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nafex - Re: [NAFEX] nafex Digest, Vol 61, Issue 64

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  • From: Lucky Pittman <lucky.pittman@murraystate.edu>
  • To: North American Fruit Explorers <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
  • Subject: Re: [NAFEX] nafex Digest, Vol 61, Issue 64
  • Date: Wed, 20 Feb 2008 13:11:58 -0600

At 06:09 PM 2/19/2008, you wrote:
Looking for advice on grafting a very young seedling pecan.
Any special tecniques? This seedling is a little thicker than a pencil. Any
special time other than when the rootstock starts waking up??

Pete,
I'll defer to Topgun, if he weighs in, as he's done more of these through the years than me.

I do a modified bark graft for most all of my pecan/hickory/walnut grafts - a modificaton of the so-called 'Sap-stopper modification of the Gray graft'.
I make a transverse cut in the rootstock, approximately 3/4-7/8 of the way through the stem, then break the top over, leaving it attached, to act as a 'sap-drawer' or 'pressure relief valve' of sorts.
Then, I'll make a downward vertical incision in the bark of the rootstock, and gently lift the bark on either side.
Scion prep consists of making a long, sloping cut in the base - just like you would for a simple splice graft, then 'shaving' a bit of bark off the two sides to expose some additional cambium tissue on the sides, then slide the scion down into the vertical slit in the rootstock bark until the uppermost cambium on the base is just at the top of the nearly-beheaded rootstock. Wrap & seal.
Seems like I've seen some recommendations (OK St. U., maybe?) for doing whip & tongue grafts prior to budbreak - and I think I've done a couple that way in the past, with maybe a 50% success rate - but again, it's only been a couple. Here 'tis: http://pods.dasnr.okstate.edu/docushare/dsweb/Get/Document-1020/HLA-6205.pdf

Lucky Pittman
USDA Cold Zone 6
AHS Heat Zone 7
Hopkinsville, KY




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