North American Fruit Explorers mailing list at ibiblio

["Brungardt, Sam (MPCA)" <Sam.Brungardt@state.mn.us>]

John, in which USDA hardiness zone or in or near which city do you live? – Sam Brungardt, St. Paul, Minn. (USDA zone 4b)

 

From: nafex-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:nafex-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of John Barbowski
Sent: Thursday, July 01, 2010 12:23 PM
To: North American Fruit Explorers
Subject: Re: [NAFEX] black currant productivity

 

After my currants crops are picked (any day now), I prune (every 2nd year) the older wood. (as per advice by a NAFEX'er in the UK who responded to my query a few years ago).

I take the prunings and further prune the stems into about 6-8" lengths and into single stems - leaving the top 2 or three leaves. I then immerse the bottom 4" of the stems in water and keep the container out of the direct sun. I achieve about a 90% take on root development, both on old and new wood. I plant them in the fall to allow for more root development and for winter hardening. The odd one succumbs over winter - but most survive.

I am dealing with Ben Lomond and Ben Sarek. I find Ben L develops a little better than Ben S.

The main problems: looking out for the odd stem that rots and mosquito larva.

I do the same with 10 " new growth fig cuttings (did some yesterday). Works okay for me.

jmb

On Thu, Jul 1, 2010 at 9:09 AM, Kieran and/or Donna <holycow@frontiernet.net> wrote:

Alan,  Yes, currants and gooseberries are supposed to be pruned yearly, to remove older branches.  I think anything older than 4 years.  I have neglected my original gooseberry, and though I weeded it last winter, I didn't think to prune it. 

The books say that Ribes tend to become very overcrowded with age, that each new shoot develops enough side shoots to make a bush in itself.  I think if you get in there in the winter and thin them out some the fruit size will improve considerably.  Have you got any outlet to sell rooted cuttings?  You could have a nice little sideline there at least till you get them thinned out.  I guess if you thinned in summer they'd send more energy to the branches you leave behind.  You could sell the idea to your customers and plant the rooted cuttings for them in the fall.  What I read is that Ribes come out so early in the spring that fall planting is highly recommended.  I realize now's a busy time of year for everyone, but if you buy some potting soil, throw it in some pots, and stuff whatever you cut off into the pots, come fall you would probably be proud of yourself.  I have a friend who always has spare rose bushes.  Whatever she prunes off in the summer she sticks in pots in a nice shady area, gets lots of takes that way.  I think it's mostly the timing and the shade.  That area is where she keeps potted plants so they get a spray with the hose now and then.  Donna