North American Fruit Explorers mailing list at ibiblio

[Jwlehman@aol.com]

In a message dated 5/12/2011 3:40:08 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
scott@cs.jhu.edu writes:

> I have a somewhat related question, about as in persimmon grafts.  I have 
> had inconsistent results over the years and now I am thinking I am 
> grafting too early perhaps.  I did the grafts this spring when the new 
> shoots were 
> maybe 1" long.  On the bark grafts the bark was not slipping well yet 
> which is one reason why I am wondering if it was too early.  What shoot 
> length 
> is best for persimmon grafts?  Some of my persimmon grafts did work, they 
> were bark grafts; all the wedge and cleft grafts failed.  I am going to 
> only 
> do bark grafts from now on persimmons.  All of my other grafts worked well 
> this year, it is only persimmons I am having problems with now.

Hello Scott,
 
Yes, you were too early to achieve best results. Generally 1 inch of new 
growth the bark should be slipping well. However I believe can vary depending 
on soil moisture. Suggestion, cut off the tree maybe two branches above 
where you wish to graft. If that area is slipping well then move down to 
where 
you wish to make the final graft. If not wait another week, cut off further 
down and test again. 

One reason for cleft graft failures is the very low area of cambium to 
cambium contact. I no longer use it for any species! Failure rate is too 
high. 

Also something I noticed in American persimmon. The trees don't seem to 
heal well in the bottom maybe 12 inches and my success rate works best when 
grafting 18 inches and higher. I no longer graft persimmon less than 12 
inches 
above the ground level. 

Another note, here in Indiana persimmon remains in the slip until about 
July 1, don't get in a hurry. But if one waits until near the end of the 
active 
growth period you lose growth of the grafted material. I generally don't 
start grafting persimmon until June 1. 

Jerry