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  • From: "Scott Weber and Muffy Barrett" <>
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  • Subject: Re: [nafex] grafting tape
  • Date: Fri, 24 Apr 2020 17:32:50 GMT

My experience is mostly with parafilm grafting tape; when fresh, it works
great. When aged, it loses its stretchiness and its self adhesion, making it
hard to work with. I was given some old Parafilm M one time, and it was like
old parafilm grafting tape--a bitch to work with, and not very effective.
With either one, I wrap the join first with a grafting rubber for strength,
then the tape. Although I may wrap the entire scion except the join section
with the parafilm before joining them, since it's easier to do before there
is a tender joint to protect. My two cents.Muffy Barrett

---------- Original Message ----------

Parafilm M is used in laboratory applications to diminish moisture loss; it
does have some gas permeability...however, I'm unaware of it ever being
used in a medical setting as a wound dressing...and I am a scientist and
medical professional(BS in Microbiology, DVM, residency in Pathology).

Are there other grafting tapes that work as well? Perhaps.
In my experience, as others have attested, apples & pears probably require
little, but wrapping the union and scion, in its entirety, is a great boon
for slow-callusing species like pecan, persimmon, oak, etc., which,
additionally, are often grafted later in the season, when temperatures and
sunlight levels are more likely to cause desiccation of the scion.
Parafilm is certainly less troublesome than having to maintain a pot of
melted grafting wax, particularly when grafting in the field, and less
messy than a wax toilet ring.
Buds will push right through well-stretched Parafilm M (it stretches to
200% of its original length), and there's no need to cut or remove anything
later in the season.

But...again, Parafilm M has virtually NO structural strength...graft unions
must be bound/supported with it masking tape, rubber bands,
electrical tape or other grafting/budding tape...some of which may require
cutting or removal to prevent subsequent girdling.

My minimal experience with the Parafilm Grafting Tape product was that it
did not stretch as thinly, nor did it self-adhere, as does Parafilm M. I
just did not like it, and saw no reason to switch away from what I'd
learned to use from the outset of my experience as a grafter.

Lucky Pittman

On Thu, Apr 23, 2020, 11:04 PM sherwin <> wrote:

> On 4/22/2020 4:44 AM, Alan Haigh wrote:
> > As mentioned, the use of parafilm is to hold in moisture, I doubt it lets
> > any oxygen in. I use electric tape to hold my splice grafts together and
> > then wrap my scion with the parafilm. Pears and apples don't really need
> it
> > and a dab of some kind of sealant at the tip is generally adequate.
> >
> > Vinyl electric tape can eventually girdle apple grafts but peach growth
> is
> > strong enough to force it to stretch. A longitudinal cut with a razor
> knife
> > after the tissue is merged and strong is sometimes needed, but if you
> > unwrap it when the bark isn't slipping you can usually get away with that
> > without peeling off any bark. Alternatively, you can use rubber electric
> > tape which stretches much more than vinyl.
> >
> > Where the parafilm seems useful and even necessary is with stonefruit,
> > persimmon and paw paw grafts.
> >
> > I exclusively use splice grafts because they are the quickest and require
> > the least skill, especially if you use a double bladed Italian pruning
> > shear to cut the scion and annual shoot (or 2nd year) you are grafting
> > together. If you match diameters any idiot can do it without ever cutting
> > their fingers. The trick is to make long diagonal cuts of scion and
> mother
> > wood as close to the same as you can. This creates a lot of matching
> > cambium.
> > __________________
> > nafex mailing list
> >
> > Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters
> > subscribe/unsubscribe|user config|list info:
> >
> Alan,
> There are many kinds of grafting tapes that can retain the moisture
> of a graft union. People have been known to use masking tape and other
> such products that should moisture seal the graft. Parafilm will also
> breath as it does in its usage in the medical world where wounds do
> better with exposure to air. Question is, does the Parafilm have any
> advantage over other grafting tapes because it allows air to reach the
> graft union?
> Sherwin
> __________________
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> Northamerican Allied Fruit Experimenters
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"those who I know do it successfully wit until the weather is much

On the forum in which I am a staff-member,, we discuss the
best time to graft peaches and plums regularly and by my experience, it
isn't necessary enough to wait until the weather is warm, whether you mean
in the '60's, 70's or 80's. These days I spread my grafting to try to find
the sweet spot for peaches and nects and I begin to believe there is none.
I always wait at least until petal fall and continue for a month.

Some years they take well and others they don't, but once again, I'm not
being scientific enough about it by matching weather records with success,
but based on the testimony of many members there doesn't really seem to be
a precise rhyme or reason we've come up with.

Plums are something between peaches and apples in terms of percentage of
successful grafts, and right now I'm working on the assumption that you can
successfully graft Japanese plums earlier in the season than E. plums. One
very thoughtful grafter who claims a very high percentage of takes grafts
J. plums at first growth.

This year spring has been so cool, I just don't feel like doing a lot of
grafting, no matter how the wood may feel about it. Done quite a few apple
grafts and as an experiment, several J. plums. Tomorrow I will do more of
both- warmest day in a while. I'm looking forward to better bee and fly
activity in remaining peach, nect and plum blossoms here in S. NY.

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