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  • From: "Richard J. Ossolinski" <osso@acadia.net>
  • To: North American Fruit Explorers <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
  • Subject: Re: [NAFEX] RE: Beautiful Fruits
  • Date: Fri, 04 Apr 2003 15:35:16 -0500

Hi, Doreen,
How could I not nominate Puget Gold?
Richard

rguy wrote:
>
> Doreen Howard" <doreenh@ticon.net> wrote:
>
> > I'm compiling a list of fruits that are
> > beautiful to look at and luscious to
> > eat--fruits that would be great to sell
> > <snip> What would you nominate, fruit lovers?
>
> I'd say Triple Crown Blackberries and any real ripe (deep orange color with
> a red blush)apricot.
>
> Robin
>From mrtejas@mailcity.com Fri Apr 4 16:39:31 2003
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This came from a Texas A&M website. Anyone done this with success?

Q: What is the correct grafting procedure for grapes and muscadines. I have
uncessfully attempted to graft cultivated varieties of both onto wild
established and vigorous rootstock in an attempt obtain productive vines
early. I normally have good success using normal grafting techniques on
plums, mayhaws, and pecans. A different technique may be needed for grapes.
Any advice or alternate source of information you can provide would be
appreciated.
A: The best way to graft grapes is to use a "T" bud. It can be used on both
old as well as young vines. The key to making the technique work is to make a
"bleed cut" about one to two inches below the "T" cut. In this way the vine
bleeds at this cut and not at the "T" above. If the vine bleeds at the "T"
cut, the bud cannot heal.
The "T" or shield bud is outlined in detail at the following site:
http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/propagation/propagation.html This
technique is best used in early to mid-spring; do not try too early though as
the sap from the vine will be excessive. You will need to cut and store buds
in January or February.




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>From lonrom@hevanet.com Fri Apr 4 16:55:04 2003
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Date: Fri, 04 Apr 2003 13:55:06 -0800
Subject: Re: [NAFEX] RE: Beautiful Fruits
From: "Lon J. Rombough" <lonrom@hevanet.com>
To: "mrtejas@lycos.com, North American Fruit Explorers"
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That's a really tricky graft as you have to have just the right conditions
to get the bud to heal without having the stock bleeding enough to push it
out. I've written about a method I use that is far more certain - grafting
dormant one bud scions to green shoots. No bleeding and the tissues of the
stock are growing actively so they heal much better.
-Lon Rombough
Grapes, writing, consulting, my book, The Grape Grower, at
http://www.bunchgrapes.com




This came from a Texas A&M website. Anyone done this with success?

Q: What is the correct grafting procedure for grapes and muscadines. I have
uncessfully attempted to graft cultivated varieties of both onto wild
established and vigorous rootstock in an attempt obtain productive vines
early. I normally have good success using normal grafting techniques on
plums, mayhaws, and pecans. A different technique may be needed for grapes.
Any advice or alternate source of information you can provide would be
appreciated.
A: The best way to graft grapes is to use a "T" bud. It can be used on both
old as well as young vines. The key to making the technique work is to make
a "bleed cut" about one to two inches below the "T" cut. In this way the
vine bleeds at this cut and not at the "T" above. If the vine bleeds at the
"T" cut, the bud cannot heal.
The "T" or shield bud is outlined in detail at the following site:
http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/propagation/propagation.html This
technique is best used in early to mid-spring; do not try too early though
as the sap from the vine will be excessive. You will need to cut and store
buds in January or February.


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<HTML>
<HEAD>
<TITLE>Re: [NAFEX] RE: Beautiful Fruits</TITLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY>
That's a really tricky graft as you have to have just the right conditions =
to get the bud to heal without having the stock bleeding enough to push it o=
ut. &nbsp;I've written about a method I use that is far more certain - graft=
ing dormant one bud scions to green shoots. &nbsp;No bleeding and the tissue=
s of the stock are growing actively so they heal much better.<BR>
-Lon Rombough<BR>
Grapes, writing, consulting, my book, <B>The Grape Grower</B>, at http://ww=
w.bunchgrapes.com<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE><BR>
</BLOCKQUOTE><BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE><TT>This came from a Texas A&amp;M website. &nbsp;Anyone done t=
his with success?<BR>
<BR>
Q: What is the correct grafting procedure for grapes and muscadines. I have=
uncessfully attempted to graft cultivated varieties of both onto wild estab=
lished and vigorous rootstock in an attempt obtain productive vines early. I=
normally have good success using normal grafting techniques on plums, mayha=
ws, and pecans. A different technique may be needed for grapes. Any advice o=
r alternate source of information you can provide would be appreciated. <BR>
A: The best way to graft grapes is to use a &quot;T&quot; bud. It can be us=
ed on both old as well as young vines. The key to making the technique work =
is to make a &quot;bleed cut&quot; about one to two inches below the &quot;T=
&quot; cut. In this way the vine bleeds at this cut and not at the &quot;T&q=
uot; above. If the vine bleeds at the &quot;T&quot; cut, the bud cannot heal=
. <BR>
The &quot;T&quot; or shield bud is outlined in detail at the following site=
: http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/propagation/propagation.html This techn=
ique is best used in early to mid-spring; do not try too early though as the=
sap from the vine will be excessive. You will need to cut and store buds in=
January or February. <BR>
</TT></BLOCKQUOTE>
</BODY>
</HTML>


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