[permaculture] Bermuda grass, options, etc.

Don Titmus ujgs2 at 4dirs.com
Fri Jun 22 11:26:27 EDT 2007


One was left out.
I will not recommend this strategy but It needs to be considered. Why 
because it has less impact than some of the others, and of your current use 
of the computer you are now using and conviently overlook

to solarise you must first loosen the soil.
plastic sheeting kills all organisms 6 - 8  in deep
Over crops dont work (unlees you do so for years)
chickens dont till deep enough
weed block fabric is easily pierced

all are labour intensive

Bill talks about the appropriate use of technology. some chemicals are toxic 
and residul others not...depends on the "Half" life. Folks use pyrethems and 
Kill aphids, natural yes toxic to some animals YES. So the delemer is what 
has least impact for the most effectiveness.

so now to the "G" word...gylphosphate salts, You cannot get emotionally 
locked up to not use a good tool because it has been abused by idiots.  I 
say "Lets ban the chain saw" we have global deforestation therefore its the 
chainsaw that need banning!!!  Stupid  !!!

Use the right tool the correct way and have "Least effect for the greatest 
yeild".

So use Glyphosphate and follow with Compost Tea and Accumilators, hot 
compost the material and your field is clear in one season, all chems are 
gone and can be followed by a crop

(Compost Tea and Accumilators = bio-remediation turned around as part of a 
strategy)

So go ahead ban you chain saw, your computor, your car, your tractor, your 
TV, your PVC piping, your rockdust, your eye surgery, your.....

don (one foot on the edge, and the other in the middle)


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Steve Diver" <steved at ipa.net>
To: <permaculture at lists.ibiblio.org>
Sent: Friday, June 22, 2007 7:01 AM
Subject: [permaculture] Crabgrass, Bermuda grass, etc.


> Early agricultural literature used the common
> name of "Devil's Grass" to describe bermudagrass
> for a reason.... it is a tenacious perennial
> grassy weed that spreads and spreads.
>
> Digging up rhizomes is too labor intensive and
> it doesn't even control bermudagrass since it
> comes back real easy from broken root pieces.
>
> There are several reliable ways to control bermudagrass
> through non-synthetic chemical methods.
>
> These have been discussed on this list and
> through the technical literature of ATTRA.
>
> *Clear plastic mulch as solarization.
>
> *Black plastic mulch to block-out light
>
> *Geotextile weed barrier to block-out light
>
> *Sheet mulch that combines cardboard with a
> top organic mulch to block-out light; absolutely
> do not let grassy edges to creep back across
> the top or thru the mulch.
>
> *A sequence of shade-producing cover crops and
> tillage, in multiple sequences over one or two
> growing seasons, to disrupt and shade-out and
> smother-out the grass.
>
> *Green chemistry herbicides (acetic acid, citric
> acid, etc) and/or thermal weed control devices
> (infra-red or steam) to knock back grass on edges
> of mulch.
>
> *Place a chicken tractor over a patch of ground
> and encourage eradication of vegetation for three
> months.
>
> *Use a weed eater with rubber blades to periodically
> cut rhizomes and stolons that want to creep back
> into a grass-free growing area such as beds
> or gardens, then follow with a wheel hoe operation
> to disrupt any root pieces running thru the soil.
> This is managed as a bare strip of soil about 3-4'
> wide between turf and garden.
>
> The block-out mulch methods will take about
> 2-3 months; the aim is to completely deplete root
> reserves and/or set them back severely. Solarization
> takes about 6-8 weeks.   A sequence of shade-producing
> cover crops and tillage can take two full growing seasons,
> but can be effective on large acreages managed with
> a tractor.
>
> These methods will work if you follow the principles
> and whip it good, then keep it out.
>
> Good luck,
> Steve Diver
>
>
>
>
>
>
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