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  • From: Marlin L Burkholder <gleneco1 AT juno.com>
  • To: market-farming AT franklin.oit.unc.edu
  • Subject: Staking Tomatoes
  • Date: Thu, 1 Mar 2001 23:56:07 -0500



Having read a number of recent posts concerning staking of tomatoes I
have noted that some of them look like they might be labor intensive to
set up and use more material than necessary. I have decided to share a
bit about what works for me.

I use what I call a modified Florida Weave system for my main crop which
is seeded in mid March and transplanted in mid May. I plant a 2 1/2
within row spacing and place stakes midway between two plants leaving two
plants between stakes. This gives me 5' between stakes.
At the row ends I drive a steel T post with the nubs facing into the row
and drive another T post with the nubs pointing towards the ground at
about a 45-60 degree angle so that the top of this post will notch under
one of the nubs on the end post when the end post is bent back slightly.
The resulting tension holds them together securely without the need for
wire or any special connectors. This brace post can be an old broken T
post that always breaks at ground level and can always be found lying
around any farm.

Beginning when the transplants are big enough to start falling over, I
run a sissal baler twine (no plastic) about 6-8" above ground going first
down one side of the row and then the other looping the twine around the
stakes and pulling it comfortably tight at each stake. I never could
make the weave work well so I just go straight from stake to stake making
the loop so that the string always comes around to the outside of the
stake on my side of the row. I repeat this process about once weekly
leaving about 8" between strings until I get about 6 runs on or to the
tops of the stakes, whichever comes first. I used to use 1" x 1" wooden
line stakes but I have had trouble with them rotting and getting weak
enough to break at ground level after a few season's use. All it takes
is a few weak stakes and a brisk side wind to put a whole row down domino
fashion. After several seasons running with this problem, I'm shifting
over to using all steel T posts which can be bought locally for under
$2.00 per post. With all the posts alike and no problems with bent
stakes or uneven thicknesses, I can slap them in quickly with one
homemade driver. When the crop is finished, I go down the rows, shearing
the strings off the sides of the posts with a few whacks of a sharp
machete. The essence of this system is the simplicity and speed of
putting it up and taking it down.

I plant mostly vigorous determinate early varieties seeded in mid
February and transplant into black plastic a week or two before the
average last frost date. I cover the row with bent 8' lengths of
concrete reenforcing metal forming a 4' wide by 2' high tunnel over the
row. If freezing weather threatens, I cover this with heavy duty
reenforced row cover. When the danger of frost is past and the plants
are beginning to push through the wire tunnel, I remove the row cover and
allow them to grow upwards and to sprawl over the top of the wire. I
like this system because it goes up fast, requires no mid season
maintenance (tying and stringing) and the same amount of material
required to make a tomato cage makes a 5' section of tunnel which
supports two plants. When taken down the open sided pieces of wire can
be stacked.

Marlin Burkholder
Glen Eco Farm
from the central Shenandoah Valley of Virginia

" Concerning most controversial issues, the truth is to be found
somewhere between what the extremists on either end are shouting, and is
usually spoken quietly and with conviction. It is up to us to find that
truth and to act upon it."

"'Truth' is 'truth' regardless of whether or not you, or I, or anyone
else, will believe it."

"Do not my friend, apply to me the labels 'conservative', 'moderate', or
'liberal'. I only ask you to allow me the freedom to be conservative
when I need to be conservative and to be liberal when I need to be
liberal."

(authors unknown)




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