North American Fruit Explorers mailing list at ibiblio

[R F Hollaus <hollaus@comcast.net>]

If you want one best overall technique you will have to learn to change the 
environment growing conditions of each individual kind of rootstock. If for 
example you know maples have higher than average root pressure then the 
upward flow of water from the rootstock will flow harder and your grafts will 
be flooded. Then don't grow any potential maple rootstocks in the open, but 
rather in pots where you can control some of this. 

Another problem for hard to graft trees that you might not be thinking about 
is ones that lack good callus production. Trees that are happy growing next 
to each other otherwise vary in optimal temperatures necessary to produce 
callus, which is all necessary. Apples and pears seem to produce about the 
most which most of the time makes them more forgiving in accurate matching of 
the cuts. 

One idea I had about low callus trees is about binding the surfaces tighter 
together with something stronger than rubber bands. I tried some of this 
recently with sweet cherry and some others poor in producing callus so we 
will see. I tried something close to a whip & tongue graft and used spun 
around surveyor flagging tape for extra strength. 

Rupert. 

----- Original Message -----
> I am a novice grafter. I have not done many grafts as I am just graft
> occasionally for my own orchard. However, what I am getting from this
> discussion about techniques is that for easy fruits like apple, the
> technique itself may not matter as much as the comfort level of the
> practitioner. In other words, the key is the matching up of the
> cambium.
> Whatever is easy for an individual will probably work.
> 
> But for more difficult situations such as grafting pawpaws, jujubes,
> nut
> trees, what are the best techniques for overall success? Is there a
> difference in overall success among techniques?
> 
> Betsy Hilborn
> 7a NC
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