North American Fruit Explorers mailing list at ibiblio

["Stephen Sadler" <Docshiva@Docshiva.org>]

There is no allelopathy I know of.  How are you planning to remove the
trees?  I think your main concern is just how much root material you leave
in the soil, and how big the pieces are.  I don't think you can really get
away with just cutting the trees down - I believe you would need to pull
them, then replenish the soil with topsoil and compost.

Orchards are exchanged to improve productivity, and farmers do often
fumigate the soil between removal and replanting, but I wouldn't unless I
had a problem - even then, I'd use an organic method.  

-----Original Message-----
From: nafex-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org
[mailto:nafex-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of tanis cuff
Sent: Wednesday, December 29, 2004 1:22 PM
To: nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
Subject: RE: [NAFEX] apples after arbor vitae/oops

I should have said REMOVE the trees, not MOVE them.  It is a double row of 
trees, 45-50 years old!

----Original Message Follows----
From: "tanis cuff" <
Reply-To: North American Fruit Explorers <>
Subject: [NAFEX] apples after arbor vitae
Date: Mon, 27 Dec 2004 22:40:55 +0000

Maybe I've been staring at the computer monitor too long today, but I just 
got the idea that the next place I could plant more apple trees is where I 
almost removed a row of white cedars 10+ years ago.  If I move these trees 
this winter, how long would I wait before digging & planting apples?  How 
long before the white cedar roots break down enough so soil CAN BE dug into,

how long before decomposing roots do not tie up every bit of nitrogen, and 
how bout allelopathy?  This is a bigger project than my usual 
hobby-experiments, so I'd like your views.  (Soil is sandy, better at one 
end of the row, lighter at the other end.  Of course, the sandier part is 
farther from the water source!)

Thanks to all listers/posters for another educational year.  I hope I've 
contributed some worthwhile things too.


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