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- From: "Dr. Lucky Pittman" <lucky.pittman@murraystate.edu>
- To: "'North American Fruit Explorers'" <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
- Subject: Re: [NAFEX] Grafting with current years wood.
- Date: Thu, 30 Jun 2011 08:51:42 -0500
Interesting, Jerry - and you may be right. I've usually stopped grafting
long before now - 'cause it's usually hot and dry here by now, or I've got
other more pressing matters to deal with. We've had some timely rains and a
bit cooler temps than I've become accustomed to, so I've come out for a
second, later, round of grafting.
I did graft some dormant persimmon scions onto vigorous, large-caliper
shoots that had popped up from below failed grafts I did earlier in the
season, just this week. I'll watch those to see if your experience is
repeated. I do appreciate the heads-up that they may 'wake up dead' next
spring.
LLP
I'm going to stick my neck out, but believe the reason you were successful
is you used wood that wasn't current years growth. I believe had you used
this years growth it may act like it had taken, stay alive but next spring
it
would be dead. The reason: I don't believe current year wood callouses until
after it matures over the summer, hence successful fall budding. I have
summer grafted with reasonable success, also small numbers, but always used
last years wood.
I tried grafting dormant scions into current years green wood. The buds
broke and grew and was excited as it appeared I could graft after the bark
went
out of the first slip. The following spring all were dead. Upon examining
them all, none had calloused with the green wood. There was transfer of
nutrients to enable bud extension and growth, but no callousing.
Jerry
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-
Re: [NAFEX] Grafting with current years wood.,
Jwlehman, 06/29/2011
- Re: [NAFEX] Grafting with current years wood., Dr. Lucky Pittman, 06/30/2011
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