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  • From: "Paul A. Bock" <bockpa AT plesh.com>
  • To: "'Market Farming'" <market-farming AT lists.ibiblio.org>
  • Subject: RE: [Market-farming] Tree climbing spurs.
  • Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2003 07:58:04 -0400

Chuck,
 
    I used to work for a residential tree service, so I know what you mean about getting limbs off from your roof.  We used to use ropes quite a bit.  We would have a lowering line rigged up into a high crotch in the tree and the loose end would be tie to the offending branch.  Then the climber would cut the branch and the ground-man could control the branch with the rope.  Depending on the angles involved and where the center of mass of the branch was that you were cutting you could get those things to swing free from all sorts of hazards, like house roofs (especially gutters), and pools, etc.  Controlled descent is a nice feature of working with ropes. 
    Like someone else said get tree gaffs not pole gaffs.  And try to keep your knees bent so that you maintain about a 30-45 degree angle with the tree.  When I first learned I wanted to hug the tree.  If you get one really stuck in the tree the way you get it out is to move your leg up against the tree it will force the spur out the tree.  This also works when you hug the tree, the spike can't grab in and it makes for an interest few moments. 
    If you are using a chainsaw you might want to get a three foot lead rope on it with a clip so that you can clip it to the climbing harness.  It is nice to be able to get that thing out of the way sometimes.  I usually climb with the chainsaw on the ground.  Then I pull up the chainsaw with my climbing line or my lowering line.  Less weight when climbing.  It is also handy if you drop your saw.  The saw will drop maybe three feet instead of 50 and break into a pile of useless parts.  Though I have seen several quality saws drop from 50 feet and be fine.  
    I highly recommend a good helmet.  One with a screen visor.  It will keep the sawdust out of your eyes better than safety glasses.  Good hearing protection is good too.  
    I personally prefer to climb with a rope than with spikes.  Your hands are free all of the time and there are techniques for climbing the rope using the strength of your feet.  I always end up with cramped legs and feet from climbing with spikes.  And climbing with a rope is better for the tree.  I feel I have more mobility in the tree with a rope technique.  I can tie in at a particular crotch and then push off and swing to a different stem of the tree.  and if I need to I can tie in to a new spot on the tree and take out my old tie in.  Lets you move around the tree with ease.   
    Get a book called "tree climber's companion"  It talks about all the proper equipment and techniques.  I order all my stuff through a company called arbor direct.  They are online.  
 
Paul    
 

 

-----Original Message-----
From: market-farming-bounces AT lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:market-farming-bounces AT lists.ibiblio.org]On Behalf Of Chuck Evans
Sent: Monday, June 16, 2003 8:27 PM
To: Market Farming
Subject: Re: [Market-farming] Tree climbing spurs.

Practice on short limbs first.  Always use a climbing belt, and stay belted off.  The belt will need to be unhooked to get it over limbs when you climb.  This is when most accidents occur.  Remember, the farther your upper body is from the tree, the better the lineman hooks dig in, so DON'T HUG THE TREE, or the hooks will cut out, and you will fall.  Make sure someone is around when you are climbing, in case you get into trouble.  Most of all, BE CAREFUL!!!
 
Good Luck,
 
Chuck
  Hi all...does anyone have any experiance climbing trees with lineman spurs and belt...and limbing said trees. I have a bunch of trees around the edge of my yard that I want to remove...am afraid of dropping them on my house..:-) Thought I would purchase some spurs and a belt...climb the trees and limb them...then take down the trunks. I have at least fifty trees that measure about 12 to 18 inches in diameter that are going. Any thoughts?  Franklin  


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