North American Fruit Explorers mailing list at ibiblio

["Lon J. Rombough" <lonrom@hevanet.com>]

You can remove all but about the top 4 buds, then select the two best shoots
to train horizontally from among those. Don't cut the shoots you are saving
until they are at least 18 inches beyond where the arms will end.  If it's
close to the end of summer when they reach that stage, just leave them and
prune them in winter.  If they reach that point before mid summer, cut them
off and the buds will push to make shoots that can be pruned back to
fruiting spurs when you do the dormant pruning.  Either way, you need to
remove most of the crop the following year - don't leave more than 3 or 4
clusters - or it will reduce the vigor of the vine too much.  Canadice is a
heavy producer and you have to limit the crop the first few years or it can
weaken the vine and keep it from hardening it's wood well.
-Lon Rombough
Grapes, unusual fruits, writing, consulting, more, at
http://www.hevanet.com/lonrom  See new additions to the site, Feb. 2001,
plus word on my grape book.

----------
>From: Ginda Fisher <ginda@concentric.net>
>To: nafex@yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [nafex] Spring pruning - apple and grape
>Date: Sat, Mar 17, 2001, 2:24 PM
>

>I also have a 2 year old canadice grape vine.  It is about 6' high, and
>is just one stem, which grew from near the ground last year.  (When I
>viciously removed all the other buds.)  I would like to keep it to one
>trunk, and encourage the top to spread out.  There are buds all along
>the stem - one for each or last year's leaves.  Should I remove these as
>they swell, or should I leave some leaf growth lower?  Is there anything
>else I ought to do?
>
>Thanks,
>Ginda Fisher
>Eastern Mass, zone 6

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