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  • From: "dwalsh/wchase" <>
  • To: <>
  • Subject: [nafex] grafting success/failure
  • Date: Sun, 28 May 2000 09:43:49 -0700


A couple of points from my experience:

You'll have better luck with stone fruits if you bud them in late July,
two reasons: stone fruits seem to survive better when budded and by August
shipped rootstocks have had time to acclimatize and grow and sap is in motion
you attach the new bud.

If I am grafting stone fruits, I like to collect my scionwood in January or
February. I'm in south coastal B.C. and some of the early plums have 'bud
if we have a few warm days in January and scionwood should be dormant.

You don't mention which rootstock you are using, but if it is quince for the
pears, some European pears and all Asian pears are not compatible with quince
you need an interstem (Old Home or something).
Those two hot days probably were a factor in the pear failures especially if
were in the hot sun.

I've found the best success by picking up from the grower the bare root
in mid Feb, storing them in damp sawdust until I find time to graft, grafting
March and early April, leaving them in sawdust in a carport or somewhere out
the rain and cold and sun, and planting up in one gallon pots in May. Once in
pots I put them in blocks with an irrigation system so I can counteract the
weather (water if there is no rain or if it is very hot). Sometime in June or
even July when I get time, I remove the tape. In October I plant them into

I prefer the whip and tongue method, but often my scion is much smaller than
rootstock so I do a cleft or a side graft.

Any weak rootstocks are planted in ground in May and will be budded in late
or August. Tape will be removed from the budded stocks after one month, NOT
on any longer or bud will rot in our pacific downpours.

I prefer the rolls of plastic budding tape. I use Doc Farwells to seal any
wood around the graft and the tip of the scion

It is very very important when grafting to match up at least one side of the
cambiums (?cambia) of rootstock and scion.

I think that most people make a good graft with a good match and then the
aftercare is a failure ... i.e. too hot or too cold or no water. The grafts
have to be treated with TLC for the first month or two.

Don't give up ... in a couple of years you will be responding to another
who has not had success ... with your suggestions for grafting.

Steady pouring rain here today and 10°C ... great for newly grafted trees.



Derry Walsh & Bill Chase
Aldergrove, B. C., Canada
phone/fax (604) 856-9316
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----- Original Message -----
From: john van hazinga <>
To: <>
Cc: doug clayton <>
Sent: Sunday, May 28, 2000 4:19 AM
Subject: [nafex] grafting trials

In late March I journeyed 30 miles south and spent a couple
: enjoyable hours labeling and bagging as long time NAFEX member Doug
: Clayton pruned his cherries,plums and asian pears and discoursed on their
: merits.
. The following 2
: weekends I grafted my hybrid and european plums.
. I n general I had
: very good sucesss with those potted or in the ground and less with the
: store bought rootstocks which I either potted or put in garden rows. The
: least sucess was with European pears which I happened to graft and set out
: before 2 surprising 90 deg days (probably the only we have had above 75 this
: spring.
. vann south central NH

Best friends, most artistic, class clown Find 'em here:

  • [nafex] grafting trials, john van hazinga, 05/28/2000
    • [nafex] grafting success/failure, dwalsh/wchase, 05/28/2000

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