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  • From: Andrew Millison <amillison@gmail.com>
  • To: permaculture <permaculture@lists.ibiblio.org>
  • Subject: Re: [permaculture] Roofing materials and water collection
  • Date: Fri, 13 May 2011 21:32:21 -0700

My friend sent test samples to the National Testing Laboratory in Chicago
that tests for every known contaminate in parts per million and billion off
of a painted metal roof and also one section that ran through an unpainted
galvanized metal gutter.

The water off of the painted metal was so clean that it surpassed the
standards that they have for distilled water that they use during surgery.
The section that ran through the galvanized gutter section had trace amounts
of Zinc and Manganese.

I've always considered baked enamel metal roofs to produce the cleanest
water because of that data. Over the life of the roof, there will possibly
be minute particles that come off very gradually, but it's baked on like if
you were firing ceramics.

Andrew

On Fri, May 13, 2011 at 8:39 PM, Stephen Sherman <spsherm@msn.com> wrote:

> Thanks, appreciate the experience. Reinforces what I had heard elsewhere
> about the longevity of the painted roofing.
>
> Question still remains (in my mind at least) is it safe to drink the
> water which comes off this painted roofing? Would you do it on a
> regular basis?
>
>
>
> On 5/13/2011 7:23 PM, Lawrence F. London, Jr. wrote:
> >
> > I would avoid asphalt/fiberglass etc.; ceramic is not really an option,
> > plain 5V (24") galvanized will rust and require maintenance
> >
> > Painted, galvanized (I assume it is galvanized under the paint layer)
> > metal roofing comes in any length and in 38" width with 5 separate,
> > evenly spaced gullets (rounded ridges) affording many overlap options to
> > accomodate roof framing specs without cutting the roofing panels
> > lengthwise which would bugger up the edge and break the paint coat. This
> > is maintenance free and will last a lifetime. It may be heavier gauge
> > than 5V and for sure you can get the industrial grade of this type of
> > roofing that is very heavy gauge and with deep square overlapping
> > gullets; this last option will last hundreds of years. I have used both
> > 5V and painted but will only used the prepainted for any new work or
> > maintenance. If you have to cut any to fit framing then use a simple
> > curcular saw with a sheet metal cutting blade. Works fine. It is a flat
> > smooth/square edged disk with many short slots cut around the edge
> > radially toward the center. It cuts by tearing or ripping and not by
> > abrasion. You can use this blade to cut panels lengthwise and across.
> > The fastener system ussed to attach the painted metal panels is superior
> > to that available for the 5V, partly because of the limitations
> > imposed by the V's, only leadhead, acorn or neoprene washer nails are
> > available though now there may be neoprene washer galvanized screws to
> > use. This latter fastener, though heavier gauge than used for 5V, is
> > what is used on the 38" painted metal panels. They say you can screw
> > them through the flats but I would never do that, only through the
> > overlapped V gullets (they are more like U gullets).
> > I can take photos of both metal systems if you want to see what they
> > look like installed and which has rust and which doesn't.
> >
> >> I was wondering what people thought about these options; If there are
> >> any others which I've missed; and if anyone had any hard data on
> >> painted metal roofing leaching whatever into the water runoff.
> > From my experience and knowledge 5 U galvanized/painted 38" metal
> > roofing is the very best option, nothing else can come near for ease of
> > installation and durability as well as giving the owner-builder more and
> > better design options.
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> >
> >
>
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