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Hi Deb,
People used to paint lime on the bark. It last
for one year only, but it does the job of protecting the bark and delaying
Spring bloom while contributing to the health of the tree particularly in acidic
area. You can use a water based paint and mix lime into it, in proportions
that is easy to work with. Too much lime versus water and it is difficult to
apply.
Hélène, zone 3-4
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Sunday, January 02, 2011 8:23
PM
Subject: Re: [NAFEX] delaying bloom
I've thought about using paint as a deterrent to bark
nibblers...but wondered it it wasn't bad for the tree (I keep remembering the
woman in the James Bond movie who was painted completely
gold and died from it heh heh). Is there a certain kind of paint
one should use and would it be harmful to the bark??
deb
On Sun, Jan 2, 2011 at 4:23 PM, Alan Haigh <alandhaigh@gmail.com>
wrote:
I'm in Z6 southeastern NY and delaying bloom here is more
than about saving the crop but also saving these fragile trees. Harsh
winters don't seem to be what kills the Har series apricots here so much as
hard freezes after warm spells. Purvis told me that the Rutgers
program is using hardier strains than what the Harrow Station breeders
worked with when they developed harcot and all the others. I'm growing
Early Blush, from Rutgers, which Adams County Nursery carries but is sold
out on for 11. From sampling the first few fruit it seems a tasty
variety and wonderfully early.
The only research that I've seen that
successfully involved white paint to delay bloom involved painting all the
wood, including the small bud wood which I suspect is most important of
all. White paint on the trunk seems to be mostly about protecting from
southwest injury but I'm not at all sure it would be helpful in protecting
apricots from being killed by fluctuating temps in early spring. Show
me the research!
As far as quality, I find site makes a difference as
much as variety around here where some sites seem to produce dry fruit while
others produce fruit with good juice. I haven't figured that one out
at all, but if the fruit is juicy all of the Har series should be real good-
at least as grown around here. Hargrand is the only one that I grow
that can give you CA sized fruit and it's probably been the most
hardy. Alfred (from Cornell) is a reliable cropper, maybe hardier that
the Hars, but tiny and prone to scab. Pretty tasty
though.
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