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- From: Lawrence London <lfljvenaura@gmail.com>
- To: machinist@lists.ibiblio.org
- Subject: [machinist] Chuck in a chuck - Page 2
- Date: Sat, 22 Feb 2014 00:14:19 -0500
http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/general/chuck-chuck-280648/index2.html
Thread: Chuck in a chuck
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Last time I saw some one do this, it caused about $25,000 in damages to a Daywood-Puma lathe. Every piece of sheetmetal on that machine was touched by the 12" chuck that came lose from the 15" that was holding it! Just because the operator didn't follow instructions and use the proper jaws on the 15" chuck!
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I have thrown a 6" chuck doing this. No major damage but a sobering experience.
Admittedly I did several things wrong and if I'd used my brains it could probably have been done safely.
All the same I would see it as a last resort now. Once bitten... -
02-21-2014, 08:14 PM #23
- Join Date
- May 2013
- Location
- wi usa
- Posts
- 42
It will work loose over time and come flying out. Make sure it stays tight, check it in between loads!!! mine stayed in for about 70 parts and then it went on to a air born in house stunt show!!
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Airborn = bad. I'll keep an eye on it.
These little parts are dastardly. I need to fill a hole (cosmetically) and don't want to sink a bunch of time in it.... I've messed with several different solutions, involving everything from my radius turner to minor-league coining... bronze, copper, and brass... I just discovered (at the local building supply store, of all places) dimensionally correct brass rod, as in 3/8 = .375". That's the size hole I need to fill. I'm gonna try a REALLY fast feed on the crossfeed, a really pointed cutter, and see if I can put a little spiral on the face of the rod. Then part off a piece about 3/16" long. Losing 1/8" of brass in the process, lol..... I need a thinner parting tool. The damn brass rod is almost $1/foot. I guess that means my 1/8" lossage is really only .12 cents per part. Just seems wasteful to lose 1/8" material on a 3/16" long part!
I think if I succeed in the spiral, then apply a corrosive patina fluid to the thing, then sand lightly, it'll be a cool little dark-green spiral on a brass background. And maybe like one person will ever notice. -
02-21-2014, 10:09 PM #25
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We just got done living with one vehicle for a month after my teen driver wiped out my wife's RAV4. My wife has been driving my truck to work most days while I work here at the shop... she hates my truck- pretty sure she'd gladly see it gone!
Which is funny, because I love the damn thing (Tundra). Fits me like it was made for me... smooth and quiet... hauls ASS... shows how much my wife knows. -
02-21-2014, 11:05 PM #27
- Join Date
- May 2011
- Location
- Shreveport/Louisiana USA
- Posts
- 876
I run a 6" 4 jaw in a 10" 3 jaw Kitigawa.For it I have a set of dedicated soft jaws.I have a set screw in each soft jaw that screws down
into matching dimples I made in the 4 jaw to help prevent it walking out.
The other CNC has a 12" Kitigawa.
Since this 4 jaw is much bigger and was set up to run heavy parts I made an adapter bolted to the four jaw with a deep groove machined on the OD.
I have a set of soft jaws machined to fit into the groove on the adapter plate.
You have to leave one of the three jaws off and hold the 4 jaw in place while you put on the third jaw then clamp.I made it this way so
the only way that 12" chuck is gonna come out is if I rip the jaws smooth off the Kitigawa or pull the 6 bolts out the back of the 4 jaw.
I have done this many times and it still make my ass pucker till I prove the program for the first time.Even jobs I have done many times
with a proven program get much attention till the first part comes off.I really REALLY don't want a chuck sandwich.
- [machinist] Chuck in a chuck - Page 2, Lawrence London, 02/22/2014
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