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  • From: Lawrence London <lfljvenaura@gmail.com>
  • To: machinist@lists.ibiblio.org
  • Subject: [machinist] What are you using for a rust preventative ? - Page 3
  • Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2013 14:22:32 -0500

http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/general/what-you-using-rust-preventative-277300/index3.html

  1. EDM JOE is offline Aluminum
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    I use (clean) Ionoplus 3000 synthetic dielectric "oil" for a short term rust preventative. I haven't found anything less expensive when considering how much Ionoplus we use; we buy it by the drum. It will last for up to three months in our shop before eventually evaporating away.
  2. 12-24-2013, 01:11 PM #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by Heavey Metal View Post
    crc 3-36 is wax+ (5-15% propriatary blend) with a solvent carrier
    http://www.crcindustries.com/faxdocs/msds/3006.pdf
    65 - 75% "Hydrotreated light distillates" (AKA, naptha) + 15 - 25% "Solvent-refined heavy paraffinic distillates" (AKA, mineral oil) + a rust preventative.

    In other words, a much more concentrated version of WD-40, without the perfume and sticky residue. I love the stuff.
  3. 12-24-2013, 01:22 PM #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by Milacron View Post
    I had the impression that LPS3 was cosmolene....seems to smell the same anyway...maybe an aerosol spray version thinned out some ?
    I could be wrong, but LPS3 smells to me like lanolin.
  4. 12-26-2013, 07:22 AM #44
    digger doug is offline Titanium
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    Quote Originally Posted by doug8cat View Post
    Know one mentioned Cosmoline ? Is it old messy technology that just is not used anymore ? .
    I get the local oil place to make it up for me....been doing the underside of my truck with it (along with some
    Fluid film 1:1 mixed in).

    You generally need a trowel to dispence it from the bucket, thin with naptha.

    Cosmoline, or what I use, flashes over quickly to a "skin" in a couple of hours, so
    it does not attract the dirt a simple grease/oil does.
  5. 12-26-2013, 10:42 AM #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by lazlo View Post
    <> 15 - 25% "Solvent-refined heavy paraffinic distillates" (AKA, mineral oil) <>.
    Are you sure paraffinic heavy distillates is mineral oil?

    >From wikipedia mineral oil is "A mineral oil is any of various colorless, odorless, light mixtures of alkanes in the C15 to C40 range from a non-vegetable (mineral) source, particularly a distillate of petroleum.[1]"

    Both may be petroleum distillates but each may be a mixture of a different sets of distillates. From the way they individually feel and behave, I'd be surprised if the ingredients are just more or less diluted in one product or the other.

    Denis
  6. 12-26-2013, 12:24 PM #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by dgfoster View Post
    Are you sure paraffinic heavy distillates is mineral oil?

    Both may be petroleum distillates but each may be a mixture of a different sets of distillates. From the way they individually feel and behave, I'd be surprised if the ingredients are just more or less diluted in one product or the other.
    It's "Solvent-refined heavy paraffinic distillates", with a specific CAS number: 64741-88-4

  7. 12-26-2013, 03:03 PM #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by lazlo View Post
    It's "Solvent-refined heavy paraffinic distillates", with a specific CAS number: 64741-88-4

    I am guessing that since "mineral oil" has several different meanings and this could lead to some confusion. USP mineral oil is familiar to most as the mineral oil commonly purchased in health section of a store or pharmacy. It is certainly mineral in origin as opposed to coming from a soybean or a whale for example. But we all know it is of very low viscosity, transparent and odorless. On the other hand 80 wt oil is also a "mineral" oil as is road tar, common hard canning parafin, and gasoline. All come from oil pumped out of the ground (could come from coal too in some less common cases) but are each very different form each other.

    So, my point is that the ingredient hydrocarbon chains may all be of petroleum origin in both WD-40 and in CRC 3-36 or other products, but they might be quite different sets of those chains.

    It is a problem that words can have several meanings and cause confusion. A good example is the "flu" which can often be used to describe acute diarrhea and vomiting, but can also mean a respiratory illness common this time of the year. I tried to find a good definition of drug store mineral oil and found references saying that the term was not precisely defined. That could also cause some confusion.

    The main point of my questioning the post #42 saying "AKA mineral oil" was to suggest caution in concluding both items had essentially the same ingredients just one form being more dilute than the other.

    Denis
  8. 12-26-2013, 04:24 PM #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by sticks View Post
    As mentioned above:
    Fluid Film® | Corrosion Preventative, Lubricant and Rust Inhibitor
    Lanolin based (as is original cosmoline formula) Not cheap. Good stuff and versatile. Non volatile and non-toxic. Several versions available and not a nightmare to remove. Lasts about one year as vehicle under-coating or on farm implements. Awesome on snow shovels or plow blades and in blower chutes. Have switched to FF from PBlaster on plumbing tools, cutters, wrenches, pex crimpers, etc which seem to be magnets for mud & rust in crawl spaces and new construction.
    Great stuff! Comes in 3 different viscosities, the lightest being for automotive undercoating, which is also available in aerosol cans. And the maker says it's pure lanolin. Nontoxic, works and smells good. What's not to like?

    Neil
  9. 12-26-2013, 06:01 PM #49
    robmc is offline Cast Iron
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    I've used Break-Free CLP in the past and have no complaints with it's rust prevention.
  10. 12-26-2013, 06:24 PM #50
    Greg White is online now Titanium
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    JB I get what was suggested by the chemist at Corrigan Oil in Brighton Michigan.
    Its labled with numbers,I spray it with one of those qt containers that I pressurize with air,I buy by the 5 gal, I am sure they peddle 55 gal. drums as well.
    , its thin going on,last for a very long time,and was very reasonable in price.
    I sprayed it on a 6 headed Walker Turner drill press table and assembly sitting on my car hauler
    half ass covered it with cheap tarp,
    it sat for over a year outside,snow,rain,90degree,90% humitity.

    Worked very good, I lable it rust not on the bucket.
    I use it on my brush hog, 6ft rototiller,log splitter,anything metal that sits outside.
    Good chit man, never met Mr. or Mrs. Corrigan
    I just buy from them.
    best o luck sir
    Gw
  11. 12-26-2013, 06:25 PM #51
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  12. 12-26-2013, 08:33 PM #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by dgfoster View Post
    I am guessing that since "mineral oil" has several different meanings and this could lead to some confusion. USP mineral oil is familiar to most as the mineral oil commonly purchased in health section of a store or pharmacy.

    The main point of my questioning the post #42 saying "AKA mineral oil" was to suggest caution in concluding both items had essentially the same ingredients just one form being more dilute than the other.
    Sure, the point of the MSDS is to identify the chemical danger, not to disclose trade secrets. But CAS 64741088-4 is very specific: density: 0.88 0.8 g/cm3, flash point 460°F, and most importantly the specific petroleum fraction: C20-50, which are lubricating oils. USP mineral oil is the exact same petroleum-based product, it's just an FDA approved purity to be food-safe.

    "mineral oil is a liquid by-product of the distillation of petroleum to produce gasoline and other petroleum-based products from crude oil. A mineral oil in this sense is a transparent, colorless oil composed mainly of alkanes [2]and cyclic paraffins, related to petroleum jelly (also known as "white petrolatum"). It has a density of around 0.8 g/cm3."

  13. 12-26-2013, 11:02 PM #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by lazlo View Post
    Sure, the point of the MSDS is to identify the chemical danger, not to disclose trade secrets. But CAS 64741088-4 is very specific: density: 0.88 0.8 g/cm3, flash point 460°F, and most importantly the specific petroleum fraction: C20-50, which are lubricating oils. USP mineral oil is the exact same petroleum-based product, it's just an FDA approved purity to be food-safe.
    "mineral oil is a liquid by-product of the distillation of petroleum to produce gasoline and other petroleum-based products from crude oil. A mineral oil in this sense is a transparent, colorless oil composed mainly of alkanes [2]and cyclic paraffins, related to petroleum jelly (also known as "white petrolatum"). It has a density of around 0.8 g/cm3."

    You know, that is exactly the information I was trying to dig out. What you quoted above appears to be from wikipedia where they go on to say the definition of mineral oils is very imprecise. See: Mineral oil - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

    I also tried but failed to find a good specification for mineral USP. The online version of the US Pharmacopeia requires a registration/membership which perhaps you have? The cas that seems to apply is CAS 8042-47-5 but it is quite broad including a range of products.. The cas number you list above resulted in a "no results found" Google search--maybe there is a typo?

    Could you tell me your references?

    Denis
  14. 12-27-2013, 01:47 AM #54
    jim davies is offline Aluminum
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    Rustoleum has a product called R9 Black that sprays on and looks like a gloss black paint, but washes
    off easily with mineral spirits. Good for a year outside, IIRC and you just use any spray gun. Worked
    great for me, but I don't know if it is still available.

    Also, I have some spray preservative from KBC under the Crown brand. Appears to be a clear wax in the usual
    alchohol solvent. Reasonable in cost and I am happy with it for indoor use [never tried it outdoors.]
  15. 12-27-2013, 04:30 AM #55
    dian is online now Cast Iron
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    an inexpensive alternative for inside use is thick chain oil diluted with solvent/acetone and applied with a brush.
  16. 12-27-2013, 07:00 AM #56
    digger doug is offline Titanium
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    Quote Originally Posted by dian View Post
    an inexpensive alternative for inside use is thick chain oil diluted with solvent/acetone and applied with a brush.
    If your going to play chemist at home, you'd better make sure your "reicipe" doesn't harm your product
    in any way.....acetone is quite nasty, and any painted area's or rubber fittings probaby won't stand up.

    Also, if you need to ship your product to a customer, they might not like having your product
    sitting on their warehouse shelf that can catch on fire !



  • [machinist] What are you using for a rust preventative ? - Page 3, Lawrence London, 12/27/2013

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