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  • From: "Ernest Plutko" <ernestplutko@wiktel.com>
  • To: nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
  • Subject: Re: [NAFEX] figs
  • Date: Wed, 6 Aug 2008 15:52:16 -0500

0

---- Original Message ----
From: lovehd@comcast.net
To: nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
Subject: Re: [NAFEX] figs
Date: Mon, 4 Aug 2008 13:00:09 -0600

>The heat zone maps are based on the number of days per year in which
>the
>temperatures exceed 86 degrees F (30 degrees C). Here is a link to
>the the
>AHS heat zone map.
>
>http://www.ahs.org/pdfs/05_heat_map.pdf
>
>Hal
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Ernest Plutko" <ernestplutko@wiktel.com>
>To: <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
>Sent: Monday, August 04, 2008 12:04 PM
>Subject: Re: [NAFEX] figs
>
>
>> What is the Difference between heat zone and cold zone?
>>
>> ---- Original Message ----
>> From: lucky.pittman@murraystate.edu
>> To: nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
>> Subject: Re: [NAFEX] figs
>> Date: Mon, 04 Aug 2008 11:54:12 -0500
>>
>> >I'm in zone 6; albeit 'hot' zone 6, in southern west-central KY -
>> >about 70 miles NW of Nashville TN.
>> >For a number of years, I had several figs in-ground in my
>> >orchard. For a couple of years, I tried covering them with piles
>of
>> >leaves hauled home from residential areas in town. They all froze
>> >back to the ground, whether covered or not, so I just stopped
>> >bothering. Most would re-grow from the roots/crown, but rarely
>were
>> >able to set and ripen fruits before freezing weather set in in
>Nov,
>> >though I did get a good crop that ripened on LSU Purple one year.
>> >Subsequently, I rooted cuttings from all I had in the ground, as
>well
>> >
>> >as any other varieties I've accumulated since then, and keep them
>in
>> >15-gallon pots, which I stick into the crawlspace underneath our
>> >sunroom whenever temps start dropping into the 20s in late fall.
>> >I still have a couple of survivors out there in the orchard - one
>of
>> >which is LSU Purple; I've not looked recently, but guess I need to
>-
>> >it may be ripening some figs now.
>> >My biggest problem with potted figs is keeping them watered -
>they're
>> >
>> >planted in a soilless potting mix, with extra pinebark fines mixed
>> >in, so they're really well-drained, and if I don't water them
>daily,
>> >they dry out rapidly. If I leave town for even a couple of days,
>I
>> >can't really count on my wife or kids to water them adequately,
>and I
>> >
>> >come home to wilted fig plants that have aborted their fruit.
>> >I'm thinking about doing 'pot-in-pot' with them, to alleviate this
>> >problem, but it'll require digging some pretty good-sized holes to
>> >sink another 15-gallon pot in the ground to set the one containing
>> >the fig into, but it should alleviate some of the problem with
>their
>> >roots drying out - but then I might have a very difficult time
>> >getting them up in the fall, as I'm sure they'd send some roots
>out
>> >into the surrounding soil - it's very common for me to have cut
>some
>> >pretty substantial roots that have exited drain holes in order to
>> >move my pots in every fall..\
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >Lucky Pittman
>> >USDA Cold Zone 6
>> >AHS Heat Zone 7
>> >Hopkinsville, KY
>> >
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>_______________________________________________
>nafex mailing list
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>
>Reproduction of list messages or archives is not allowed.
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>Permission to reproduce is NEVER granted, so don't claim you have
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>No exceptions.
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