Anthony,
I am in zone 5, but weather has been zone 6 in recent years. Unfortunately, I do not pay much attention to linking sweetness to varieties, but grow about 7 kinds from mostly from One Green World (Blue Moon, Blue Velvet, Berry Blue, Blue Bird, Kamachatka, a few more whose names escape me at this time). I doubt that I have had fruit from all of them, though. I leave the fruit on for some time after they turn blue before picking. Typically, I'll feel the berry before picking it, looking for tenderness or "give". Taste does vary from person to person. I routinely enjoy aronia and wild autumn olives, so I may not be as sensitive to tartness as others, allthough I would not call either of them sweet.
John
--- On Thu, 1/8/09, Anthony Curcio <apc@vassolinc.com>
wrote:
From: Anthony Curcio <apc@vassolinc.com> Subject: Re: [NAFEX] nafex Digest, Vol 72, Issue 18 ( Honeyberry question for John S ) To: "'nafex@lists.ibiblio.org'" <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org> Date: Thursday, January 8, 2009, 9:24 AM
John, You are the first to say Honeyberries are sweet, what variety did you plant ? What zone are you in ? Thanks Anthony z4b
-----Original Message----- From: nafex-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:nafex-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of nafex-request@lists.ibiblio.org Sent: Wednesday, January 07, 2009 11:00 PM To: nafex@lists.ibiblio.org Subject: nafex Digest, Vol 72, Issue 18
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Today's Topics:
1. Blue Berries & soil (Martha L. Davis) 2. Re: propagating lemons (MARIE ASHTON) 3. Re: Honeysuckle (Stephen Sadler) 4. Re: Honeyberry (John S) 5. Re: Calcium tying up boron??? (Donna &/or Kieran) 6. Re: Pictures? (Donna &/or Kieran)
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Message: 1 Date: Wed, 7 Jan 2009 20:27:10 -0500 (EST) From: "Martha L. Davis" <martha_davis@earthlink.net> Subject: [NAFEX] Blue Berries & soil To: nafex@lists.ibiblio.org Message-ID:
<27665210.1231378030876.JavaMail.root@mswamui-blood.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8
One of the things I remember about blue berries is that they have a high iron requirement like many acid lovers. Iron becomes more available at lower pH.
Martha
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Message: 2 Date: Wed, 07 Jan 2009 19:44:39 -0600 From: "MARIE ASHTON" <bwoodtx@verizon.net> Subject: Re: [NAFEX] propagating lemons To: "North American Fruit Explorers" <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org> Message-ID: <2E8ECB71E0A944AA91908C5992055EAE@richardnvt653j> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
An excellent website on grafting citrus is located at: http://members.fortunecity.com/pjsauber/ click on the type of graft you want to do on the left side of the page. He has propagated citrus about every way you can.
Paul Sauber is very
helpful if you need to contact him.
Regards, Richard Ashton Oak Creek Orchard www.oakcreekorchard.com bwoodtx@verizon.net
----- Original Message ----- From: John Bunker To: North American Fruit Explorers Sent: Wednesday, January 07, 2009 2:01 PM Subject: Re: [NAFEX] propagating lemons
What is the best method for propagating lemon trees? A friend has an excellent plant and wants to replicate. I told them I'd be happy to do some grafting. They were thinking air-layering. Any thoughts? Thanks,
John Bunker Fedco trees@fedcoseeds.com www.fedcoseeds.com PO Box 520 Waterville ME 04903 207-873-7333
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Message: 3 Date: Wed, 7 Jan 2009 18:29:19 -0800 From: "Stephen Sadler" <Docshiva@Docshiva.org> Subject: Re: [NAFEX] Honeysuckle To: "'North American Fruit Explorers'" <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org> Message-ID: <00ba01c97138$e8fea6c0$bafbf440$@org> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Jim,
Did you post the names and/or source of your varieties?
Then again, my zone - 9ish - may be completely too warm. So, group - anyone having success with these in the warmer zones?
If my daughter's still in Russia in the Spring, I'll ask her if honeyberries are available.
~ Stephen
-----Original Message----- From: nafex-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:nafex-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Jim
Fruth Sent: Wednesday, January 07, 2009 9:19 AM To: NAFEX Subject: [NAFEX] Honeysuckle
Pat Holloway from the University of Alaska, Fairbanks, tasted a number of cultured Lonicera(s) on her visit to Russia. She said that those that are available here in the U.S. are bland by comparison to some of the other (Russian) varieties. The two varieties I grow are so packed with flavor that I cannot imagine another berry having more flavor but, if Pat said it, it has got to be true.
Jim Fruth Brambleberry Farm Pequot Lakes, MN 56472 For jams, jellies & syrups: www.bberryfarm.com (877)265-6856 [Store] (218)831-7018 [My Cell]
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Message: 4 Date: Wed, 7 Jan 2009 20:35:37 -0800 (PST) From: John S <swim_at_svc@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [NAFEX] Honeyberry To: North American Fruit Explorers
<nafex@lists.ibiblio.org> Message-ID: <549812.97564.qm@web110010.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
Jim,? My honeyberries are sweet and I would not think of comparing to aronia.? Any chance you are picking early?? Mine color up a long time before they are ready to eat (a month?)
John
--- On Wed, 1/7/09, Jim Fruth <jfruth@tds.net> wrote: From: Jim Fruth <jfruth@tds.net> Subject: [NAFEX] Honeyberry To: "NAFEX" <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org> Date: Wednesday, January 7, 2009, 12:12 PM
Ernest Plutko wrote, "I've been thinking about buying honeyberries also. Look at Burnt Ridge Nursery They have four types of honeyberries and their prices are more reasonable. Research on internet shows most people thought honeyberries are tiny and have a bland flavor. Some people say they are great for jam. I never ate any honeyberries so
I don't have an opinion. I'm wondering if honeyberry grows best in acold climate.'
I grow Honeyberry here in zone 3. I wouldn't necessarily call then tiny but that depends upon which perspective you use. They are about an inch long but rod-like, like a skinny tetrahedron. Mine are loaded with flavor. They are the first fruit to ripen, even before strawberries and are they ever sour! Fantastic flavor, make a fine jelly and are just a tiny bit easier to eat out of hand than chokecherries. Burnt Ridge nursery recommends planting two for better pollination. Of the four varieties they sell, two are recommended for warm climates and two for colder areas but I don't remember which two...............and the snow is too deep to go out and check the tags.
Jim Fruth Brambleberry Farm Pequot Lakes, MN 56472 For jams, jellies & syrups: www.bberryfarm.com (877)265-6856
[Store] (218)831-7018 [My Cell]
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Message: 5 Date: Wed, 7 Jan 2009 22:41:02 -0600 From: "Donna &/or Kieran" <holycow@cookeville.com> Subject: Re: [NAFEX] Calcium tying up boron??? To: "North American Fruit Explorers" <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org> Message-ID: <10BE2C7633534878B92BD0928F2B76F2@YOUR20FE224C19> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1"; reply-type=original
Yes, raising pH and organic matter make boron less available. We did it, and it sure did a job on things that needed boron. Mind you, southern clays are seriously deficient in boron to start with, but when we got done, beets would not grow, period. We also managed to make Mn less available by doing both of those things PLUS God
provided some heavy rainfall. I couldn't stop the rain, wouldn't have wanted to reduce the organic matter even if I could
have, so only the pH was under my control. I'd add sulfur and the yellow stripes on the corn leaves would disappear within days. I rescued the corn like this every summer for about 5 years. Unfortunately the effects of severe boron deficiency can't be easily gotten rid of; stunted warped growth that looks like a virus infection, cracked apples. Neil Kinsey in his book HANDS ON AGRONOMY says that a foliar boron spray greens up crops so fast that a farmer can quit anywhere in the field, go home for lunch, and the line between green plants and yellow plants will tell him right where he quit. Their level of deficiency was obviously minor compared to ours. Donna
P.S. Though calcium can prevent Boron uptake, boron controls calcium transport in the plant. Without boron,
the plants show Ca deficiency symptoms. Since Calcium slows the spread of viruses, I have bugged some rose nuts to throw borax around wild multifloras infected with rosette virus to see if it stops the "virus" or maybe a real virus. It looks like a very exaggerated version of what happened to my tomato plants in the bad old low boron days.
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Message: 6 Date: Wed, 7 Jan 2009 22:59:42 -0600 From: "Donna &/or Kieran" <holycow@cookeville.com> Subject: Re: [NAFEX] Pictures? To: "North American Fruit Explorers" <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org> Message-ID: <5C823962493A4185B7A602EEDFB656FC@YOUR20FE224C19> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1"; reply-type=original
I would advise all of you with long term plans to take photos of your place from various angles, and take them every year or two from the same place if
possible. I wish we had done this. I know we have a couple of photos from the first few years we owned the place. There have been so many changes, I wish we'd documented them. I remember the little tiny bamboo patch, taking
a photo over the top of it. Now there's no way we can look down through the bamboo to see the lower slope. The first winter we planted wheat and oats for a cover crop, they were stunted and yellow. Now all I have are snapshots in my mind. "We were standing right here when we all saw that tree fall down, and now we can't even see the spot where it stood." "Remember when this whole slope was nothing but tree tops left over from logging, blackberry vines you couldn't get around in, and gravel?" That sort of thing. A few snapshots would really have helped. Donna
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