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[important information on diamond grinding wheels]

[machinist] Diamond surface grinding wheel | PM Thread
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Diamond surface grinding wheel | PM Thread
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Thread: Diamond surface grinding wheel
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   1. 02-24-2007, 10:52 PM #1
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   I have a surface grinder that has what I think is a diamond grinding
   wheel. The wheel appears to be partially loaded with some substance that
   may be affecting it's performance. How would you true up or clean a diamond
   grinding wheel? The only name I can find on it is a diamond shape followed
   by USDW, then a bunch of letters and numbers. Thanks.

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   4. 02-24-2007, 11:55 PM #2
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   What leads you to believe it's a diamond wheel? What are you trying to
   grind on the wheel?

   Post the letters and numbers. Superabrasive wheels are not usually a
   solid wheel. They're bonded to the edge of metal, or otherwise have a thin
   layer of abrasive with a large core of nonabrasive material.

   Wheels with a normal abrasive should take the following form:
   *Prefix - Abrasive - Grit - Grade - Structure - Bond - Suffix*
   example:
   *R - A - 40 - G - 10 - V - 843*

   R is a letter the manufacturer decided to use. A is the abrasive type,
   which stands for Aluminum Oxide (C is silicon carbide). 40 is the grit size
   of the abrasive (Higher number is finer grit). G is the grade, or how
   strong the bonding agent is and how readily it will decompose (A is soft, Z
   is hard). 10 is the structure, or porosity of the wheel (1 is dense, higher
   numbers are more porous). V is the bond type, or the kind of material used
   to bond the abrasive (V is a vitrified bond, the most common kind).

   For superabrasive wheels (Diamond and CBN) the formula differs slightly:
   </font>
      - *Prefix* - Abrasive (B or D)</font>
      - *Grit*</font>
      - *Grade*</font>
      - *Abrasive concentration* - Usually from 25 to 100. Low numbers
      means low concentration of abrasives.</font>
      - *Bond*</font>
      - *Bond modification* - Sometimes the bond is modified to work better
      in a specific superabrasive application. This is manufacturer
      dependent.</font>
      - *Abrasive depth* - Thickness of the wheel's abrasive layer.
      Specified in fractional inches or mm.</font>

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   6. 02-25-2007, 12:41 AM #3
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   The wheel is only .25 wide and has a metal hub, the abrasive part is
   about .20 thick. The wheel is used to grind quartz, .003 thick, glued with
   wax into .5" long lengths. I am away from work, so I can't give you the
   numbers off the wheel. One number I found interesting though was 22 1/8.
   Written that way. I will be back to work in the AM and will check the
   numbers. Thanks. My company is really bad about documenting stuff like what
   wheel this is and where it came from. They may have had this wheel for 20
   years.

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   8. 02-25-2007, 02:12 AM #4
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   Yeah, that sounds like a diamond wheel. Glad to see you aren't trying to
   grind steel, like a lot of people try to do with diamond.

   Also, I forgot to mention. There are specific dressing sticks for
   diamond wheels. They're made of aluminum oxide or silicon nitride.

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   10. 02-25-2007, 02:26 PM #5
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   Try Nortons N 5468779 89A 1206 4A V2 for dressing and cleaning the crud
   out of diamond wheels. 1"x 1" x 6"

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   13. 02-25-2007, 02:40 PM #6
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   To put a slight hijack on the topic, I'm in the market to get a carbide
   grinder, and want a diamond wheel for it.

   How does the abrasive concentration affect performance?

   Is it strictly wear rate, or is it also cutting rate & finish quality?
   Clearly, it's about cost as well -- lower % concentration wheels are less
   expensive.

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   15. 02-25-2007, 03:52 PM #7
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   The wheel is used to grind quartz, .003 thick, glued with wax into .5"
   long lengths.
   Is it wax gummed up on the wheel? Try a good solvent to disolve the wax?
   JRouche

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   17. 02-25-2007, 04:55 PM #8
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   We used molybdenum blocks to dress diamond. If you need to do a lot of
   dressing, a brake dresser works very well. If the wheel hasn't been damaged
   and just needs cleaned up, the Norton sticks, as Arnie3 mentioned, do a
   good job.

   Kevin

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   19. 02-25-2007, 04:56 PM #9
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   The wheel has the following on it: USDW MD320 N50 BB 22 1/8 34JD-74. I
   have some dressing stones from another machine that I will try on the
   stone. I don't think the wax build up is a problem, but I might try some
   solvent on it if the dressing doesn't work.

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   22. 02-25-2007, 05:41 PM #10
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   "Fixing" a diamond wheel is a 2 step process. Dressing and conditioning.
   Dressing is getting the wheel to run true and round. Conditioning is
   getting the resin bond back far enough to let some diamond particles stick
   out far enough to do some grinding. On a surface grinder a brake dresser is
   quick and easy,the moly blocks joeby mentioned in his post work too. I use
   a lot of diamond and CBN wheels on Heald ID grinders to grind plasma spray
   on overhauled gas turbine parts. They range from 1/2" to 3" dia and when
   they get worn on the "front" blind bores get small in the bottom. Flipping
   them over sometimes works but usually I grind them straight. Mount the
   wheel in a good whirlygig on a surface grinder or between centers on a
   arbor in an OD grinder and with a 60 grit green wheel grind it straight.
   For blind bores I usually put some taper in them(.001 an inch),wet is best
   but dry will work. Carefully wrap one layer of masking tape tightly around
   the outside of the wheel and indicate it in w/n .0005. The tape will save
   your indicator points. Condition with a soft alum oxide stick or a peice of
   white wheel,just hold it against the wheel for a second or two while it is
   running. The less you "condition" the better the finish but the wheel is
   much less aggressive.

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   24. 02-25-2007, 06:15 PM #11
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   Well it looks like we are successfully grinding parts. Part of the
   problem turned out to be a sticky feed wheel. Made the feed jerky and
   destroyed the stacks of parts. Thanks for the help.

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   26. 02-26-2007, 01:51 AM #12
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   If it is running reasonably round you will be ok just forcing an
   abrasive stick or old grinding wheel into it free hand. You are flood
   cooling I assume ? Look at it with a magnifying glass. The diamons should
   have a little tail of bond behind them. Good luck.
   SM

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