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  • From: "Tradingpost" <tradingpost@lobo.net>
  • To: tradingpost@lobo.net, livingontheland@lists.ibiblio.org, sweetspringfarm@gmail.com
  • Subject: [Livingontheland] ALL ABOUT JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES
  • Date: Thu, 21 Aug 2008 02:32:33 -0600


http://www.samcooks.com/relish/jerusalem_artichokes.htm

Stored in plastic bags they will keep a week or more in the refrigerator.
Jerusalem artichokes that have been cold-stored for a month or more (in the
ground or under refrigeration) will have less gas than ones purchased earlier
in the season.



ALL ABOUT JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES


With recipes for
Jerusalem Artichoke Gratin
Chicken Salad with Jerusalem Artichokes
Roasted Jerusalem Artichokes
Jerusalem Artichoke and Carrot Salad

Recipes History Where grown
Their varieties Their seasons Selection, handling and storage
Nutrition Yield Preparation


When I asked the clerk in the produce section of a local supermarket
where the Jerusalem artichokes were, he said, "The artichokes are over there,
but I have no idea where they came from."

Such is the problem with the misnamed Jerusalem artichoke. Producers of
this tuber have tried to overcome the confusion by advertising the product as
the sunchoke. On one-pound trays from Frieda's, the Los Angeles specialty
produce company, the word Sunchokes stands out in bold letters on a green
banner. But underneath that word in less prominent type are the sunchoke
aliases: Jerusalem artichokes and topinambours.

And it doesn't stop there. The Jerusalem artichoke is also called
girasole and Racine de Tournesol. But not until very recently was it called
Sun Roots, which was the name originally given to the tuber by North American
Indians, according to Elizabeth Schneider's superb "Uncommon Fruits and
Vegetables, A Commonsense Guide" (Perennial Library, 1989).

The prevailing opinion has been that the term Jerusalem artichoke is a
corruption of girasole articiocco, meaning "sunflower artichoke" a name which
was given to the vegetable by the Italians. However, according to "The
Curious Cook" by Harold McGee (North Point Press, 1990), there is evidence
that it is instead an English corruption of the Dutch word Terneuzen, the
name of a city in the Netherlands where the tuber was grown. It has nothing
to do with Jerusalem, although apparently some do grow there.

As for Topinambours, that name came about because a Brazilian Indian
tribe called Topinamboux happened to be in Paris about the same time
Jerusalem artichokes (or whatever) were arriving. Somehow, street vendors who
sold the chokes thought the name was Topinamboux was catchy and stuck it on
the tubers, which is a little like giving Florida grapefruit that is sold in
Moscow the name Miami Dolphins.

It's not clear why the "x" at the end of the name became an "r." If only
we had stuck with the original Indian name, we would have saved a lot of
confusion. And we'd be correct. The botanical name of the Jerusalem artichoke
is Helianthus tuberosus, meaning that it is from the sunflower family (which
it is) and that it's a root (two for two).

I think Jerusalem artichokes look like knobs of fresh ginger. But there
is no evidence that anyone else has agreed with me and has given them yet
another erroneous name.

HISTORY

Jerusalem artichokes were part of the cornucopia found by Europeans when
they began exploring and settling the New World. The French explorer Samuel
de Champlain came upon the tuber in 1605 on Cape Cod while it was being grown
by the Eastern Abenaki Indians. According to "The Curious Cook," Champlain
described the taste as similar to cardoons, a relative of the globe
artichoke. Elizabeth Schneider recounts that Champlain likened the taste to
an artichoke or artichoke heart. So here may be the first whiff of name
controversy and confusion.

Regardless, the Jerusalem artichoke soon made its way back to France and
just as quickly over to Italy. It was a hot item in both places for a while,
but it soon went out of favor and eventually was used for livestock feed. The
English also took to the Jerusalem artichoke and just as quickly rejected it,
in large part because it multiplied like kudzu.

McGee posits two reasons why the Jerusalem artichoke didn't make it as
big as the potato, for example. (Canadian potato was yet another moniker
given to this vegetable.) First, its flavor is more distinctive than the more
neutral potato, relegating it for occasional rather than every day use.
Second, and perhaps more important, Jerusalem artichokes cause huge amounts
of gas.

WHERE GROWN

Jerusalem artichokes like cool growing climates. The primary growing
areas are Central California, Washington and Minnesota.

VARIETIES

There are two varieties. The western Jerusalem artichoke is beige and
mostly round. The Midwestern or northeastern type is longer and knobbier with
a reddish exterior. Both varieties are the same inside.The Jerusalem
artichoke looks like a nubby new potato. Inside the dusty brown skin is a
creamy white, crisp and sweet interior with a taste that is very much like a
water chestnut or perhaps a jicama. (Others liken it to artichoke hearts and
salsify.)

Sometimes Jerusalem artichokes are confused with tiny Chinese artichokes
which are imported from France. But they are not the same vegetable.

SEASONS

Technically Jerusalem artichokes are available all year but late spring
and summer availability can be spotty. The best time for Jerusalem artichokes
is fall and winter. According to "The Essential Root Vegetable Cookbook" by
Sally and Martin Stone (Potter, 1991) in areas of the northeast and Midwest,
some of the tubers are left in the ground over the winter to be harvested in
early spring. The later ones are sweeter, say the Stones. Others disagree,
claiming the fall and winter-picked Jerusalem artichokes are best.

SELECTION, HANDLING & STORAGE

When selecting, choose Jerusalem artichokes that are evenly sized for
easier handling. (Though that may be difficult because Jerusalem artichokes
are often packaged, and just as often with sizes ranging from that of a golf
ball to a knob of ginger.) It should be firm with no wrinkles, green spots,
blotches or sprouting. However, protrusions and unevenness on the skin is
perfectly fine.

Stored in plastic bags they will keep a week or more in the refrigerator.
Jerusalem artichokes that have been cold-stored for a month or more (in the
ground or under refrigeration) will have less gas than ones purchased earlier
in the season.

NUTRITION

The Jerusalem artichoke is not exactly a nutritional powerhouse, but it
does have two important features. One is that it is low in calories with only
35 per 100 grams (about 3.5 ounces). That, and its sweet crunchiness makes
the Jerusalem artichoke a good, low-fat snack for kids and adults alike.

For vegetarians the good news is that Jerusalem artichokes are a good
source of iron, with 3.4 mg per serving. That's more than lean ground beef
and about 19% of the RDA for iron. A serving also contains 2.3 grams of
protein, .1 grams of fat, 16.7 grams of carbohydrates, .8 grams of dietary
fiber and 6% of the RDA for vitamin C.

YIELD

Figure on three or four servings per pound, depending on how much peeling
or cleaning is needed and the nature of the dish. One pound yields about 2
cups, sliced or chopped.

PREPARATION

The major decision to be made when preparing Jerusalem artichokes is
which weapon to choose, the scrub brush or the peeler. Scrubbing removes dirt
and grit but not all the skin. And it requires some elbow grease. Peeling
does remove what some consider the less-than-esthetic skin but small pieces
are a chore and scrapes are not uncommon. Pick your poison.

Jerusalem artichokes are extremely versatile because they can be used raw
or cooked, whole, diced, sliced or julienned. Try adding them to a roast as
you would potatoes or carrots. Or just roast them as you would potatoes for a
side dish.

They can be cooked in soups, stews, gratins, or purees with other root
vegetables such as potatoes or fennel. They are excellent in stir frys, as a
substitute for water chestnuts or as just part of the melange to add
sweetness and crunch. Raw Jerusalem artichokes make a refreshing addition to
tuna, chicken, or tossed salads. (They won't turn color if cut with a
stainless steel knife.) Jerusalem artichokes are also perfect candidates for
pickling.

JERUSALEM ARTICHOKE GRATIN

This hearty side dish looks a lot richer than it really is. It makes a good
accompaniment to roasts and other meats.

* 1 tablespoon butter
* 1 shallot, minced
* 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
* 2 cups hot skim milk
* 1/2 teaspoon each, grated nutmeg and powdered ginger
* Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
* Butter flavor spray
* 1 pound Jerusalem artichokes, scrubbed or peeled and cut into very thin
slices
* 1 pound sweet potatoes, cut into 1/4-inch thick slices
* 1/2 cup shredded low-fat Jarlsberg cheese
* 1/3 cup bread crumbs
* 2 tablespoons chopped parsley

1) Put butter in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add shallots and cook
until soft, a few minutes. Add flour and stir until well incorporated. Add
milk and whisk until mixture thickens and is smooth with no flour taste,
about 5 minutes. Season with nutmeg, ginger, salt and pepper.

2) Preheat oven to 350. Spray a 2-quart gratin dish with butter-flavor spray.
Alternately layer Jerusalem artichokes and sweet potatoes, seasoning each
lightly with salt and pepper.

3) Pour cream sauce over, cover with foil and bake about 55 minutes until
vegetables are tender. Raise heat to 500. Mix cheese with bread crumbs and
parsley. Remove foil, sprinkle gratin with cheese mixture and spray with
butter-flavor spray. Return to the oven and bake until top is nicely browned
and crusty, 5 to 10 minutes.

Serves 6 to 8.

Sam's Cooking Tip: Jarlsberg Lite is one of the better low-fat cheeses, a
good Swiss-style cheese substitute.

CHICKEN SALAD WITH JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES

This dish livens up plain boneless and skinless chicken breasts. It's also a
good way to use up leftovers from a holiday turkey.

* 1/4 cup low-fat mayonnaise
* 1/3 cup non-fat sour cream or yogurt
* 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
* Juice of 1 lime
* 1/4 cup chopped cilantro
* Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
* 1 pound Jerusalem artichokes, scrubbed or peeled
* 1 pound cooked skinless chicken or turkey breast cut into 1/2-inch cubes
* 1 red bell pepper, chopped
* 1 teaspoon minced jalapeno or other hot pepper
* 1 bunch scallions, trimmed (white and 1 inch of green) and cut into
thin slices

1. Mix first seven ingredients in a small bowl. Set aside.
2. Cut Jerusalem artichokes into a combination of very thin slices and
11/2-inch match sticks. Combine Jerusalem artichokes, chicken, peppers and
scallions in a bowl. Season with salt and pepper.
3. Add dressing and mix well. Refrigerate at least one hour before
serving. Bring to room temperature for serving

Serves 6.

ROASTED JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES

Cooked this way, Jerusalem artichokes taste like a cross between turnips and
potatoes.

* 4 cloves garlic, smashed, then chopped
* 2 1/2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
* 1 1/2 pounds Jerusalem artichokes
* Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
* 1 tablespoon chopped parsley

1. Preheat oven to 500 degrees. Put garlic and oil in microwave-safe dish.
Cover with a paper towel and cook at half pour for 2 minutes (3 if a
low-wattage oven). Set aside.
2. Peel Jerusalem artichokes and cut into the size of golf balls. Put in a
shallow roasting pan large enough to hold all in one layer comfortably.
Strain out garlic from oil over the chokes. Add salt and pepper and toss.
3. Cook about 20 minutes (tossing once or twice) or until tender.

Serves 4.

JERUSALEM ARTICHOKE AND CARROT SALAD

This dish emphasizes the crunchy sweetness of Jerusalem artichokes.

* 1 pound Jerusalem artichokes, peeled or well scrubbed
* 1 pound carrots, peeled or well scrubbed and trimmed
* 1/4 cup chopped chives
* 2 tablespoons chopped dill
* 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
* 3 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
* Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
* 2 tablespoons capers

1. Use the slicing attachment of a food processor to thinly slice the
chokes. Then stack the halves and cut julienne. Put the shredding attachment
on the food processor and grate the carrots. (An alternative is to slice the
chokes by hand and use a hand grater for the carrots.) Put vegetables into a
mixing bowl with chives and dill.
2. Mix remaining ingredients in a cup. Add to vegetables and toss.
3. Let sit 30 minutes before serving.

Serves 6 to 8





  • [Livingontheland] ALL ABOUT JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES, Tradingpost, 08/21/2008

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