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  • From: "Wyatt Jones" <wyatt_jones AT netzero.com>
  • To: <market-farming AT lists.ibiblio.org>
  • Subject: [Market-farming] Berries
  • Date: Wed, 2 Nov 2016 21:20:26 -0400

I grow some Currants, I agree, a real pain to pick. I think Black currants have more issues with disease than the Red ones.  Never understood why Black Currants and Gooseberries are legal in Ohio while Jostaberries, which are a cross of the two, are banned.  I looked into Paw Paws a while back, I know some people who have trouble getting them to fruit but you need to have two, preferably the right two, growing together to get good production, They like the shade of other trees but I've heard some do ok in the sun.  I was looking at nut trees and ran across a lot of sources for them, so many different kinds  Nolin River Nursery in KY sells them but I think they get them from Peterson's Paw Paws, though they have other varieties as well, some are grafted which should speed up fruiting  Nuttrees. net sells a large number of Pawpaw seeds from fruits weighing up to a pound and a half.  then there is the Ohio Pawpaw association, lots of info on pawpaws around
 
 
I have more sources but that should give an idea
 
If you get into nuts be aware that a lot of nuts have protangenous and Protogynous varieties, I probably misspelled those.  Anyway all that refers to the fact that there are male and female flowers and some have male flowers that flower first (protangenous) and some have the female flowers first (protogynous).  To get full production you really have to match up the timing of the different trees so the flowering cycles are complementary using at least two varieties, it pays to do the research.  Long term projects those anyway  I have some detailed info on the subject, mainly with Black Walnuts and Pecans if anybody is interested, it took a while to compile and I never did anything with it
 
Then of course I grafted up a hundred Cider apple trees on G30 rootstock but that will take a while to produce any results.  Unfortunatly the crabapples didn't do well when I put them in the ground for some reason but I guess I will try again.  Not great apple country here, soil is too heavy but the G30 seems to be the best available for wet heavy soils though the grafts can be brittle.  I did up some French varieties, I guess we will see how disease resistant they are, I know some aren't.  Frequin Rouge is one that is prone to scab in particular but its the main sweet apple used in Norman hard cider so I had to give it a go.  Don't get rootstock from Raintree, the price was good but they didn't have enough root on them and the size was all over the place, Cummins was a lot better and more knowledgeable when I needed help. Cornell is coming out with better apple rootstock all the time but its taking forever to be able to actually become available  G890 and G 960 look promising as does G210 which appears to be the most productive but prone to suckering.  Those should be available next year but in limited qtys.  I've seen trees with them out already in limited numbers but the rootstock is scarce to purchase still.
 
Hardy Kiwis are something I've also thought about.  Make sure you put them in the sun though, I told somebody about them and they put them in the shade then cursed me because they didn't grow well, Don't know what they expected.  You can grow them on fences but its better to get them up higher on T posts and berry wire.Don't get the self fertile varities, they are inferior and don't produce well. 
 
 


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