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  • From: "Alan Haigh" <alandhaigh@gmail.com>
  • To: nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
  • Subject: Re: [NAFEX] nafex Digest, Vol 58, Issue 32
  • Date: Wed, 21 Nov 2007 16:23:32 -0500

Weird, it happened  to my carrots also, in a light forest loam, high in OM, well mulched with straw.  I thought it was because a woodchuck mowed them in middle growing season.  Many of the carrots were still useful though, straight until the very end where they'd splay out fantastically.

On Nov 21, 2007 2:18 PM, <nafex-request@lists.ibiblio.org> wrote:
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Today's Topics:

  1. Re: Trellising blackberries on steriods (Lon J. Rombough)
  2. Re: OT Parsnips? (hans brinkmann)
  3. OT parsnips (Karen Tillou)


----------------------------------------------------------------------

Message: 1
Date: Wed, 21 Nov 2007 10:04:42 -0800
From: "Lon J. Rombough" <lonrom@hevanet.com>
Subject: Re: [NAFEX] Trellising blackberries on steriods
To: North American Fruit Explorers < nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
Message-ID: <0828e86c7fd6b00679b7d120042261fb@hevanet.com">0828e86c7fd6b00679b7d120042261fb@hevanet.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Dr. Albert Heinrich used a system of double trellises.  He planted the
berries between two trellises and alternated them.  That is, if you
looked down the row, the bearing canes were trained to one side and the
new shoots were trained to the other side as they came along.  When the
bearing canes were done, he just cut them off at the base and pulled
the whole mass off that trellis, which then became the open trellis for
the next batch of new shoots.
-Lon Rombough
Grapes, writing, consulting, my book, The Grape Grower, at
http://www.bunchgrapes.com  Winner of the Garden Writers Association
"Best Talent in Writing" award for 2003.
For even more grape lessons, go to  http://www.grapeschool.com
For all other things grape,   http://www.vitisearch.com

On Nov 21, 2007, at 9:19 AM, Mark & Helen Angermayer wrote:

Thanks Don,

Evidently my trellis is a bit short.  I have a 5' trellis with wires at
2',
3', 4' and the top at 5'.  I also may have my plants too close, spaced
at 3'
apart.  This summer I cut the canes at the top of the trellis (5').
They
did spread laterally, but it seems most of the growth was at the top.
My
question is, how many canes would you recommend I leave on each wire for
good quality fruit?  Also is it too late to start cutting out some of
this
summers canes if there are too many, or have the fruit buds already
formed
and the damage done?  This is the first year for these Triple Crown and
they're so vigorous.

Mark
KS

----- Original Message -----
From: "Don Yellman" <don.yellman@webformation.com>
To: "North American Fruit Explorers" < nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
Sent: Wednesday, November 21, 2007 12:55 AM
Subject: [NAFEX] Trellising Triple Crown


> Mark:
>
> The solution to your cane crowding problems may be some fundamental
changes in your cultural practices with this cultivar, particularly with
respect to pruning.   The fact that this very vigorous blackberry grows
fast, with a lot of long canes, does not mean you should leave them all.
Plants should be spaced at a minimum distance of 4 feet apart under the
trellis, and 6 feet is better.  The trellis should be at least 6 feet
tall,
and preferably a little taller.  Only three horizontal wires stretched
across the trellis, spaced at roughly 18 inches apart are needed.  You
can
get by with two.  The top wire should be very close to the top bar of
the
trellis.  Individual primocanes coming up from below should be tied to
the
horizontal wires in a rough fan shape, and the main canes pinched back
when
they reach the top.  This will lead to formation of lateral canes which
are
also tied to the wires, and allowed to grow up to a length of 2-4 feet,
depending on the degree of crowding
> .  The objective is to expose all the fruiting laterals to sunlight,
> which
they will need when the time comes to produce blackberries the following
season.  Bundles of canes tied together will produce few berries of
lower
quality than fewer canes properly spaced.
>
> As you have observed, tying all the canes together, whether at the top
> of
the trellis or at any other point will result in a jumbled mess of
canes and
will not favor the production of blackberries.  If you can't spread
them out
on your trellis so that each cane is exposed to light, cut some of them
out
entirely.  Next July, when you begin picking blackberries, new
primocanes
will already be halfway up or more up the trellis.  Floricanes may be
removed anytime after the last berry has been picked, which is not a
difficult task if the trellis is not overcrowded.  Then you begin the
pinching, pruning and training cycle over again with the new primocanes.
>
> Don Yellman, Great Falls, VA
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Message: 2
Date: Wed, 21 Nov 2007 19:30:36 +0100
From: hans brinkmann < hans-brinkmann@t-online.de>
Subject: Re: [NAFEX] OT Parsnips?
To: North American Fruit Explorers <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org >
Message-ID: <4744794C.3000109@t-online.de">4744794C.3000109@t-online.de>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed




Hallo Naomi,

your very nice description made me really laughing!
Because of the big crowns you expected probably super giant parsnip -
to feed all neighbors...
Like Bill (and me) experienced:
Usually the (poor) soilstructure is responsible for many roots.

ciao
hans



Naomi schrieb:

>I am just digging up my first parsnip crop.  It looks more like science
>fiction than it does like a store parsnip.  There is a very broad (8 or 9
>inch) crown which is maybe 5 inches deep and then disintegrates into a
>twisted mass of roots suitable for late night TV SciFi movies.  What
>happened?
>Naomi
>
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------------------------------

Message: 3
Date: Wed, 21 Nov 2007 11:18:02 -0800
From: Karen Tillou <arboretum@homeorchardsociety.org>
Subject: [NAFEX] OT parsnips
To: North American Fruit Explorers <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
Message-ID:
       <ABBF323D-F82E-4CB7-9C86-6818275E23D1@homeorchardsociety.org"> ABBF323D-F82E-4CB7-9C86-6818275E23D1@homeorchardsociety.org>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

that's been my experience too - commercial root crops, esp. long ones
like parsnips and carrots, are generally grown in VERY sandy soils,
where the roots stay perfect shape, and heavy amounts of water and
fertilizers need to be added, as the sand doesn't hold on to
nutrients the way heavier, clay soils do.  try doing some double
digging, using a broadfork to break the soils up deep down next
spring, and adding lots of organic matter (every year...) to get and
keep your soils light enough to grow less-alien roots. the deeper and
fluffier you can get your soil, the better you'll do.  don't hurt
your back.

karen tillou
oregon city, OR - zone 8a and wet

On Nov 21, 2007, at 8:20 AM, William C. Garthright wrote:

I am just digging up my first parsnip crop.  It looks more like
science fiction than it does like a store parsnip.  There is a very
broad (8 or 9 inch) crown which is maybe 5 inches deep and then
disintegrates into a twisted mass of roots suitable for late night TV
SciFi movies.  What happened?



Um,... aliens?  :-)

Sorry, I couldn't resist. I don't know, but I planted carrots this year
(carrots! what was I thinking?) that ended up that way. But this was in
heavy clay soil that hadn't been worked before, and it turned into a
brick in our hot, dry summer. How is your soil there? If it's too hard,
the root might have trouble forming a nice round shape, and just expand
where it finds cracks and crevices.

Just an idea. I've never grown parsnips myself.

Bill

--
In science, 'fact' can only mean 'confirmed to such a degree that it
would be perverse to withhold provisional assent.' I suppose that apples
might start to rise tomorrow, but the possibility does not merit equal
time in physics classrooms. - Stephen Jay Gould
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End of nafex Digest, Vol 58, Issue 32
*************************************



  • Re: [NAFEX] nafex Digest, Vol 58, Issue 32, Alan Haigh, 11/21/2007

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