North American Fruit Explorers mailing list at ibiblio

[Jwlehman@aol.com]

In a message dated 1/5/2012 6:59:30 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
filtertitle@aol.com writes:

> Group:
> My house is in New Jersey - the prevailing winds come from the northwest.
> I. Kaki persimmons
> I'm considering planting Asian persimmons (on D. virginiana rootstocks) on 
> the north side of my less-than one-story house (which just a little bit 
> further north, is another house - so the north side is really just the 
> south 
> side of my neighbor's property just north of my house.The tree's will be 
> planted (no choice on the distance) about 8 feet from my house and about 10 
> feet south of my neighbor's house.  I read that even though you get some 
> winter protection, the winds run around the sides of the house, so maybe 
> this 
> makes it worst for marginally hardy trees?  I also read that bark-cracking 
> can happen on the south side of the property/home in winter when directly 
> exposed to sun.Will roots be a risk to the foundation of the house - this 
> is 
> not an Oak tree, etc.
> Also, because of the winds rushing faster around the house, am I 
> better-off just planting these trees on the east side of the house?  If I 
> do that, 
> they would be planted between 15 and 25 feet away from my house.
> Lastly, 
> II. Pomegranate, Fig, etc.
> Will partially hardy fruit trees (like fig and 'Kazake' cv. pomegranate) 
> be less likely to have their roots die, in the event that the winter is 
> cold 
> enough to kill the plant to the root crown, if they are planted just a few 
> feet away from a house?  I bet that the ground surrounding the house 
> (where the basement is heated, especially) is going to be a bit warmer than 
> the 
> ground would, otherwise, typically be.  
> 
> 

Steve, 

Normally, to get protection from the South side of a building the trees 
need be closer than 10 feet. One foot is better. Five feet would afford 
little 
protection. So if you plant on the North side which in normally colder and 
10 feet from the neighbors south side, little or no protection you are 
choosing the coldest scenario. I'd plant on the South side and paint the tree 
bark 
white to protect from winter sun heating, called sun scald. 

I wouldn't worry about the D. Virginiana roots getting into the house 
foundation. 

I hope some others will weight in on this also. 

Jerry
>From nave1@comcast.net  Thu Jan  5 22:48:59 2012
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Date: Thu, 05 Jan 2012 21:48:58 -0600
From: Dan Nave <nave1@comcast.net>
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Subject: Re: [nafex ibiblio list] Manchurian apricot (P. manshurica) - worth
 growing in zone 6?
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Jerseycot is supposed to be self-fruitful.  It doesn't need a pollinator.

 From what I see on the net Manchurian Apricot is recommended for zone 3 to 
6.  You may be able to 
get a much better cultivar for your area.  Where are you located?

Dan


On 1/4/2012 11:42 PM, Steven Covacci wrote:
> Group:
> I am planting an apricot (P. armeniaca) cv. Jerseycot.  I have a select 
> seedling of Manchurian apricot (P. armeniaca var. mandshurica).  I 
> understand that Manchurian apricot is very good for drying and has a strong 
> flavor, from what I hear; and is great for making jam.Perhaps it can serve 
> as a pollinator for my Jerseycot true apricot; I've seen a lone apricot 
> produce no fruit for lack of a pollinator, I suspect - I'm not sure if 
> that's the case with cv. Jerseycot.
> Flavor-wise, is there any great benefit to growing Manchurian apricot for 
> home consumption if you live in a zone where regular apricot (P. armeniaca) 
> can be grown?
> Also, to pollinate regular apricot, will 'Veteran' peach and/or sour cherry 
> work?
> Thanks,
> Steve; NJ 6b/7a
>
>
>
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