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nafex - Re: [NAFEX] Grafting suggestions

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  • From: Sarah Kehler Ewing <skkewing@yahoo.com>
  • To: North American Fruit Explorers <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
  • Subject: Re: [NAFEX] Grafting suggestions
  • Date: Mon, 2 Nov 2009 13:37:06 -0800 (PST)

    When I teach grafting we do whip-and-tongue
> and cleft grafting only
> because I have about a 95% success rate compared to a poor
> success rate
> doing budding.  Budding only gets a brief mention in
> my classes.
>
> Jim Fruth


I've no experience with anything, but bud grafting. Dr. Evans teaches a much
simpler kind of bud grafting than that found in most reference books. His
method is this:

1)bud collection: slice a thin slice of bark off your stick of wood from your
desired tree that is about an inch long with a nice bud centered in the
middle of the bark slice (there should be a bit of wood under the bud).

2)rootstock: slice down the bark where you want to put the graft freeing a
thin strip of bark about the same width as your bud from the rootstock, then
slice cross-wise at the end of the bark slice leaving a short flap of loose
bark at the bottom to hold the bud. I like to make sure I slice nowhere near
a rootstock bud to make it easier to tell that it is in fact the graft
growing and not a nearby rootstock bud trying to take over.

3)grafting: place the bud in the small flap of bark taking care to line up
the edges (or at least one edge) of the bud with the edge of the slice in the
rootstock and making sure that the bud slice is not longer than the slice
made in the rootstock, wrap the whole open wound with parafilm and watch the
bud pop through and grow into a tree! You will need to rub off shoots
growing on the rootstock, but take care not to rub off the bud you grafted
on.

I hope this is clear. It is easy to teach in person, very easy and fast to
use, conserves rare budwood, and is very effective in terms successful grafts.

Sarah
zone 3
Edmonton, AB




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