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market-farming - Re: [Market-farming] Market-farming Digest, Vol 113, Issue 22

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  • From: kathleen timperley <bluestemfarms AT gmail.com>
  • To: "market-farming AT lists.ibiblio.org" <market-farming AT lists.ibiblio.org>
  • Subject: Re: [Market-farming] Market-farming Digest, Vol 113, Issue 22
  • Date: Mon, 18 Jun 2012 09:06:19 -0500

I have nondeterminates that should have been suckered and. Now the
rows in my tunnel are hard to walk thru. Does the same rule apply...
That pruning anything larger than pencil size will set them back? I
know this seems to be true for determinates.

Kathy in northeast NE

Sent from my iPhone

On Jun 17, 2012, at 9:41 PM,
"market-farming-request AT lists.ibiblio.org"
<market-farming-request AT lists.ibiblio.org> wrote:

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> Today's Topics:
>
> 1. Tomato suckering, if and how (Richard Moyer)
> 2. Re: market Scale case (Jay Sleichter)
> 3. Re: Tomato suckering, if and how (Tom & Melanie)
> 4. Re: Tomato suckering, if and how (Etienne Goyer)
> 5. Re: Tomato suckering, if and how (sunnfarm AT netscape.com)
> 6. Re: Tomato suckering, if and how (Todd Lister)
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Sun, 17 Jun 2012 13:44:34 -0400
> From: Richard Moyer <ramoyer AT gmail.com>
> Subject: [Market-farming] Tomato suckering, if and how
> To: market-farming AT lists.ibiblio.org
> Message-ID:
> <CAE3bTdJyHam+vQ637JJMJsrFCzzX-6zcGG_ubXM0AZGudSK-OQ AT mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
>
> We've never suckered tomato plants before. But we have about 800 out this
> year, 100 in High Tunnel and 700 in field. 2 feet apart in row, 3-4 feet
> between rows. We grow early blight resistant varieties, and tend not to
> spray, only 1-2x per year if blight is getting bad.
>
> We trellis with Florida weave, stake and string.
>
> Should we make the time to remove all foliage and suckers below the first
> flower clusters? (We do have the labor.)
> Different method for cherry toms, or between determinants and
> indeterminants? Sucker some of those over others?
>
> Thanks,
> Richard Moyer
> SW VA In need of rain, late seeds just sitting in ground waiting.
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> Message: 2
> Date: Sun, 17 Jun 2012 13:08:52 -0700 (PDT)
> From: Jay Sleichter <jaysleichter AT yahoo.com>
> Subject: Re: [Market-farming] market Scale case
> To: Market Farming <market-farming AT lists.ibiblio.org>
> Message-ID:
> <1339963732.70902.YahooMailNeo AT web160105.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
>
> I wish it was free in Kansas, but we are required by the state to have our
> scales certified annually.? This is the funny part, the state requires it,
> but doesn't test scales.? They are tested by private companies/persons who
> are approved by the state.? It costs $40-50 per scales, per year.? We have
> two scales.?? We had one, then we started doing two markets on Saturday so
> we needed a second one.? Now I run two scales at my Wednesday market too.
>
> I have never seen or heard of anyone getting in trouble for having untested
> scales, but I am sure it has happened somewhere. ?
>
> As far as a case, I pack it in a rubbermade tub. I put two folded table
> cloths below it and two about it.? It is safe and protected.?
>
> Jay
>
> Jay's Jellies, Produce and More
> Clay Center, Kansas
> www.jaysjellies.com
> http://rvp.locallygrown.net/
>
>
> ________________________________
> From: Richard Stewart <rstewart AT zoomtown.com>
> To: Market Farming <market-farming AT lists.ibiblio.org>
> Sent: Sunday, June 17, 2012 10:20 AM
> Subject: Re: [Market-farming] market Scale case
>
>
> I'd like to add to something to what Deb said...
>
> We have the Hamilton County, Ohio inspector come out at the second or third
> summer market that a lot of us go to. ?It doesn't cost anything. ?They'll
> even check your non-market scale for accuracy if you bring them (we bring a
> couple simple mechanical scales with us that we use in the grain and honey
> house to have them checked.
>
> Our digital scale was labeled and approved but it was WAY off. ?In the
> favor of the customer. ?At market we were losing about a .02 per pound. ?We
> use the same scale to weigh our wholesale customers as well so we were
> losing a fair amount of money. ?We dropped the scale over winter time and I
> think this is the result. ?Now I have to take the time to get it fixed and
> zeroed. ?Not a simple task with my schedule and the lack of qualified scale
> companies (we have two in the Cincinnati area).
>
> My goal is to get two inspected scales one prepping for market and the
> other for market. ?The market one is going to be smaller and have a case
> for certain.
>
> The pint of my post though is the scale is not just to protect the customer
> (though that is why the inspectors stamp it) it is also a tool to make sure
> you are making every bit o money from your effort. ?If you are losing $.02
> per pound that adds up quickly.
>
> Richard Stewart
> Carriage House Farm
> North Bend, Ohio
>
> An Ohio Century Farm Est. 1855
>
> (513) 967-1106
> http://www.carriagehousefarmllc.com
> rstewart AT zoomtown.com
>
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> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 3
> Date: Sun, 17 Jun 2012 16:55:44 -0400
> From: "Tom & Melanie" <limerock AT thirdplanet.net>
> Subject: Re: [Market-farming] Tomato suckering, if and how
> To: "Market Farming" <market-farming AT lists.ibiblio.org>
> Message-ID: <E2391AA7FA8D48949687EA03CE246350@OwnerPC>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> I/we sucker all of ours, but they all are indeterminates and trellised. I
> have suckered determinates before and wondered if I should have. It has
> been sooo long that I do not remember what production was like when left
> alone. I always second guess my course of action when other growers start
> harvesting their first set of toms from the lower limbs and I am waiting on
> the upper growth.
>
> All that being said, you only remove the fruiting trusses (the ones in the
> crotch) below that first flower cluster, leaving the lower flatter
> non-bearing leaf, not ?all foliage.? (At least that is what I was taught.)
>
> Sometimes, I will leave the last truss below the flower on one plant and
> remove it from the next plant, alternating all down the row. Sometimes I
> leave two below the flower.
>
> Was also told not to remove any growth pencil-size or larger as it really
> sets the plant back.
>
> Tom
> Near Lake Erie
> (where the drought has just ended with over 2.25? TODAY
>
>
>
> From: Richard Moyer
> Sent: Sunday, June 17, 2012 1:44 PM
> To: market-farming AT lists.ibiblio.org
> Subject: [Market-farming] Tomato suckering, if and how
>
> We've never suckered tomato plants before. But we have about 800 out this
> year, 100 in High Tunnel and 700 in field. 2 feet apart in row, 3-4 feet
> between rows. We grow early blight resistant varieties, and tend not to
> spray, only 1-2x per year if blight is getting bad.
>
> We trellis with Florida weave, stake and string.
>
> Should we make the time to remove all foliage and suckers below the first
> flower clusters? (We do have the labor.)
> Different method for cherry toms, or between determinants and
> indeterminants? Sucker some of those over others?
>
> Thanks,
> Richard Moyer
> SW VA In need of rain, late seeds just sitting in ground waiting.
>
>
>
>
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------------
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> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 4
> Date: Sun, 17 Jun 2012 18:04:05 -0400
> From: Etienne Goyer <etienne AT lejardinduvillage.ca>
> Subject: Re: [Market-farming] Tomato suckering, if and how
> To: market-farming AT lists.ibiblio.org
> Message-ID: <4FDE5455.2060100 AT lejardinduvillage.ca>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
>
> I don't have much experience, so take the following with a grain of
> salt. In 2010, I interned on two different farms. One was doing
> unpruned Florida basket weave both in field and tunnel, and the second
> was doing proper string trellising and suckering in tunnel only. The
> difference was staggering. The basket-weaved tomato on the first farm
> where a tangled mess. The plants would eventually droop and harvesting
> was difficult. On the second farm, harvesting was a lot easier and
> quicker, and the yield was like 4-to-1.
>
> As I said, I cannot claim to be an expert. However, that experience
> really imprinted on me. If you invest in a tunnel and in growing tomato
> transplants, you may as well maximize the return on your investment by
> doing proper trellising and suckering. The time you invest in doing it
> right will be recovered at harvest both in efficiency and yield.
>
> Obviously, the above only apply to indeterminate. For determinate, he
> would remove suckers (but otherwise leave foliage) to the first cluster.
>
>
> On 12-06-17 01:44 PM, Richard Moyer wrote:
>> We've never suckered tomato plants before. But we have about 800 out
>> this year, 100 in High Tunnel and 700 in field. 2 feet apart in row,
>> 3-4 feet between rows. We grow early blight resistant varieties, and
>> tend not to spray, only 1-2x per year if blight is getting bad.
>>
>> We trellis with Florida weave, stake and string.
>>
>> Should we make the time to remove all foliage and suckers below the
>> first flower clusters? (We do have the labor.)
>> Different method for cherry toms, or between determinants and
>> indeterminants? Sucker some of those over others?
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Richard Moyer
>> SW VA In need of rain, late seeds just sitting in ground waiting.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
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>> https://lists.ibiblio.org/sympa/arc/market-farming/
>> Unsubscribe from the list here (you will need to login in with your email
>> address and password):
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>
> --
> Etienne Goyer - Le Jardin du Village
> http://lejardinduvillage.wordpress.com
>
> "Changer le monde, une betterave ? la fois"
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 5
> Date: Sun, 17 Jun 2012 18:56:17 -0700
> From: <sunnfarm AT netscape.com>
> Subject: Re: [Market-farming] Tomato suckering, if and how
> To: "Market Farming" <market-farming AT lists.ibiblio.org>
> Message-ID: <20120617185617.EEE6CBF4 AT resin13.mta.everyone.net>
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> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 6
> Date: Sun, 17 Jun 2012 22:40:38 -0400
> From: Todd Lister <toddlister1 AT gmail.com>
> Subject: Re: [Market-farming] Tomato suckering, if and how
> To: Market Farming <market-farming AT lists.ibiblio.org>
> Message-ID:
> <CAAS1Z3mYxC22NzZ2z=HBAsdRJhf5kwkhWUY_=uR8BRWeSpkQfw AT mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
>
> I'm with Bob,
> I've got about 200 this season, on strings in hoop houses and cages and
> string trellises outside. I always sucker and in fact I take most suckers
> up 2-3 feet. I don't like toms on the ground. I'm getting about 150-170 lbs
> a week and very many of them are 1 1/2 to 2 lbs each. It's a beautiful site
> at market and my customers can't get enough at $4 lb. I'm selling them to
> 4 restaurants at the same price. I'm growing Cherokee Purple and Rose
> heirlooms for five years now. It's a lot harder than hybrids. Each one has
> to go from plant to bubble plastic lined boxes with space between them.
> It's like handling light bulbs only a lot more delicate. One little kiss
> and these things bruise and start to deteriorate.
> Unfortunately I am starting to see tom leaf mold and I'm freaking as I cut
> away lot's of leaf mass up to 4'+. Can't find an organic solution so we'll
> see how long the plants make it. I now fear sun scald on some of the more
> exposed fruit. It's quite a sight. 9'+ plants with few leaves and lots of
> big fruit still hanging on approaching the finish line. Anybody got any
> ideas for knocking this problem out? Any help greatly appreciated.
> I started the inside plants the first week of Jan. and put them in the
> ground the second week of Feb.
> It's already been a great run and I always take my lumps as they come but
> haven't seen this leaf old before. There doesn't seem to be a practical
> solution at hand. I guess it's cultural planning for the future. I believe
> it is the result of high humidity, maybe too much watering in the early
> days.
> Todd Lister
> Veribest Farm
> Vesta Ga
>
> On Sun, Jun 17, 2012 at 9:56 PM, <sunnfarm AT netscape.com> wrote:
>
>> I always sucker my determinant tomatoes. The degree of suckering depends
>> on your soil and the variety. If your soil produces big lush growth then
>> sucker to the first flower cluster. I prefer to leave one sucker below the
>> cluster. Suckering increases the percent of extra large fruit. I can sucker
>> about 4 plants a minute. Its time and labor well spent... Bob.
>> Sunny Meadow Farm
>> Bridgeton, NJ
>>
>> --- ramoyer AT gmail.com wrote:
>>
>> From: Richard Moyer <ramoyer AT gmail.com>
>> To: market-farming AT lists.ibiblio.org
>> Subject: [Market-farming] Tomato suckering, if and how
>> Date: Sun, 17 Jun 2012 13:44:34 -0400
>>
>> We've never suckered tomato plants before. But we have about 800 out this
>> year, 100 in High Tunnel and 700 in field. 2 feet apart in row, 3-4 feet
>> between rows. We grow early blight resistant varieties, and tend not to
>> spray, only 1-2x per year if blight is getting bad.
>>
>> We trellis with Florida weave, stake and string.
>>
>> Should we make the time to remove all foliage and suckers below the first
>> flower clusters? (We do have the labor.)
>> Different method for cherry toms, or between determinants and
>> indeterminants? Sucker some of those over others?
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Richard Moyer
>> SW VA In need of rain, late seeds just sitting in ground waiting.
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________ Market-farming mailing
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>> ------------------------------
>> Netscape. Just the Net You Need.
>>
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> End of Market-farming Digest, Vol 113, Issue 22
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