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- From: "Tradingpost" <tradingpost@lobo.net>
- To: livingontheland@lists.ibiblio.org
- Subject: [Livingontheland] Rules to Eat By
- Date: Sun, 31 Jan 2010 07:20:50 -0700
Rules to Eat By
http://www.nytimes.com/2009/10/11/magazine/11food-rules-t.html?_r=1
BY MICHAEL POLLAN
Published: October 6, 2009
Every trip to the supermarket these days requires us to navigate what has
become a truly treacherous food landscape. I mean, what are we to make of a
wonder of food science like the new Splenda with fiber? (The great sweet
taste you want and a little boost of fiber.) Should we call this progress?
Is it even food? And then, at the far other end of the nutritional spectrum,
how are we to process (much less digest) the new, exuberantly caloric Double
Down sandwich that KFC has introduced? This shameless exaltation of dietary
fat actually redefines the very concept of a sandwich by replacing the
obligatory bread with two slabs of fried chicken kept some distance apart by
strips of bacon, two kinds of cheese and a dollop of sauce.
Deciding what to eat, indeed deciding what qualifies as food, is not easy in
such an environment. When Froot Loops can earn a Smart Choices check mark, a
new industrywide label that indicates a products supposed healthfulness, we
know we cant rely on the marketers, with their dubious health claims, or for
that matter on the academic nutritionists who collaborate on such labeling
schemes. (One of them defended the inclusion of Froot Loops on the grounds
that they are better for you than doughnuts. So why doesnt the label simply
say that?) Making matters worse, official government pronouncements about
eating arent necessarily much more reliable, not when the food industry
influences federal nutrition guidelines. But even when the best science
prevails, that science can turn out to be misguided as when the official
campaign against saturated fat got us to trade butter for stick margarine
loaded with trans fats, a solution that turned out to be worse than the
problem.
If we cant rely on the marketers or the government or even the nutritionists
to guide us through the supermarket woods, then who can we rely on? Well, ask
yourself another question: How did humans manage to choose foods and stay
healthy before there were nutrition experts and food pyramids or breakfast
cereals promising to improve your childs focus or restaurant portions bigger
than your head? We relied on culture, which is another way of saying: on the
accumulated wisdom of the tribe. (Which is itself another way of saying: on
your mom and your friends.) All of us carry around rules of thumb about
eating that have been passed down in our families or plucked from the
cultural conversation. Think of this body of food knowledge as samizdat
nutrition: an informal, unsanctioned way of negotiating our eating lives that
becomes indispensable at a time when official modes of talking about food
have suffered a serious loss of credibility.
Earlier this year I began gathering examples of these rules, or personal food
policies, for a short book Im publishing in January. My premise is that for
all the authority we grant to science in matters of nutrition, culture still
has a lot to teach us about how to choose, prepare and eat food, and that
this popular wisdom is worth preserving perhaps today more than ever, in
this era of dazzling food science, supersize portions and widespread dietary
confusion.
In March, I posted a request for readers rules about eating on Well, Tara
Parker-Popes health blog on nytimes.com. Within days, I received more than
2,500 responses more than any Well post had ever received. My aim was to
collect genuinely useful, and nutritionally sound, examples of popular wisdom
about eating. I found some for my book, but I also found something else a
banquet of food policies that even when they made little, if any, nutritional
sense (and therefore didnt belong in the book) nevertheless opened a window
on our current thinking about food: the stories we tell ourselves, the games
we play and the taboos we invoke to organize our eating lives. Some of the
rules have stood the test of time and have been confirmed by science, but all
of them have something to teach us about our continuing efforts to pick a
healthful and happy path through the minefields of the modern-food
marketplace or restaurant menu.
Post your own food rules here, and read my favorites here.
http://www.nytimes.com/interactive/2009/10/11/magazine/20091011-foodrules.html
- [Livingontheland] Rules to Eat By, Tradingpost, 01/31/2010
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