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  • From: "Tradingpost" <tradingpost@lobo.net>
  • To: livingontheland@lists.ibiblio.org
  • Subject: [Livingontheland] She yanks their food chains
  • Date: Sat, 10 Apr 2010 20:06:02 -0600


She yanks their food chains
Scott Kraft, Los Angeles Times
http://ow.ly/1tSIu

She is known worldwide for her unbending fidelity to locally grown food and
organic agriculture. When she championed local farmers and put their names on
the menu, restaurants across the country followed. She replaced iceberg
lettuce with field greens, and shoppers flocked to farmers markets for
arugula and chicory. She insisted on grass-fed beef, and now it's on menus
everywhere.

"She has fundamentally changed how people in this country understand food,"
said Daniel Patterson, owner of Coi, one of San Francisco's culinary lights.

Why, then, does she inspire such animosity?

"Alice Waters annoys the living . . . . out of me," Anthony Bourdain, the
chef and television host, told the Washington lifestyle blog DCist.com last
year. "There's something very Khmer Rouge about Alice Waters . . . I'm
suspicious of orthodoxy when it comes to what you put in your mouth."

Carla Spartos of the New York Post called her a patron saint of the
"holier-than-thou food police" and champion of "a chiding and bourgeois brand
of junk food prohibitionism."

A blistering piece by Caitlin Flanagan in the Atlantic this year criticized
Waters' signature effort to make gardening and cooking part of school
curricula and sneered at her " 'let them eat tarte tatin' approach to the
world."

...The sine qua non of Chez Panisse is local ingredients, grown in an
environmentally sustainable way and prepared simply. Waters believes that is
a code all of America should live by.

"It's a moral issue for me," she said. "Everyone on this planet deserves to
eat food that's really nourishing and produced in a way that is fair to the
people who produce it."

..."We have to get over the idea that food should be cheap," Waters said.
"The people who take care of our farms are treasures. And in terms of the
damage to our health, our culture and our planet, that extra cost is nothing."
(April 2, 2010)




  • [Livingontheland] She yanks their food chains, Tradingpost, 04/10/2010

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