North American Fruit Explorers mailing list at ibiblio

["Betty Mayfield" <bmayfield@columbia-center.org>]

I tend to rank crops by use--e.g. I eat tomatoes in a salad, so I consider
them a vegetable; I eat rhubarb in a pie, so it's a fruit. But I'd hate to
see anyone get picky. There isn't so much traffic on this list that we
can't branch out a little once in a while.

Betty

At 06:20 PM 4/1/2002 -0500, you wrote:
>p.s.  What is the limits of "fruit" for this forum?  Is it okay to talk
>about botanical fruits that are treated as vegetables, such as tomatoes
>and cukes?  How about botanical vegetables that are treated as fruits,
>such as rhubarb?
>
>Ginda
>
>Ginda Fisher wrote:
>> 
>> For many baby plants, the depth of the pot matters more than the width.
>> I sprouting a variety of fruits and flowers last year in various types
>> of pots.  The pansies did best in the shallow pots, mostly because those
>> were the easiest to keep damp.  (water wicked up from below for these)
>> Almost everything else did better in the deep narrow pots - the
>> difference in the tomato seedlings was stunning.  My father did a
>> similar experiment and also found that his vegetables did best in deeper
>> pots.  (He kept them all well watered.  He's more organized than I.)
>> The width of the pots seems less important.
>> 
>> I haven't experimented with trees myself, but I've read that they do
>> better in deep pots.  (The deepest tomato flats I used were designed for
>> tree seedlings)  I believe it.  I bet that the tall skinny quart
>> containers of milk would have more than enough room for a year of
>> growth.  Some pint pots would be fine, but short fat ones might not be.
>> 
>> Also, I don't have much personal experience with transplanting
>> seedlings, but I've read that newly sprouted seeds, with no true leaves,
>> can be easier to move than more mature ones.
>> 
>> I agree with Hélène that adequate light it critical.
>> 
>> Ginda Fisher
>> 
>> HDessureault wrote:
>> >
>> > Hi Del,
>> 
>> <snip>
>> 
>> > <<<<
>> > If I decide to transplant to the nursery bed in mid-June, would pint
pots be
>> > big enough for the next 2 1/2 months' growing?
>> > >>>>
>> >
>> > A friend of mine grew 5 walnut seedlings  in a 2 liter waxed milk
container
>> > for the summer and transplanted with 100 % success the following Fall.
 The
>> > answer to your question would depend on many factors. You have 5 pots
with 6
>> > seedlings in each. How deep are your pots?Can you make a hole at the
bottom
>> > and place them in a shallow container to provide constant moisture so the
>> > seedlings will not dry out, when you place them outdoors later on? Can
you
>> > go semi hydroponically by keeping your pots in a container with 2" of
water?
>> > You would have to trim back some of the wild water bound roots when you
>> > transplant, but it should work...Could you remove the bottom part of
the pot
>> > (if it was a sphaghum moss pot, for instance) and plant the whole thing
>> > undisturbed in a larger pot? I remember that the containers designed to
>> > carry seedlings for reforestation purposes are 2"x6" deep and carry 24
>> > little seedlings, I think, to a flat. Each seedling gets 2"x6" of soil
space
>> > for the first year of growth. There is a hole at the bottom and I imagine
>> > the flats are sitting in bit of water through which nutrients are
given. Can
>> > you put back the ones that have not sprouted too much back in the
fridge for
>> > another month? (Just examining possibilities to multiply chances of
>> > success...)
>> > Anyway, from what it sounds my main worry at this point would be light!
>> > Good luck.
>> > Hélène
>> 
>> 
>> ------------------LIST GUIDELINES----------------------
>> 
>> 1) Please sign your posting.  Include climate and location information
if relevent.
>> 2) Attached files will be stripped from your messages.  Post attachments
on the www.YahooGroups.com website.
>> 3) To unsubscribe send a BLANK message to
>>         nafex-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>> 4) Include only pertinent comments/questions when replying to a posting
and NOT the entire message (especially if the initial posting was large).
>> 
>> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
>
>
>
>------------------LIST GUIDELINES----------------------
>
>1) Please sign your posting.  Include climate and location information if
relevent.
>2) Attached files will be stripped from your messages.  Post attachments
on the www.YahooGroups.com website.
>3) To unsubscribe send a BLANK message to 
>        nafex-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>4) Include only pertinent comments/questions when replying to a posting
and NOT the entire message (especially if the initial posting was large). 
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ 
>
>
>

------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Sponsor ---------------------~-->
Buy Stock for $4.
No Minimums.
FREE Money 2002.
http://us.click.yahoo.com/6GDALA/VovDAA/ySSFAA/VAOolB/TM
---------------------------------------------------------------------~->





------------------LIST GUIDELINES----------------------

1) Please sign your posting.  Include climate and location information if 
relevent.
2) Attached files will be stripped from your messages.  Post attachments on 
the www.YahooGroups.com website.
3) To unsubscribe send a BLANK message to 
        nafex-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
4) Include only pertinent comments/questions when replying to a posting and 
NOT the entire message (especially if the initial posting was large). 

Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/