Market Farming

[Mary Hoelterhoff <maryspiral AT juno.com>]

>Subject: Help with irrigation and mulch
>From: "Rose & Fred Lieberman" <pyrite AT clarityconnect.com>
>Date: Sat, 29 Jan 2000 07:29:31 -0800
>X-Message-Number: 2
>
>Two topics I need clarity on:  Irrigation and Mulches.
>
Hi Rose,

i irrigate with drip, a two acre mixed veggie and flower garden, from a
100' deep,
2gallon/a minute  Well that has a submersible pump.

You can control how much you can water at a time by how many zones you
create.

For example: The field I garden in is over 500' long; I divided it in
half. One zone is running 250' to the south the other 250' to the north.
I use 1 1/2" Flat Tube($34/150') as the main line, with a shut- off valve
at the beginning of each of the two lines. So i can water the south of
the field at one time or the north at one time. 

the dripline is connected to the flat tube by way of drip tape fittings.
I use a fitting with a valve (.40" Barb X Tape Loc w/Valve $1.65 each), 
so that i can further divide each bed into a zone. In that way i can
water beds individually. i.e. tomato bed needs watering but the beets
with the mulch don't. When we're in a drought, i'll  water 1-3 beds at a
time.

I also use a tensiometer.....though expensive $46.59, it is a handy tool
for telling me when or how long to water. I place the meter in the middle
length of my tomato bed, when the gauge reads above  40+....i will water
till it reads 10.  The ideal is between 15-25, a reading of 0 = Wet .  
(it's all based on negative pressure)

When i was looking for irrigation supplies....i searched for the closest
local sources. i talked to a small comercial grower who told me where he
got his stuff....who ended up being another farmer who sold produce
supplies on the side....his mark-up is low and he gives good advise based
on his own experience. 

if you need more info let me know.

Mary Hoelterhoff
Blue Skink Farm CSA
Monticello, Ky 42633
maryspiral AT juno.com
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