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  • From: "Harrick, Barbara (N-Kelly Services)" <barbara.harrick@lmco.com>
  • To: nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
  • Subject: [NAFEX] Magnesium source
  • Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2006 11:15:09 -0600

I use Epsom salts when I start seeing magnesium deficiency on my
mandarin orange. I have also read that Epsom salts help with fruit set
as well.

Barbara

Barbara Harrick
Publications Technical Editor
International Launch Services
1660 International Drive, Suite 700
McLean, VA 22102 USA
Phone - 571-633-7494
Fax - 571-633-7541

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-----Original Message-----
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Sent: Tuesday, June 27, 2006 12:01 PM
To: nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
Subject: nafex Digest, Vol 41, Issue 55

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Today's Topics:

1. Reply: Netting and bagging report for apples, plums, and
cherries, and peaches (sherwindu)
2. Jim's Red Beads for Birds (Jim Fruth)
3. Jim's Red Beads for Birds (Jim Fruth)
4. Re: Leaves curling and folding (Dennis Norton)
5. Leaves curling and folding (Jim Fruth)
6. sources potassium or magnesium? (Thomas Olenio)
7. Re: Leaves curling and folding (David Doud)
8. amelanchier drainage (M Stanton)


----------------------------------------------------------------------

Message: 1
Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2006 01:13:35 -0500
From: sherwindu <sherwindu@comcast.net>
Subject: [NAFEX] Reply: Netting and bagging report for apples, plums,
and cherries, and peaches
To: nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
Message-ID: <44A0CC8F.70450615@comcast.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

I have good success with 'no-see-um' insect netting. A cheaper,
quicker, but
not as
good protector would be zip lock sandwich bags with a slot cut out to
drain
water.
I have a combination of both on my apple and selected clusters of the
sour
cherry.
Works good for me. Cut a square of the netting and thread a thin wire
around
the
perifery. Cinch it up with a twist tie and attach the free ends to a
conveniently close
branch. If the fruit falls, the net will catch it. Only rarely will a
critter
bite through or
tear the netting.



------------------------------

Message: 2
Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2006 06:54:35 -0500
From: Jim Fruth <jfruth@uslink.net>
Subject: [NAFEX] Jim's Red Beads for Birds
To: <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
Message-ID: <C0C686AB.2ECF%jfruth@uslink.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"

Mark,
In my opinion, growing grass is a waste of time and money. I make my
living
off 1.5 acres and the only grass is on the boulevard alongside the road.
But as for wires being picked up by the wheels of a lawnmower, I cannot
imagine how that could happen.
--

Jim Fruth
Brambleberry Farm
Pequot Lakes, MN
www.bberryfarm.com
Jams, Jellies and Syrups
(218)568-8483 [Store]
(218)831-7018 [My cell]

Jim,

I read about you tricking the birds in Pomona and got a chuckle. It's a
clever idea. But how do you keep from picking up the loose "berry"
wires in
lawnmower tires?

Mark Angermayer
Zone 5 Kansas



------------------------------

Message: 3
Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2006 06:59:51 -0500
From: Jim Fruth <jfruth@uslink.net>
Subject: [NAFEX] Jim's Red Beads for Birds
To: <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
Message-ID: <C0C687E7.2ED0%jfruth@uslink.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"

Tom,
Birds are not dummies. If you want to fool the birds, whatever you
hang
in the trees had better do a good job of mimicking the real thing. If
whatever you use will fool a human, you can expect it will work on the
birds.
--

Jim Fruth
Brambleberry Farm
Pequot Lakes, MN
www.bberryfarm.com
Jams, Jellies and Syrups
(218)568-8483 [Store]
(218)831-7018 [My cell]

Hello,

What about those strung, red beads that go on Christmas trees?

Cripes, even a strand of silver or gold strung beads could be spray
painted red.

Would be easier to put on and take off. Would they work though?

Tom




------------------------------

Message: 4
Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2006 07:09:48 -0500
From: "Dennis Norton" <dmnorton@royaloakfarmorchard.com>
Subject: Re: [NAFEX] Leaves curling and folding
To: "North American Fruit Explorers" <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
Message-ID: <001701c699e2$98dce5b0$6401a8c0@DellXPS400>
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
reply-type=original

Sounds like you masy have fire blight. After hail storm damage,
streptomycin should be sprayed immediately to reduce infection in the
hail-induced wounds. Uptake of streptomycin is improved if applied
during
the evening. Streptomycin should not be applied within 50 days of
harvest
for apples or within 30 days of harvest for pears.
Fireblight is a serious disease of apples, crabapples and pears.
Blossoms,
blossom spurs, and branch tips are infected, turning brown and dying
rapidly. The tips of branches often curl to form what resembles a
shepherd's
crook, or the curved end of a walking cane. The dead leaves remain brown
to
almost black and may remain on the branch all winter. The disease is
caused
by a bacterium that lives in the conducting or vascular tissues of the
plant. The bacterium progresses down the diseased shoots and spurs, and
sometimes reaches a larger branch where a dark or discolored area is
formed.
This discolored area is called a canker. The bacterium lives over the
winter
in young cankers with smooth, indefinite margins. In the spring,
bacteria
ooze from the canker, forming a sticky, thick liquid that insects feed
on.
These insects transmit the bacteria to blossoms, where new infections
start.
Later, the disease may spread from infected blossoms and old cankers to
the
shoots. Rain, wind, and hail help spread the disease.

Successful fireblight control requires a combination of actions. For the

first step, overwintering cankers should be pruned away by cutting at
least
six to ten inches below the edge of the canker. Smaller diseased
branches
should be pruned about ten inches below the edge of the diseased area.
Pruning is best done in late fall after leaf drop, when the diseased
shoots
can be readily seen since they retain their leaves. Or, pruning can be
done
in late February to early March. Pruning tools should be sterilized
between
each cut, Lysol diluted 3/4 cup per gallon of water, or household bleach

diluted 1 cups in each gallon of water. Household bleach works very
well,
but corrodes tools, which must be carefully washed and oiled after use
to
prevent rusting. For the second step, apples or pears can be sprayed
with
streptomycin at blossom time. Use streptomycin at 50-100 parts per
million
every 3-5 days during blossoming. It can also be used every 14 days
after
blossoming, but streptomycin is not as effective for control of shoot
blight
as it is for control of blossom blight.

Fireblight is most severe on succulent shoots. Avoid overfertilizing
trees,
and do not fertilize in late spring or early summer. Hope this helps.

Dennis Norton
Royal Oak Farm Orchard
http://www.royaloakfarmorchard.com
http://www.theorchardkeeper.blogspot.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "sherwindu" <sherwindu@comcast.net>
To: <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
Sent: Monday, June 26, 2006 9:26 PM
Subject: [NAFEX] Leaves curling and folding


>I just took a bunch of sample leaves up to my nearby Chicago Botanical
>Garden
> plant information people and they had no solid answers as to what was
> causing
> the leaves on my fruit trees (mostly apple) to curl up. There was no
sign
> of
> mites, and
> it's past their season any ways. Some leaves at the tips of new
growth
> shrivel
> down
> towards the underside of the leaf. This is seen more on the young
trees,
> in
> pots. I
> try to keep them from drying out, but maybe they are getting too much
> water.
> Other
> trees in the ground have a tendency to fold up. I try to maintain an
even
> watering on
> these trees, but it could be a case of too much or too little
watering.
> There
> is no sign
> of insects or fungus. We have sprayed three times this year, the last

> being
> about 3 weeks ago. The fruit looks fine, and the leaves look good
except
> for
> some hail damage from a few weeks ago. There can be two separate
problems
> here,
> but so far, I don't think the trees are in any great danger. The
plant
> information guy told me
> to stick a pencil in the nearby soil and if it comes up dry, add
water,
> otherwise leave
> it alone. Any thoughts on this?
>
>
>
>
>



------------------------------

Message: 5
Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2006 07:12:23 -0500
From: Jim Fruth <jfruth@uslink.net>
Subject: [NAFEX] Leaves curling and folding
To: <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
Message-ID: <C0C68AD6.2ED1%jfruth@uslink.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"

Sherwindu,
When leaves curl up, you can be pretty sure that potassium or
magnesium
(or both) has become unavailable to the tree or has leached out of the
soil.
You said that you think they may be getting too much water and you are
probably right. If a potassium deficiency becomes severe, the margins
of
older leaves will dry out as the tree transports this mobile element to
younger, growing leaves. If it is a severe magnesium deficiency, older
leaves will start dropping off the tree.
--

Jim Fruth
Brambleberry Farm
Pequot Lakes, MN
www.bberryfarm.com
Jams, Jellies and Syrups
(218)568-8483 [Store]
(218)831-7018 [My cell]


I just took a bunch of sample leaves up to my nearby Chicago Botanical
Garden
plant information people and they had no solid answers as to what was
causing
the leaves on my fruit trees (mostly apple) to curl up. There was no
sign
of
mites, and
it's past their season any ways. Some leaves at the tips of new growth
shrivel
down
towards the underside of the leaf. This is seen more on the young
trees, in
pots. I
try to keep them from drying out, but maybe they are getting too much
water.
Other
trees in the ground have a tendency to fold up. I try to maintain an
even
watering on
these trees, but it could be a case of too much or too little watering.
There
is no sign
of insects or fungus. We have sprayed three times this year, the last
being
about 3 weeks ago. The fruit looks fine, and the leaves look good
except
for
some hail damage from a few weeks ago. There can be two separate
problems
here,
but so far, I don't think the trees are in any great danger. The plant
information guy told me
to stick a pencil in the nearby soil and if it comes up dry, add water,
otherwise leave
it alone. Any thoughts on this?



------------------------------

Message: 6
Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2006 08:53:46 -0400
From: "Thomas Olenio" <tolenio@sentex.net>
Subject: [NAFEX] sources potassium or magnesium?
To: "North American Fruit Explorers" <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
Message-ID: <op.tbs13wku9u98d7@tolenio>
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; delsp=yes;
charset=iso-8859-15


Hello,

What are good, available natural sources of potassium and magnesium for

plants/trees?

Thanks,
Tom


--
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.1.394 / Virus Database: 268.9.3/374 - Release Date:
06/23/2006



------------------------------

Message: 7
Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2006 09:02:13 -0400
From: "David Doud" <doudone@netusa1.net>
Subject: Re: [NAFEX] Leaves curling and folding
To: "North American Fruit Explorers" <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
Message-ID: <031101c699e9$e90cd5c0$a348e004@hal>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

curling terminal growth this time of year often indicate leaf hopper
activity - first/second instar infestations are discrete and they move
rather fast, vacating teminals as you grasp them - approach the plant
quietly and try to observe the underside of the newest growth for small,
light green nymphs scooting around - as they age and grow they become
more
obvious, it's at that time that they pierce the terminal and feed,
causing
the cessesion of growth and shriveling of the newest leaves -

pyrethroids or neo-nicitanoids are possible chems to use - they are
harder
to kill as they get bigger and will often do their damage before the
controls take effect -

BTW, we are just entering 'mite season' - hot summer weather favors
mites -
quick generations and very fast build up -

D




----- Original Message -----
From: "sherwindu" <sherwindu@comcast.net>
To: <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
Sent: Monday, June 26, 2006 10:26 PM
Subject: [NAFEX] Leaves curling and folding


>
> I just took a bunch of sample leaves up to my nearby Chicago Botanical
Garden
> plant information people and they had no solid answers as to what was
causing
> the leaves on my fruit trees (mostly apple) to curl up. There was no
sign
of
> mites, and
> it's past their season any ways. Some leaves at the tips of new
growth
shrivel
> down
> towards the underside of the leaf. This is seen more on the young
trees,
in
> pots. I
> try to keep them from drying out, but maybe they are getting too much
water.
> Other
> trees in the ground have a tendency to fold up. I try to maintain an
even
> watering on
> these trees, but it could be a case of too much or too little
watering.
There
> is no sign
> of insects or fungus. We have sprayed three times this year, the last
being
> about 3 weeks ago. The fruit looks fine, and the leaves look good
except
for
> some hail damage from a few weeks ago. There can be two separate
problems
here,
> but so far, I don't think the trees are in any great danger. The
plant
> information guy told me
> to stick a pencil in the nearby soil and if it comes up dry, add
water,
> otherwise leave
> it alone. Any thoughts on this?
>
>
>
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------------------------------

Message: 8
Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2006 09:53:42 -0400
From: "M Stanton" <6ducks@fuse.net>
Subject: [NAFEX] amelanchier drainage
To: <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
Message-ID: <000601c699f1$1c80f7e0$6401a8c0@mom4c3d1cf9904>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Hi All,

I don't currently have Amelanchiers although I want to make room for a
couple.

I always figured they needed decent drainage, although several
authorities
suggest that at least A. Canadensis does well in wet situations, since
its
native to wetter sites.

Any thoughts? Since the cultivars in the trade are often hybrids, I'd
like
to hear your experiences. Do you have cultivars that have succumbed to
Phytophthora or other root rots? Cultivars that grow really well in wet
soils? Cultivars that are really, really great in very dry sites?

Thanks!

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End of nafex Digest, Vol 41, Issue 55
*************************************




  • [NAFEX] Magnesium source, Harrick, Barbara (N-Kelly Services), 06/27/2006

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