/23/2010 6:14:27 A.M. Pacific Standard Time,
wshoemak AT illinois.edu writes:
We have
one of the oldest onion set industries in the country in northern Illinois,
near Kankakee. Over time I've learned how they do it. Kind of strange but
it makes sense once you understand how they do it.
First, you are
trying to create very small bulbs. The smaller, the better. Let me explain.
When you buy onion sets, you often see most of them are about 1/2" in
diameter. Those are best used as green onions because they are big enough
to bolt. So plant them very close together and plan on harvesting them
early as your first green onions (scallions). Those that are 1/4"
or smaller in diameter will be much less likely to bolt and will grow
into small, early dry bulbs. They're less physiologically advanced! They
won't get to be huge, so don't count on them for that. Instead, use them
for early bulbs, even bunched green bulbs. They're very good for that
purpose. So onion sets have a much different Best Use than onion plants.
Remember, onions are biennials. They want to flower after
overwintering. So large onion sets will always flower. You can break off
the flower stems, but don't count on big bulbs. Small onion sets can bulb
reliably but will not make really big bulbs, certainly not like
direct-seeded onions or onion plants. Each approach is valid, but has a
different purpose in the end. And like Shawnee Flowerfarmer said, they are
daylight sensitive, so make sure you pick the right variety for your area
of the country. In the north you want varieties that are long daylength
(short nights. They will begin to bulb when nights get short). In the
north, that's in June (so plant early!). If you are growing in the south,
plant short daylength varieties (Granex types are an example). They will
begin to bulb during longer nights, earlier in the Spring. But you will
plant much earlier in the year so the plants can get well-established and
grow big shoots to feed the bulbs as they grow.
Okay, back to growing
sets (which CAN be used to grow seed). To grow the sets the year before
growing them out for seed, plant seed early in the season (April Fool's Day
in Chicago. No kidding, No coincidence). Plant them in shallow furrows
REALLY THICK. I mean 12-24 seeds per inch of furrow. The reason is you are
essentially letting them get started, but not letting them thrive. Grow
them out very thickly and they will stay very small. They will eventually
form small bulbs because they will grow normally but under intense
competition. As hot-dry days occur in July and August, they will go into
dormancy. Dislodge them from their roots after tops dry down. You can just
use your hand to shove them aside and they will dry down nicely in place.
Put them in trays and put them somewhere they can finish drying. Be sure to
pick up the smallest ones. They will grow into nice onions next Spring.
Remove debris and excess dirt.
Once they've dried down, they can be
cleaned up by brushing off the loose layers of skin and bagging them in
something well-aerated. Netted bags or nylon hose works fine. Store them
somewhere very cool (35F) and dry till planting time next Spring. Separate
them for their distinct uses and plant accordingly.
That's the
kernel of the idea behind growing onion sets. There's more to be said but
not enough time/space here. But this should give you the basics and enough
for success.
One other pointer. If you have a variety you really like
and want to make lots of sets, look at bulk onion seed prices. It's amazing
how much cheaper they are per unit when you buy in bulk. If you can buy
with others and buy bigger quantities, you can save
money.
Bill
-----Original Message----- From:
market-farming-bounces AT lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:market-farming-bounces AT lists.ibiblio.org]
On Behalf Of Bobbett Sent: Monday, February 22, 2010 9:40 PM To:
market-farming AT lists.ibiblio.org Subject: Re: [Market-farming] growing
onion sets
Road's End Farm wrote:
> > On Feb 22, 2010,
at 2:26 PM, Bobbett wrote: > >> Normally I grow my own plants,
and this year I'm making a diligent >> effort to save my own seed (I
did it last yr, but the seed was mixed; >> this year I aim to keep it
separated and not cross pollinated). > > > How many plants
did you save seed from?
8-10; btw, I'm NOT having any problems
with the seeds. It's just an experiment w/ some of the onions I
found growing in my root cellar that I had stored over winter.
I'm
interested in saving my own seeds year after year and not relying on
stores. So, can u or anyone tell me how to grow sets? When the
seeds should be planted for sets. When I do I dig up the small
onions? How do I store them over winter?, etc.
> >
I use new onion seed every year if possible; but if something arrives
> late, I've found that very often the previous year's onion seed
will > give me enough starts if I seed it a little heavily.
Yes, I've done that too, but my aim is to save my own seed and save
plenty of it so I have it fresh each year and don't have to rely on
store bought or old seeds.
> > > You're further
south than I am, but I think with onions the solstice > is more
crucial, and that's not going to vary: this is the week I >
usually seed my onions, and I've gotten a nice crop from seed not
> started till the first couple days of March. So you may not be
too > late to start them yet.
Well, I normally seed my
onions indoors in mid-January (which I've already done). I have
about 250 plants that will go outside around the time I direct-seed my
peas. I've never had any problems getting good-sized onions in mid-summer
from this routine.
What I was interested in knowing is if there is a
particularly good method for storing 1yo onion seeds to keep them fresh as
possible. And if not, how do I use those seeds to make sets to
bare/bear (?) me more seeds next year to use the following
year.
Bobbett, KY/zone
6
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