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  • From: pam AT twinoaks.org
  • To: market-farming AT lists.ibiblio.org
  • Subject: [Market-farming] More on Strawberry Questions
  • Date: Thu, 21 Aug 2003 21:40:56 -0400

Thanks Bob from Sunny Meadow, for your response. I know
commercial growers are using annual strawberries on
plasticulture, but I'm reluctant to use that much plastic. Mind
you, I'm attracted to the benefits, at the same time! I think for
this year at least, I'd like to try the two-year method, with
organic mulch. Thanks Marie and Alison for the Chandler
supplier info and encouragement. Does anyone else have
suggestions? (My questions follow Bob's reply here):
Bob said:
>I don't know anybody growing traditional matted bed berries
anymore. A few years ago everyone switched to growing
annual berries. The Chandler variety is number one, planted
in the fall on fresh clean soil, covered with row covers in
December, harvested in spring then plowed under. No
need to fuss with weeding all summer and less danger of
disease or insect buildup. Sweet Charley is an early version of
Chandler but very sensitive to frost. Harvest season for
Chandler is about three weeks. They are sensitive to
"fascination" after a cold winter, this year local
yields even with the dark wet weather were up to 14000
pounds per acre...Bob.
Sunny Meadow Farm
Bridgeton, NJ.

pam AT twinoaks.org wrote:

> We grow 1400' organic strawberries (more than one
> variety), and have been replacing one quarter of the
> rows each fall. We don't like the quantity of weeding
> and thinning this involves. This spring one patch all
> but drowned. We're going to use this opportunity to try
> switching to replacing plants after 2 seasons. I have
> several questions I'm looking for help on.
> 1. I read that you should avoid growing strawberries where
nightshades were growing previously (to avoid spreading
Verticillium Wilt). Our new strawberry patches usually follow
sweet corn undersown with soy, which fits nicely within the
recommended previous crops (grasses, brassicas, legumes).
What about growing tomatoes and peppers in the year
following the strawberries?? We'd till in the strawberries in
June, after 2 years of fruiting, grow summer cover crops,
plant rye and hairy vetch in early September, and do organic
no-till tomatoes the next year. Is this risky?
> 2. How would I recognise Verticillium Wilt from all
the other ills that tomatoes are prone to in a humid climate?
(We're in zone 6b in central Virginia). Are there any good
resources to distinguish diseases?
> 3. We often propagate from our own plants, transplanting
runners in October. Could I do this earlier (zone 6b)?
September? Late August? We have overhead irrigation only
at this point.
> 4. I've read of planting out "dormant root plants" in late
summer. What are these? Could I dig up runners now and
refrigerate them until planting time?
> Any help with these questions would be appreciated.
> Thanks,
> Pam Dawling, Twin Oaks Community, Louisa, VA






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