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[machinist] What are you using for a rust preventative ? - Page 3
- From: Lawrence London <lfljvenaura@gmail.com>
- To: machinist@lists.ibiblio.org
- Subject: [machinist] What are you using for a rust preventative ? - Page 3
- Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2013 14:22:32 -0500
http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/general/what-you-using-rust-preventative-277300/index3.html
- Join Date
- Oct 2009
- Location
- Chandler, Arizona
- Posts
- 163
I use (clean) Ionoplus 3000 synthetic dielectric "oil" for a short term rust preventative. I haven't found anything less expensive when considering how much Ionoplus we use; we buy it by the drum. It will last for up to three months in our shop before eventually evaporating away.
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crc 3-36 is wax+ (5-15% propriatary blend) with a solvent carrier
http://www.crcindustries.com/faxdocs/msds/3006.pdf
In other words, a much more concentrated version of WD-40, without the perfume and sticky residue. I love the stuff. -
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12-26-2013, 07:22 AM #44
- Join Date
- Oct 2005
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- erie,pa
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- 2,706
Fluid film 1:1 mixed in).
You generally need a trowel to dispence it from the bucket, thin with naptha.
Cosmoline, or what I use, flashes over quickly to a "skin" in a couple of hours, so
it does not attract the dirt a simple grease/oil does. -
>From wikipedia mineral oil is "A mineral oil is any of various colorless, odorless, light mixtures of alkanes in the C15 to C40 range from a non-vegetable (mineral) source, particularly a distillate of petroleum.[1]"
Both may be petroleum distillates but each may be a mixture of a different sets of distillates. From the way they individually feel and behave, I'd be surprised if the ingredients are just more or less diluted in one product or the other.
Denis -
Are you sure paraffinic heavy distillates is mineral oil?
Both may be petroleum distillates but each may be a mixture of a different sets of distillates. From the way they individually feel and behave, I'd be surprised if the ingredients are just more or less diluted in one product or the other.
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So, my point is that the ingredient hydrocarbon chains may all be of petroleum origin in both WD-40 and in CRC 3-36 or other products, but they might be quite different sets of those chains.
It is a problem that words can have several meanings and cause confusion. A good example is the "flu" which can often be used to describe acute diarrhea and vomiting, but can also mean a respiratory illness common this time of the year. I tried to find a good definition of drug store mineral oil and found references saying that the term was not precisely defined. That could also cause some confusion.
The main point of my questioning the post #42 saying "AKA mineral oil" was to suggest caution in concluding both items had essentially the same ingredients just one form being more dilute than the other.
Denis -
As mentioned above:
Fluid Film® | Corrosion Preventative, Lubricant and Rust Inhibitor
Lanolin based (as is original cosmoline formula) Not cheap. Good stuff and versatile. Non volatile and non-toxic. Several versions available and not a nightmare to remove. Lasts about one year as vehicle under-coating or on farm implements. Awesome on snow shovels or plow blades and in blower chutes. Have switched to FF from PBlaster on plumbing tools, cutters, wrenches, pex crimpers, etc which seem to be magnets for mud & rust in crawl spaces and new construction.
Neil -
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12-26-2013, 06:24 PM #50
- Join Date
- Jan 2007
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- Pinckney Mi.
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- 2,114
JB I get what was suggested by the chemist at Corrigan Oil in Brighton Michigan.
Its labled with numbers,I spray it with one of those qt containers that I pressurize with air,I buy by the 5 gal, I am sure they peddle 55 gal. drums as well.
, its thin going on,last for a very long time,and was very reasonable in price.
I sprayed it on a 6 headed Walker Turner drill press table and assembly sitting on my car hauler
half ass covered it with cheap tarp,
it sat for over a year outside,snow,rain,90degree,90% humitity.
Worked very good, I lable it rust not on the bucket.
I use it on my brush hog, 6ft rototiller,log splitter,anything metal that sits outside.
Good chit man, never met Mr. or Mrs. Corrigan
I just buy from them.
best o luck sir
Gw -
12-26-2013, 06:25 PM #51
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I am guessing that since "mineral oil" has several different meanings and this could lead to some confusion. USP mineral oil is familiar to most as the mineral oil commonly purchased in health section of a store or pharmacy.
The main point of my questioning the post #42 saying "AKA mineral oil" was to suggest caution in concluding both items had essentially the same ingredients just one form being more dilute than the other.
"mineral oil is a liquid by-product of the distillation of petroleum to produce gasoline and other petroleum-based products from crude oil. A mineral oil in this sense is a transparent, colorless oil composed mainly of alkanes [2]and cyclic paraffins, related to petroleum jelly (also known as "white petrolatum"). It has a density of around 0.8 g/cm3."
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Sure, the point of the MSDS is to identify the chemical danger, not to disclose trade secrets. But CAS 64741088-4 is very specific: density: 0.88 0.8 g/cm3, flash point 460°F, and most importantly the specific petroleum fraction: C20-50, which are lubricating oils. USP mineral oil is the exact same petroleum-based product, it's just an FDA approved purity to be food-safe.
"mineral oil is a liquid by-product of the distillation of petroleum to produce gasoline and other petroleum-based products from crude oil. A mineral oil in this sense is a transparent, colorless oil composed mainly of alkanes [2]and cyclic paraffins, related to petroleum jelly (also known as "white petrolatum"). It has a density of around 0.8 g/cm3."
I also tried but failed to find a good specification for mineral USP. The online version of the US Pharmacopeia requires a registration/membership which perhaps you have? The cas that seems to apply is CAS 8042-47-5 but it is quite broad including a range of products.. The cas number you list above resulted in a "no results found" Google search--maybe there is a typo?
Could you tell me your references?
Denis -
12-27-2013, 01:47 AM #54
- Join Date
- Dec 2003
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- BC Canada
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- 197
Rustoleum has a product called R9 Black that sprays on and looks like a gloss black paint, but washes
off easily with mineral spirits. Good for a year outside, IIRC and you just use any spray gun. Worked
great for me, but I don't know if it is still available.
Also, I have some spray preservative from KBC under the Crown brand. Appears to be a clear wax in the usual
alchohol solvent. Reasonable in cost and I am happy with it for indoor use [never tried it outdoors.] -
an inexpensive alternative for inside use is thick chain oil diluted with solvent/acetone and applied with a brush.
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12-27-2013, 07:00 AM #56
- Join Date
- Oct 2005
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- erie,pa
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- 2,706
in any way.....acetone is quite nasty, and any painted area's or rubber fittings probaby won't stand up.
Also, if you need to ship your product to a customer, they might not like having your product
sitting on their warehouse shelf that can catch on fire !
- [machinist] What are you using for a rust preventative ? - Page 3, Lawrence London, 12/27/2013
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